That’s a cool house, it’s like a play house duplex 
Looks maybe 6x6 inside, so 36sq/ft which is more than enough coop space for the 6 and a nest box somewhere inside. If you're cutting a chicken door into the front under the window, maybe add ventilation up higher on the opposite wall/back wall for cross ventilation; you also still have the other two windows for air.
What shape will the run be when you mentioned 4ft x 16ft? Are you using the depth of the structure too? I would try to maybe add the fencing between the human door and window/chicken door, coming out around 4ft toward the camera, then add your 16ft beyond the end of the building to the right. If using that building's ~6ft depth that would give you a nice size run around 10x16, plus the space in front of the coop around 4x4. That's near 30sq/ft for each of the 6 chickens - plenty of space to be very comfortable and not overcrowded; personally I think the minimum requirement of 10sq/ft per bird run space is quite cramped (I sized my stuff based on 30-40sq/ft each so nobody picks on one another)
I’d make run tall enough to stand inside, even if it cost more in buying another roll of fencing and a few more stick of lumber, it’s worth it IMO. If you fully fenced the run for predators, you won't be able to use the above space anyway, so might as well make it tall enough to go inside. Definitely use hardware cloth, at least for the bottom perimeter and anti-dig apron. Welded wire for the rest is a good choice for strength, but hardware cloth everywhere will keep pretty much everything small like rats or snakes out; I used chicken wire for my overhead only because I had a roll I was never going to use, it's fairly strong IMO, only the largest predators could get through it unless it's old and rusty (Just yesterday I was removing the chicken wire from the bottom of our rabbit tractor, which has been in ground contact for 3yrs and it was VERY hard for me to try and bust off by hand or even by kicking it - I still had to use dykes to remove all my fastened areas)
If you get real weather or have a lot of sun exposure, I’d consider some solid roof on part of the run, but that may add complications to the design.
Good luck!

Looks maybe 6x6 inside, so 36sq/ft which is more than enough coop space for the 6 and a nest box somewhere inside. If you're cutting a chicken door into the front under the window, maybe add ventilation up higher on the opposite wall/back wall for cross ventilation; you also still have the other two windows for air.
What shape will the run be when you mentioned 4ft x 16ft? Are you using the depth of the structure too? I would try to maybe add the fencing between the human door and window/chicken door, coming out around 4ft toward the camera, then add your 16ft beyond the end of the building to the right. If using that building's ~6ft depth that would give you a nice size run around 10x16, plus the space in front of the coop around 4x4. That's near 30sq/ft for each of the 6 chickens - plenty of space to be very comfortable and not overcrowded; personally I think the minimum requirement of 10sq/ft per bird run space is quite cramped (I sized my stuff based on 30-40sq/ft each so nobody picks on one another)
I’d make run tall enough to stand inside, even if it cost more in buying another roll of fencing and a few more stick of lumber, it’s worth it IMO. If you fully fenced the run for predators, you won't be able to use the above space anyway, so might as well make it tall enough to go inside. Definitely use hardware cloth, at least for the bottom perimeter and anti-dig apron. Welded wire for the rest is a good choice for strength, but hardware cloth everywhere will keep pretty much everything small like rats or snakes out; I used chicken wire for my overhead only because I had a roll I was never going to use, it's fairly strong IMO, only the largest predators could get through it unless it's old and rusty (Just yesterday I was removing the chicken wire from the bottom of our rabbit tractor, which has been in ground contact for 3yrs and it was VERY hard for me to try and bust off by hand or even by kicking it - I still had to use dykes to remove all my fastened areas)
If you get real weather or have a lot of sun exposure, I’d consider some solid roof on part of the run, but that may add complications to the design.
Good luck!