What type of fencing is best for goats?

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I think people are confusing welded wire with woven wire. Welded wire is really not suitable for large areas. Perhaps for working facilities & corrals you can make the argument. But as far as a per LF basis goes, woven wire compares well.

Going all high tensile will be the cheapest; but motivated goats will slide between teh wires if startled or ornery.
 
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wouldnt they just eat this?

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I think people are confusing welded wire with woven wire. Welded wire is really not suitable for large areas. Perhaps for working facilities & corrals you can make the argument. But as far as a per LF basis goes, woven wire compares well.

Going all high tensile will be the cheapest; but motivated goats will slide between teh wires if startled or ornery.

Possibly so, when I am talking about welded wire it is the 14 gauge type on the 50 or 100 foot rolls. Not the welded carrel panels that are far better than any other, but far more in price as well. The goat wire is woven 4*4 squares in the 12.5 gauge that comes in the 330 foot rolls and is 4 foot tall. Price is a concern as with everything, but safety is as more important to a price if that makes any cents. Pun intended
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The "goat" woven wire comes in a lot of different heights and grid sizes. You'll notice on them that the openings are smaller towards the bottom. They also come in strange heights, since they are most commonly used with a high tensile hotwire along the top. The 330' rolls come in 39", 26", 50", 58", etc.

In my climate, the woven wire does make most sense. Our spring flush creates canary grass which grows to 6'+ in less tham a month. It kills any system relying on hot wires solely. So having the added benefit of the woven wire beneaht the hot wires is truly a barrier.

Then I drive through Nevada and see mile after mile of dry lots where weed growth is never an issue. Their needs would be entirely different from mine.
 
The woven wire is what I was talking about. You can also use the 39" with 7' T-post driven in 1 ft. Then stack the wire overlapping about 4" using those hog type c clamps that you squeeze closed. I used that setup on my backyard with the dgs. One of them is a dane/retreiver and used to be able to clear a 5' fence. Then run a hot wire on top if you feel the need. Yes the horse fencing is expensive but is real nice. Fencing is the reason we don't have goats for weed control. They just walk right through the barb wire fence, which is all we could afford to fence our property. Keeps the kids in though.
 
I am using 50" woven goat fence with out a hot wire and one of my cashmeres (a doe) can get over it. I just bought a fence controller! The 4x4 goat fence is good, but the kids get their heads stuck in that, so you have to keep an eye on them or build a place special for kids if you don't disbud. If you are wanting milk and meat, try to find nubian/boer crosses. It may take a while to find the right cross, but they are pretty and useful. I have two right now that are just coming into heat for the first time and am hoping that they will produce good milk and any baby boys will produce good meat!
 
Having built a lot of fences for goats. This was my hard and fast rule. I would build the fence around the enclosure. I would then set up a line from my irrigation well and pump the enclosure full of water. If it leaked it would not contain a goat until the leaks were fixed.
 
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