When to worm

[hens4chri]

I've had chickens before and never wormed. We had a small backyard flock of 9 and didn't know a thing about BYC.
We hope to have a flock of about 24 hens this year. They have 2 acres to graze at will and I'm wondering how we know when to worm? I've read how to identify worms in the poop, but for flock maintenance, do you do this annually, or can I use home remedies like garlic and or cider vinegar to prevent it and only treat if we have evidence?
Thanks

 

[jk47]

I worm new pullets a few months before they start laying with wazine
Then I worm once a year in spring
With rooster booster wormer

 

[aart]

I would not treat unless I had evidence via a fecal exam done by someone with poultry experience....
.....most worms cannot be seen in feces with the naked eye. Garlic and ACV are not necessarily effective deterrents.

Can depend on where you live if you will need to do regular worming with a carefully chosen chemical and timing regime so as not to cause resistance.

 

[TwoCrows]

Hello and welcome to BYC!

Roundworms exist in all soil all over the world, grasshoppers, flies, ants, all those tasty buggies carry parasites that your chickens will contract after eating them. Even the local wildlife carry parasites...rabbits, deer, coons, etc...

It is best to have some poop tested at you local vets office, (any vet can do this) so you know what you are dealing with, I have never had this done. But I do have lots if wildlife and bugs that are carrying these parasites. If you live in an area that does not see deep winter freezing, the chances are much greater you will have more parasites year round, them not being killed off during the winter. Wet humid areas of the world are far greater at risk of parasites.

I worm 2 times a year regardless, alternating Wazine, Safeguard Liquid Goat Wormer or Valbazen. Alternating the meds keeps worms from worms becoming immune to the drugs.

Unfortunately, natural cures rarely repel worms and certainly will not take care of an infestation. Worms are nothing to ignore or mess around with, they are killers of poultry. Healthy birds do develope some ability to control them, but if the birds become overwhelmed, they are unable to deal with them.

 

[lazy gardener]

There are 3 schools of thought regarding internal parasites:

1. A flock with strong immunity will have minimal parasite load. Any birds with a larger load are weaker flock members, and should be culled. Parasites are not an abnormal finding, and a minimal load is acceptable. A free range flock will self medicate with the many plants and herbs that are available. The flockster who has this natural approach will often plant some herbs that are known to be natural helminthicides. An other natural apporach is the use of mild soaps like Basic H. Many old time farmers use this with all of their livestock. The beauty of soap to kill worms is that it kills them by breaking down their waxy skin, and they are not able to grow immune to it.

2. Don't treat unless you see visible worms. Or, unless a fecal float test indicates a worm load severe enough to warrant treatment.

3. Treat several times a year with a specific treatment plan which may include alternating medications.

As you figure, I'm of the #1 school of thought. My flock has never been wormed, nor have I seen any signs of worms. Bee Kissed keeps a natural flock as well. When she processes birds every year, she does an autopsy inspection, and does not find any worms.

 

[hens4chri]

There are 3 schools of thought regarding internal parasites:

1. A flock with strong immunity will have minimal parasite load. Any birds with a larger load are weaker flock members, and should be culled. Parasites are not an abnormal finding, and a minimal load is acceptable. A free range flock will self medicate with the many plants and herbs that are available. The flockster who has this natural approach will often plant some herbs that are known to be natural helminthicides. An other natural apporach is the use of mild soaps like Basic H. Many old time farmers use this with all of their livestock. The beauty of soap to kill worms is that it kills them by breaking down their waxy skin, and they are not able to grow immune to it.

2. Don't treat unless you see visible worms. Or, unless a fecal float test indicates a worm load severe enough to warrant treatment.

3. Treat several times a year with a specific treatment plan which may include alternating medications.

As you figure, I'm of the #1 school of thought. My flock has never been wormed, nor have I seen any signs of worms. Bee Kissed keeps a natural flock as well. When she processes birds every year, she does an autopsy inspection, and does not find any worms.

Your philosophy sounds like what I would naturally be inclined to. Thanks

 

[2oldnow]

Yes X2 Thank you.