Woods Open Air Coop Design - Amish Built

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

A few updates pictures, delivery should be in less than 2 weeks which is perfect timing as we are adding a few pullets to our flock I can’t wait!!!!

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

Well....the baby chicks came before the coop so we had to improvise. So in love with our new additions!!!

 

[Molpet]

View attachment 1325106 View attachment 1325107 It’s finally here!! They drove through some very heavy rains and crazy winds to get it here so it needs some cleanup but my gosh it’s gorgeous! The trailer they brought it on was like something out of a transformers movie, they were able to place it just where we wanted it...which I certainly didn’t think would be easy. I tried to post a video but it said it was too large, it really was so cool to see!

So nice

Put the video on utube and Link it here

 

[ScottandSam]

I'm not sure what their beliefs are or what sect they are from, I didn't ask them. They do often work with non Amish foremen of sorts to get jobs outside of their communities. The plans I provided them are directly from the book written by Prince T Woods. I purchased a hard copy on Amazon however I've seen links to the pdf version too. In addition to the book I gave them my notes and preferences based on what I learned from reading JackE's post and wthrlady's as well. If you would like to see my notes I'm happy to share.
Apparently several people have stopped to see my coop being built and they all want one now, I warned them this would happen

I would like to see your notes.
Scott

 

[Howard E]

To Scott or anyone wondering about this style of house......I suggest you get the book:

http://www.nortoncreekpress.com/wordpress/poultry/fresh_air_poultry_houses_a/

BTW, modern era publisher is Robert P, a BYC member and sometimes poster.

In addition to the Woods house, the book also shows several other adaptions of open sided fresh air houses, that may be better suited to your intended use. Houses for breeding pens, growing pens, etc. Some as small as 2' x 3'.

Also, if you think back to that Woods mini thing we worked on last year, there was a simple open front shed style alternative we discussed that would be 4' wide x 8' deep. Perhaps a few of those would be a better fit?

 

[JackE]

I'm planning on the 6' x 10' version of the Woods' coop. How big should my side windows be do you think?

With a 6X10' coop, the front section of the coop is going to be around 4' deep. So you could probably use 24", or so, square windows. What you are looking for, is when you slide the windows open in the warmer months, they will be totally out of the window frame. Or, you could hinge them at the top, to swing in. Then you could hook or latch them to the ceiling.

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

Update...with all the modifications I asked for it was more cost effective for them to sell the one they built as is and start mine over from scratch. I’m beyond excited and just need to make sure I include every little thing I wanted this time. They have had several people stop to look at the coop and order one for themselves, I told them this would happen!

 

[Howard E]

It is possible you did your Amish guys a real favor. While they are really good craftsmen, and while it is assumed they know what to build, its also possible they didn't have any better idea on what a small flock coop should look like anymore than all the rest of the folks building these small flock barns. Coops that are long on "cute" and short on functional attributes that allow them to perform at their optimum, built that way for no other reason than the belief that "cute" is what would sell.

With your help, they now know what to build along with how to build it. Hopefully, word will spread throughout the land and they will all start building Woods coops.

BTW, when I was building my 8' x 12' Woods house, I kept loose track of how much it cost, and it was somewhere around $1,000 for materials. Double that if profit and labor were included.

So for about $2,000, you could have a house fit for about 24 birds.

 

[WthrLady]

My windows are the replacement variety from the local hardware store. You simply cut a hole in the wall set the window in the hole and screw in. I attached mine from outside. In the groove normally meant for J channel and siding I tucked the hardware cloth around this edge and then slid 1x3 wood trim in the slot, securing the cloth.

I completely removed the window screen as it is not needed.

OH and my nest box is one of those assemble it yourself cube storage units. The larger size, 12x12 inch cubbies, threshold brand from Target. I didn't use the cardboard back in the kit, but used heavy plywood. I simply screwed it to the wall. I did add a piece of 1x3 wood across the fronts and built a fly up perch. It cleans really easily and wears like iron. Mine was on sale for 29.99 and has 6 cubbies.

 

[Howard E]

If this is to be 8.5' x 14', then height to top of monitor should also be 8.5'.

14' / 1.6 = 8.75' (but 8'6" is as good as 8'9"). Remember, to the extent possible, back part is a square.......and height of monitor framing is the same height as it is deep and wide.

As for height of back wall, roof slope should be 5" rise per 12" run.......so 8.5' x 5 = 42.5"

Then (8.5' x 12") = 102".......minus 42.5" = 59.5"........so basically 60" or 5 feet. So you nailed that part! (assuming height of monitor being 8.5').

Roost bars (I'd have at least 2.....)...2" x 3" ok, but NARROW side up and both at the same level........NOT staggered!

On the monitor window locks.....instead of the piece of steel shown in the book, I plan to screw door hinges to the bottom of the window frame. The kind with rectangle on one end and long strap on the other. Two of them per window frame. These hinges include screw holes.....so to open, push window out, rotate hinge down so screw hole in hinge lines up with nail head and drop it into place. Should hold it open even during high wind events. To close, rotate hinge up and out of the way. Then use either a sliding bolt latch or screen door hook and loop to hold windows shut (all from the inside).

Inside screened windows should be allowed to rotate all the way up and out of the way (hook them to the rafters) when the regular windows are closed. To hold screen windows down and in place with regular windows are open, use a small block of wood with screw through the center and just rotate it 90 degrees to hold windows down shut.