Woods question - again :)

[aart]

have thought about you fighting with that wire in your soffits a few times. The idea of having to lay that stuff out upside down makes me want to cry.

The soffits were easy as my daughter was here to help
tho that had it's own trials

But the ceiling of the coop inside was a bit of a nightmare, tho I was so determined that I fingered it out.

My best advice for HC, lay it out on a hard flat surface, my garage floor worked very well.
Cut to size and bend if needed there then carry the pieces out and install them.
Gloves, gallon jugs of water for weights, and knee pads are all a must.

Hang in there...You can DO IT!!

 

[MiaS]

Well it seems that my monitor windows just fit. I still wish now that I’d shuffled the whole thing up a bit but all components seem to fit and function so I’m pretty happy with that

 

[Ted Brown]

Curious why you have an overhang on one side only? I assume you wanted some protection from rain over the entrance but why not go for symmetry?

Looks like the lower roof and monitor window worked out just fine!

 

[MiaS]

Curious why you have an overhang on one side only? I assume you wanted some protection from rain over the entrance but why not go for symmetry?

Looks like the lower roof and monitor window worked out just fine!

Correct, I wanted some protection for the sides of the building, but I wanted to carry the roof line directly off of the west side of the coop. Right now it looks pretty odd but hopefully once the metal roof goes on the run to the left it will look less lop-sided. I sure hope so anyway because it is bugging me a bit

 

[Ted Brown]

... once the metal roof goes on the run to the left it will look less lop-sided.

Until you said I did not think of the run having a roof, that will change the dynamic of the coop entirely as the whole roof line will blend together. Pretty sweet setup!

 

[aart]

because it is bugging me a bit

It's bugging me too

So you'll have purlins on top of run rafters, that will match roof plane of coop, then contiguous metal roofing over everything?

Am so glad the windows fit!

 

[Ted Brown]

@MiaS I hesitated before because I do not want to come across as critical but many others read this forum. Apologies!

When one uses metal roofing the screws should be on top of the highest profile curves. The reason is to avoid leaks (water runs down the lowest portions of the panels and not along the ridges.) and also to lock the sheets together so that wind does not catch and lift the panel. I believe that manufacturer recommendation is each row of screws are to be 16" apart.

DO NOT CHANGE it now but I would add screws where the panels overlap. An easy way is to hold the screw in place and bang it will the bottom of your driver (you want a simple dent) then screw it in. If leaks develop in ten years or so simply replace the screws, the rubber washers deteriorate in the sun so new screws will resolve the problem for another decade or more.

 

[MiaS]

It's bugging me too

So you'll have purlins on top of run rafters, that will match roof plane of coop, then contiguous metal roofing over everything?

Am so glad the windows fit!

Yes, more or less. Purlins on top of run walls, strapping and metal roof to run continuous with the roof of the coop. The only thing that may still make it lop-sided is that I'm not planning on a fascia board for the run...I considered leaving it off of the coop but now it is there so I think it is staying. I could run fascia across the rafters but I'd rather not if possible.

 

[MiaS]

@MiaS I hesitated before because I do not want to come across as critical but many others read this forum. Apologies!

When one uses metal roofing the screws should be on top of the highest profile curves. The reason is to avoid leaks (water runs down the lowest portions of the panels and not along the ridges.) and also to lock the sheets together so that wind does not catch and lift the panel.

DO NOT CHANGE it now but I would add screws where the panels overlap. An easy way is to hold the screw in place and bang it will the bottom of your driver (you want a simple dent) then screw it in. If leaks develop in ten years or so simply replace the screws, the rubber washers deteriorate in the sun so new screws will resolve the problem for another decade or more.

My manufacturer instructs to run the screws beside the ridges and does not supply stitch screws for the ridge tops. They do however suggest sealant along the seams at a certain pitch so we will go back and do that (I'm still waiting on gable ends and some closures but wanted to at least get my sheathing seams covered in case it rains.

I don't mind the criticism

 

[aart]

Yes, more or less. Purlins on top of run walls, strapping and metal roof to run continuous with the roof of the coop. The only thing that may still make it lop-sided is that I'm not planning on a fascia board for the run...I considered leaving it off of the coop but now it is there so I think it is staying. I could run fascia across the rafters but I'd rather not if possible.

Purlins would run perpendicular on top of run rafters, metal roof attached to purlins.
Not sure about fascia on run...could add it later for 'looks' and/or to support edge or run roofing metal overhang.