Reviews by 007Sean

The author should have referred to the various quails as 'species' not as breeds...there are no breeds of quail, unlike chickens that are known by the 'breeds'. Also, the blanket statement referring to their eggs as having 'spots', not all quail eggs have spots, Bobwhite eggs are solid white, Gamble, Valley and Blue Scale have cream colored eggs with tiny spots to medium spots. Coturnix have eggs with various sized splotches of brown to black colorization.

Another point is in protein percent of feed. Adult quail need a higher percent 'maintenance' feed, 16 to 18% protein is not adequate for adult birds. A minimum of 20% to 24% protein is a better choice to provide adequate protein for adult birds. A higher percent protein feed is also recommended for hatchlings and for young chick's, 28 to 30% protein is needed to provide optimum growth weights.

Would like to see more pics of the building of the tractor, materials list, and any details of why you decided to build it the way you did?...available materials, ease of construction, etc.

Nice build, excellent example of using an existing structure incorporated into the build.

Well thought out, everything you need if no vet is available.

Very informative, well written and easy to understand.

Very well written, excellent source of information. The only thing I can think of to add is, Bob's, Blues, Gambles, Valleys and Mountain quail can be raised in large aviaries. They don't need to be seperated during breeding season if the enclosure is large and proper habitat is provided...but for the purpose of this article it is best for someone who has no knowledge of quail, to follow the author's advice.
Good job Leyla!

Well written and illustrated. Easy to follow instructions.

The author is assuming that everyone knows how to setup a brooder. More 'how to' would do the article a great value. I brood my birds in a similar setup. I use heat lamps, netting over the top of the brooder to keep the chicks from flying out after about a week of age.

The lamp (non teflon coated)needs to be set at a height that will result in a temperature of 95°F at the floor of the brooder. The lamp should be adjusted weekly, decreasing the temperature by 5°F until the birds are fully feathered out or the ambient temperature is at least 70°F. It should also be located at one end of the brooder and the feed and water at the opposite end. This setup will allow the chicks to go to a warm spot (under the lamp) or near it, while providing a cooler end to get away from the heat.
I use pine shavings or hardwood shavings for bedding.

Well written, good guide for beginners and as well as old hands.

Nicely written. Easy to follow. Just one way of many ways to raise mealworms.

Good article on adding 'chicken furniture' to a coop/run.

Well written, only discrepancy I have is with the % humidity being 75% or higher at lockdown. Humidity at that level has lead to 'stuck' chicks in my experince. Too much moisture acts as a lubricant, doesn't allow the chick to turn in the shell while zipping. Can also cause drown chicks by water droplets falling from the condensate on the viewing panes onto the pipped egg.

Good information. Useful resource.

Good article on how to keep your eggs warm in cold weather.

Good article on the good and bad of raising chickens.

Good article on different types of combs. Covers some of the lesser known styles of combs. Good photos and illustrations.