3D Modeling for Coops (& appliances)

[Howard E]

OK, so lets try another version. On this next version, lets make it the same overall dimensions, except make it a simple mono slope, shed type roof. For this, we eliminate the front scratch shed. Leave the back as is and move the 4' high part all the way to the front. The screened in opening is now 36 inches, with 6 inches solid above and below the screened in opening.

Pitch of the roof will be lowered, but overall, remains 45" wide x 78" deep.

What does that look like?

 

[WesleyBeal]

OK, so lets try another version. On this next version, lets make it the same overall dimensions, except make it a simple mono slope, shed type roof. For this, we eliminate the front scratch shed. Leave the back as is and move the 4' high part all the way to the front. The screened in opening is now 36 inches, with 6 inches solid above and below the screened in opening.

Pitch of the roof will be lowered, but overall, remains 45" wide x 78" deep.

What does that look like?

It'll probably be Monday before I get to it (I try to avoid sitting at the computer as much as possible when I'm not working), but to be clear, you're talking about the front being 4' high, sloping to the back. Then the front is all open, except for 6" at top and bottom?

 

[Howard E]

Yes. That converts it to being more like a traditional coop, (Wichita style), except it retains the rectangle shape, with narrow end open. That may retain the "air cushion" effect, and also allow for an easier build along with the option of an attached run of the same size, connected by a pop door near the front corner.

 

[Finnie]

 
Cool!  Having fun?

Yeah, a bit.

Thinking I can get this fully designed, complete with a list of the hardware and lumber needed, and a cut-list...But I like the idea of helping come up with something that will work for others, that doesn't suffer the pitfalls of the small coops out on the market today, that a person can build themselves with nothing more advanced than a circular saw, for a whole lot less money than those other coops.

This is a great idea! I wish something like this had been around when I was building my 4'x4' coop. I searched all over the Internet for plans, and ended up with a free plan for something completely different then I wanted. Which I then spent hours redesigning and working out my materials.

 

[WesleyBeal]

OK, so lets try another version. On this next version, lets make it the same overall dimensions, except make it a simple mono slope, shed type roof. For this, we eliminate the front scratch shed. Leave the back as is and move the 4' high part all the way to the front. The screened in opening is now 36 inches, with 6 inches solid above and below the screened in opening.

Pitch of the roof will be lowered, but overall, remains 45" wide x 78" deep.

What does that look like?

Here you go. Just closing off 6" at top and bottom leaves a screened in opening more around 39 1/2" as I've laid things out so far, as there's an extra 3 1/2" at the top for the rafter. If I went back in and dropped the roof height, it might be necessary to adjust the position of the side doors, pushing them to the front a bit, but otherwise wouldn't be an issue.

My preference would be to maintain the scratch shed. While it looks more complicated, I don't think it actually adds real difficulty to the build process.

 

[aart]

Nice model!

 

[Howard E]

I think that is what you call WIDE OPEN as far as ventilation is concerned. But I think it has lots of potential. Sides and roof need to be cut from a single sheet of 4' x 8' plywood, so to my eye, sides need to extend up to the top of where the rafters are shown (3 rafters in total and they run inside the plywood so plywood can be screwed to them), to make the roof from a single sheet of plywood, the "box" portion or width of front and back needs to be about 45" to allow 1 1/2" inches of roof overhang per side to allow for a 3/4" trim board and also 3/4" for roof edging.

I'd move the pop door to the forward left corner, and if a person wanted to have a similar sized run attached to the left side (you would do that by extending the roof to the left same width as the coop) I'd make the pop door a vertical slider (guillotine style) so you could open and close it by pulling a string from the outside. That would allow room for side windows for light and hot weather ventilation. External nests on either the back wall or right wall and only one opening door on the right side.

A person could also hang the screened in front panel on top mounted hinges to swing it up for access and cleaning. Inset the screened frame of the front panel inside the building frame. The screen should be capped in size to no more than 36" as that is the standard size of 1/2" x 1" 14 gauge welded wire that I would put on as screening. I think the standard sizes might be 24", 30', 36" and maybe 48".

If that wide open front proved to be too drafty, perhaps house could also be made as 48" wide x 96" deep (4' x 8'). With a width to depth ratio of 2.0x, back where the roost bars are, at the back end of the tunnel or "pipe", any drafts and air movement should die out to nothing.

But otherwise, I like this a lot. It is in many ways similar in shape and design to some fresh air coops shown in Harvey Ussery's book "The Small Scale Poultry Flock".

 

[WesleyBeal]

Thought I'd update you all - I've been working on the Woods-Mini model. Went back in and re-modeled a lot of things to make sure each part was on exactly the right plane, got all pieces set to precisely the correct lengths and widths.

I've gone through the model also with an eye to common dimensional lumber sizes and commonly available materials, making sure there aren't any strange needs for this construction.

Along those lines, I made sure it could be built without the need to purchase any piece of material longer than 8 feet.

Besides the model of the coop, I've also created models of every part, as it would be cut out from common materials.

The framing is all done with 2x4's. It uses 4x4's for the four bottom posts, and it uses some 2x2 material inside along the floor to fill in gaps which would occur between the plywood floor and the outer side walls.

The doors are made from 1x12's with 1x4s as battens (the pop-door is made of a piece of 1x12 also).

It requires 5 sheets of plywood - I've gone with 3/4", though a person might be able to save some money and weight using 1/2".

It uses up 9 8-foot 2x4's. I suggest buying 10, just in case.

As time permits I'm going to price this all out.

I haven't uploaded it to the web yet, but I'm near ready to do so.

In the meantime, here's a couple screenshots.

The gray areas on the shot of the parts are waste leftover after making your cuts.



Parts:

 

[WesleyBeal]

Working through things, I realized there was a significant issue with this design.

As designed, there wasn't a good method to secure the top of the structure to the base.

So I've made some modifications. Now, I use 2x6 material for the 77" long runners, and instead of 4x4's, I'm using two 3x4's, one 27 1/2" long, the other 22" long, held together with two lag screws.

This way the long runners sit on the top of the 22" long 2x4's, and are held in place with 2 carriage bolts (for each leg).

Thus:



Close up:

 

[WesleyBeal]

I have gone online, combination between the local big-box store and McMaster-Carr, and looked up prices for the materials needed to put this coop together.

Total price before tax is $352.65

Doesn't seem too bad to me. What do others think?

Next up, recommended tools.

I know I'd want a pneumatic nailer, pneumatic stapler, an impact-driver.a miter-saw, and a circular saw. That's a bit more than the cost of the materials if you bought the cheapest available (which would be a horrible idea).

Materials​

Item Size unitPrice UnitsNeeded TotalPrice Notes
Treated 2x4 8'

$4.16​

2​

$8.32​

Treated 2x4 6'

$3.82​

1​

$3.82​

Treated 2x6 8'

$6.56​

2​

$13.12​

Treated Plywood sheets 3/4"

$32.09​

5​

$160.45​

Standard 2x4 8'

$2.22​

7​

$15.54​

Standard 1x4 6'

$1.42​

2​

$2.84​

Standard 1x12 8'

$6.54​

1​

$6.54​

Standard 1x12 6'

$4.89​

1​

$4.89​

Standard 2x2 6'

$3.91​

2​

$7.82​

Strap Hinge 4"/1"

$4.28​

4​

$17.12​

Pull Handles 6"

$4.40​

2​

$8.80​

1/4" Hardware Cloth 24" x 37'

$50.00​

1​

$50.00​

Fastener, Flat-head Phillips #6 1 1/4"

$2.37​

1​

$2.37​

100pc box
Fastener, common nail 10D

$8.80​

1​

$8.80​

5lb
Fastener, Carriage Bolt 5/8" x 4"

$9.36​

2​

$18.72​

5-pack (8 needed)
Fastener, Washer 5/8" ID

$6.00​

1​

$6.00​

10-pack (8 needed)
Fastener, Nuts 5/8"-11

$7.43​

1​

$7.43​

25-pack (8 needed)
Fastener, Lag Screws 3/8" x 2 1/2"

$4.61​

1​

$4.61​

10-pack (8 needed)
Fastener, Hammer-in staples 3/16" wide, 3/4" long

$5.46​

1​

$5.46​

500-count box

Grand Total​

$352.65​