3D Modeling for Coops (& appliances)

[aart]

Well, you could have notched the 4x4 vertical posts to accept the cross pieces.

Roof sheathing doesn't cover edges of wall sheathing, maybe that's just a modeling glitch.
Roof overhangs on sides will help protect door tops and leakage (I know that blows your materials layout, but....).
5/8" carriage bolts seem overkill.
Staples are for HC? Looks like nailers are missing in places for that and screws and washers or trim boards are much more secure and easier to install.

Looks pretty good on 'paper', models are particularly attractive, tho I can't see some of the assembly geometry.
I personally wouldn't publish plans until I'd built the thing myself..... 'field design' can change things greatly, you know?

Especially if it's for a beginner builder....and more especially if you're going to tout 'Woods' as size is theoretical and untested.

Just some thoughts.

 

[WesleyBeal]

Well, you could have notched the 4x4 vertical posts to accept the cross pieces.

Roof sheathing doesn't cover edges of wall sheathing, maybe that's just a modeling glitch.
Roof overhangs on sides will help protect door tops and leakage (I know that blows your materials layout, but....).
5/8" carriage bolts seem overkill.
Staples are for HC? Looks like nailers are missing in places for that and screws and washers or trim boards are much more secure and easier to install.

Looks pretty good on 'paper', models are particularly attractive, tho I can't see some of the assembly geometry. 
I personally wouldn't publish plans until I'd built the thing myself..... 'field design' can change things greatly, you know?    
Especially if it's for a beginner builder....and more especially if you're going to tout 'Woods' as size is theoretical and untested.

Just some thoughts.

Thanks for the feedback!

The Woods' size, with accompanying benefits, is still theoretical?

Washers or trim boards would be a lot simpler - I'll modify to go with that.

I was trying to guess, and end up on the safe side, with regards to the carriage bolts. That is a whole lot of weight up there. Treated 3/4" plywood isn't light. Do you think 3/8" would be good enough?

The roof overhang, or lack thereof, is an issue. With a 48" wide coop.... Perhaps I should use two sheets, 1/2", but then there's a seam which would leak. Would like to come up with a solution; haven't figured one out yet.

Notching 4x4s seems more intimidating to me than screwing two 2x4s together. Maybe that's just me. Don't know.

 

[aart]

This size Woods is theoretical...as far as I know, Howard can confirm or correct me on that.

The roof sheathing would be covered by waterproof material(s) would it not, so a sheathing seam should not be an issue?

I learned early in my drafting career......'just because you can draw it, doesn't mean it can or should be built'.

 

[Howard E]

Yes, theoretical. But after having seen the sketches, it looks like it could work. The sketches also help me with ideas on how I would frame and build it. This could go together pretty fast.

Since it was my hair brained idea, I'm leaning towards building it myself. I may be getting more chicks in a few months, so may need a brooder anyway.

 

[aart]

Yes, theoretical. But after having seen the sketches, it looks like it could work. The sketches also help me with ideas on how I would frame and build it. This could go together pretty fast.

Since it was my hair brained idea, I'm leaning towards building it myself. I may be getting more chicks in a few months, so may need a brooder anyway.

Cool...if you take progress pics as you build Wes could then update the model and make it a publishable plan.

 

[WesleyBeal]

Cool...if you take progress pics as you build Wes could then update the model and make it a publishable plan.

I should clarify, "publishing" a plan on SketchUp only requires standards you choose to hold yourself too. There are tons of "napkin-sketches" on there.

I want to come up with a model that a beginner could follow to successfully build a coop. This is a skill-development opportunity for me, that'll serve me well as I use SketchUp for other projects of mine down the road.

And just in case it needs said, when I have a model that I feel good about uploading to the SketchUp community, I'll be giving full credit to @Howard E and @aart and anyone else that helps me arrive at a working model.

It would be awesome Howard if you do build this coop. I need to convince you to install SketchUp. You don't need to be able to create a model to make use of one that has already been created. It's really easy to learn how to open a model, select parts in it, move them around so you can see things better, & etc. Doesn't take near the amount of learning needed to create a 2x4.

 

[aart]

.....and maybe I should clarify.... to me 'publishing' means putting an idea/plan out there anywhere on the net that is incomplete and/or untested.
It's something I try to avoid, tho I too am guilty of posting pictorials on my own DIY stuff that was later proven in use to be dysfunctional or incomplete.
I've seen SO many coop plans out there that are ridiculous in design and/or fabrication....I just wanted to encourage you to not add another.
Great start on a good theory, I would love to see built and tested....then shared.

Oh, and I need no credit whatsoever.
Satisfaction derived from participating in a good design team is enough for me, only thing I miss about working(other than the paycheck-haha!).

 

[WesleyBeal]

I have a question about the Woods design that I'm hoping either @aart or @Howard E can answer.

The ratio between the front and back sections in one dimension makes sense to me. How is it determined how high the front section is? and (probably with that determination) how large the openings are at the top?

I've been reading through "Open-air Poultry Houses..." hoping to find it, but haven't had luck.

Since the point of the design is that the air current will stop before it gets to the back, it seems like it has to matter.

 

[aart]

I have a question about the Woods design that I'm hoping either @aart or @Howard E can answer.

The ratio between the front and back sections in one dimension makes sense to me. How is it determined how high the front section is? and (probably with that determination) how large the openings are at the top?

I've been reading through "Open-air Poultry Houses..." hoping to find it, but haven't had luck.

Since the point of the design is that the air current will stop before it gets to the back, it seems like it has to matter.

I don't think it really matters.

The two critical things are:
-the width to depth ratio of building, and maybe the height of the front 'window'.
-and that all openings are closed tight in the winter except the big front window.
Those two things are what keep strong drafts from reaching the back of the coop where the roosts are.

I imagine the location of the pop door could be important when it is open in winter, I believe it's towards the front of the building?

 

[Howard E]

I tend to concur. Think of the back part under the monitor as being part of a square cube. Height of the monitor wall being the same height as the back wall is wide. So for my 8' x 12' coop, back part is 8' wide, 8' down each side to the vertical wall of the monitor opening, and then 8' tall. From the top of the monitor peak, the roof slopes at somewhere around 4" or 5" rise per 12" run. On the mini, for example, I used a 4/12 roof, so from the peak at 4' high, the back part is 32". (48" - (4" x 4")) = 32"

The height of the front walls is open for debate, but what I did was to scale the height of those in the same proportion as Woods did to get a height of the open front wall. From the top of that, I then used a roof pitch of 3" rise per 12" run (3/12). Keeping those at known rise/run factors allows you to use framing squares and rafter tables to get the framing right. So that would get you to the point where the front scratch wall interfaces with the monitor wall. Eye that to see if it also looks to be in proportion, and keep in mind you need to frame in a monitor window. If you use a standard sized transom window for this, the framing has to fit. I allowed mine to be what looked right and then made my transom windows to fit the opening.

More or less.

BTW, if you read the book pretty close, you will find where he said it would be easy for mere mortals to bang together a coop, but should probably hire a carpenter to make the windows. Those do take a bit more skill and tools than most might have.