A BEE thread....for those interested in beekeeping.

Hi.

It's actually rather late to be feeding syrup now but if you are going to, it needs to be 2:1 sugar to water at this time of year, so that they have less water to evaporate off. For future reference, feeding 2:1 syrup should be done in Sept if it is required. If you think they don't have enough stores to get through winter now, it would probably be better to give them fondant, as the water evaporated from the syrup will condense in the hive now that the temperatures are dropping and could cause damp conditions that would be detrimental to their wellbeing.

1:1 (light syrup) is a stimulative feed to encourage brood expansion. This is useful in Spring when you want the colony to build up to be ready for the nectar flow but not at this time of year when they need to be scaling down for winter.
Personally I prefer to let them expand with the natural conditions and flora and therefore I don't feed in Spring or summer and only feed in autumn if I think they don't have enough honey...which is a rare occurrence.

Likewise, reducing entrances probably should have been done a couple of months ago. Wasps and other bees tend to target weaker hives and it is always a good precaution to take before you start feeding.

A metal mouse guard over the entrance is probably a good move as mice can get into remarkably small holes and will chew a wooden entrance block to make it large enough to get in. Insulation is helpful (I use an old pillowcase stuffed with straw) and ensuring that there is no empty space above the colony, so if you have a super that is only half/quarter full, either remove it or pack the empty space with some insulating material like scrunched up newspaper. Oh and remove the queen excluder if you have one on as the colony, including the queen needs to be able to access the whole hive.

Can't think of anything else at the moment. The wind break you suggest around the hives is a good plan though.

Regards

Barbara
 
Hi.

It's actually rather late to be feeding syrup now but if you are going to, it needs to be 2:1 sugar to water at this time of year, so that they have less water to evaporate off. For future reference, feeding 2:1 syrup should be done in Sept if it is required. If you think they don't have enough stores to get through winter now, it would probably be better to give them fondant, as the water evaporated from the syrup will condense in the hive now that the temperatures are dropping and could cause damp conditions that would be detrimental to their wellbeing.

1:1 (light syrup) is a stimulative feed to encourage brood expansion. This is useful in Spring when you want the colony to build up to be ready for the nectar flow but not at this time of year when they need to be scaling down for winter.
Personally I prefer to let them expand with the natural conditions and flora and therefore I don't feed in Spring or summer and only feed in autumn if I think they don't have enough honey...which is a rare occurrence.

Likewise, reducing entrances probably should have been done a couple of months ago. Wasps and other bees tend to target weaker hives and it is always a good precaution to take before you start feeding.

A metal mouse guard over the entrance is probably a good move as mice can get into remarkably small holes and will chew a wooden entrance block to make it large enough to get in. Insulation is helpful (I use an old pillowcase stuffed with straw) and ensuring that there is no empty space above the colony, so if you have a super that is only half/quarter full, either remove it or pack the empty space with some insulating material like scrunched up newspaper. Oh and remove the queen excluder if you have one on as the colony, including the queen needs to be able to access the whole hive.

Can't think of anything else at the moment. The wind break you suggest around the hives is a good plan though.

Regards

Barbara

Thanks for your suggestions! I should have noted that my husband switched over from syrup to a sugar cube/block a little while ago. Not sure if that is the same as fondant. We read the same thing you said about too much moisture from the syrup. The queen excluder is already out because we just have the 2 deep brood boxes (no honey supers). We believe we had a swarm in late July which is why we felt the need to feed the hive this fall because they were behind. I will look into the mouse guard.
 
Hi

It's a good book. I have the old edition and I am a regular member and contributor to the author's "biobees forum"

I think most people using horizontal top bar hives on the forum now use end entrances rather than centre entrances as the latter sometimes requires rearrangements of stores prior to the winter, whereas end entrances ensure honey is stores mostly towards the back of the hive. Phil also came up with an idea for an eco floor rather than a mesh floor. This simulates what would be found in a hollow tree and provides a medium for other insects which may be beneficial, (wood lice, ear wigs and perhaps even stratiolaelaps which is a parasite of varroa) to live within the hive and perhaps clear up any varroa that fall or get groomed off the bees. It also provides a breathable draught free floor.... basically, it is a deep litter mesh floor box fitted to the bottom of the hive filled with seasoned wood chips and dry leaves, which the bees have access to so that they can remove/propolise anything they need to. The medium in the deep litter box helps to maintain humidity (which is helpful in the fight against varroa but allows drainage/evaporation of excess water out of the bottom through the mesh.

There will no doubt also be mention of the "periscope entrance" which is a small entrance box fitted to the outside of the hive. Bees enter at the bottom if the box climb up inside the box and enter the hive at a higher level. This means that there is not a clear sight and access into the hive for wasps and other robbers and therefore helps prevent robbing but also reduces draughts as it acts like a entrance lobby.

I'm think Phil's current book focusses more on building your hive and the different features you can incorporate. He's been working on an idea of having domed top bars, to better mimic the arched roof of a tree cavity. Don't think that will be included in the new book as it's not tried and tested. The benefits of this are to draw any condensation down the sides rather than it forming on the flat roof above the bees and perhaps dripping onto them in winter and causing the cluster to chill.

Anyway,lots of interesting thoughts and ideas coming out of the biobees forum. Not all will work for everyone but keeps you thinking what might be best for your bees rather than following the conventional plan.

I think the focus of the book is that beekeeping doesn't have to cost a fortune and anyone can do it and that understanding what bees need is more important than throwing lots of money at the hobby.

I have 4 homemade top bar hives (and I'm no real woodworker) that I made from recycled materials that probably cost me less than £!0 each. Bees that populate them were swarms, so effectively free. Hobby costs me very little other than time.

I have been beekeeping for 16 years and I have conventional framed hives which I started with before I discovered TBHs, but keeping bees on natural combs in top bar hives along with the increased understanding of their natural lifestyle has been and still is a revelation to me. My knowledge and understanding has increased tenfold in the last 3-4 years of natural beekeeping and being a member of biobees..... and that change started with buying and reading "The Barefoot Beekeeper".

Most people start beekeeping as a hobby rather than a commercial enterprise, so spending hundreds and hundreds of pounds is extremely off putting. An acquaintance reckons every jar of honey they get from his wife's conventional hive costs him about £100, by the time they have bought the hive and the frames and the foundation and the extractor and the bees and then replacement bees when those die and the smoker and protective suit....Yes, some of those things are needed or helpful but a lot are not. It doesn't have to be like that and "The Barefoot Beekeeper" illustrates that.

There are of course many other good books on natural beekeeping but I don't have time to or knowledge to review them right now.

Best wishes

Barbara
 
Thanks Barbara! I just ordered the book. My plan is to read over the winter and hopefully get started in the spring/summer. I know very little about bees. I've always been a bit afraid of them after a scary incident when I was a kid. But I really love honey, lol. I like the idea of natural, chemical free beekeeping and I don't want to sell honey....just have a bit for myself. I am not a carpenter so we will see how it goes......and I couldn't afford all the tools and toys that some people probably buy. I will keep reading the forum, also.
 
Rebrascora, thank you for your thoughtful contribution. I have to say I very much enjoy my top bar hive, and quite often would just go out and sit by the hive watching the bees buzz back and forth. The natural substrate floor sounds intriguing.
 
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I am finally starting to feel better - a bad virus for sure. Interestingly enough nothing really helped my throat until I started the warm honey water, and within 2 days of treatment the pain was almost gone, as well as much of the swelling. I hate menthol drops and most sore throat meds (Chloriseptic makes me physically sick), but I got to thinking that they put honey (or honey flavoring) in throat drops and I have LOTS of honey around so...and wow it worked. Or maybe I would have gotten better anyway, but I don't mind crediting the bees
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