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Any coop advice

Brightbird

In the Brooder
Jul 23, 2022
45
41
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I’m not sure if this is the right place, I apologize if it’s not. Recently I’ve been thinking of upgrading both of my chicken coops as the bigger one is beginning to wear down and the smaller one may be too small for the flock that resides in it. It’s nighttime as I’m writing this but I’ll get some measurements of the coops tomorrow if the weather permits.

I keep hearing that building your own coop from scratch is better than buying one, but I know nothing of construction, and while I’d like to get into the skill, I am not comfortable enough for a coop to be my first construction project. I’m too scared that I would make a bad mistake that would put my chickens in danger.

My question is, is there any specific coops or brands you can buy that could be suitable replacements? For context I have two flocks. One has a mature rooster of unknown age and 4 Rhode Island reds who live in the big coop, and the other has a younger rooster (who I believe will be around 5 months old on the 21st of December if the notes on my calendar are correct) and 2 buff orpingtons who live in the small coop.

The big coop was built by the previous owner so I’m not sure what the maximum amount of chickens it could hold is, I’ll try to get measurements soon. The small coop said on the box that it could hold up to 6 chickens, but like I said above, I have a sneaking suspicion that it may not be true. I don’t know if we plan on getting anymore chickens, I personally would like at least a couple more hens for both the roosters but my father seems to be against getting more. Though I would imagine that planning for a coop that can hold more than we currently have is the best way forward, just in case, plus the extra room wouldn’t hurt even if we don’t.
 
Welcome to BYC. Where, in general, are you? Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

Here is some general information to help you get started:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
4 hens
  • 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
  • 4 feet of roost
  • 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
  • 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
  • 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice
6 hens
  • 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
  • 6 feet of roost
  • 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
  • 6 square feet of ventilation.
  • 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice
8 hens
  • 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
  • 8 feet of roost
  • 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
  • 8 square feet of ventilation.
  • 2-3 nest boxes.
Here is my article on coop ventilation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

Here are some small and medium coops to look at:

Small Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/dallas-urban-coop-single-slope-design.72422/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/yakisugi-coop.76398/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coreys-coop-de-doop.55619/

Medium Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-barn-red-and-white-coop-complete-build-photos.75458/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-coop.74322/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/egg-song-music-factory.74019/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/perkolators-modern-chicken-estate-2019.75345/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...-our-charming-and-eleggant-family-coop.77803/'

That said, if you have limited DIY skills, hoop coops are usually considered the easiest coops to build:

Hoop Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/
 
It's easy to build a simple coop, you shouldn't be afraid to try. The coop will be cheaper, sturdier, more predator proof and have all the space they need compared to a prefab.
Unless you're willing the pay a couple (3+) grand for a custom prefab coop, there are NO companies that I'm aware of that will give you a nice coop at a decent price. Always divide the number of birds a prefab says they can hold by 3 or 4, if it says it holds 10 birds, it will likely only hold 3 or 4. Killerbs has given you all the info you need on space, which is a good baseline.
I built this coop and it was my first construction project and it turned out fine. If you can cut a (mostly) straight line and work a drill, you can do it.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/nuthatchs-arizonan-boid-house.77601/
There are lot of coops in the articles section if you need inspiration and plans.
 
Welcome to BYC. Where, in general, are you? Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

Here is some general information to help you get started:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:
  • 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
  • 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
  • 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
  • 1/4 of a nest box,
  • And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.
4 hens
  • 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
  • 4 feet of roost
  • 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
  • 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
  • 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice
6 hens
  • 24 square feet in the coop. 4'x6' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber. If you can't walk into it, put the access door in the middle of the long side to make sure you can reach all areas of the coop because a stubborn chicken WILL press itself into/lay an egg in the back corner where you can't reach.
  • 6 feet of roost
  • 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
  • 6 square feet of ventilation.
  • 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice
8 hens
  • 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
  • 8 feet of roost
  • 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
  • 8 square feet of ventilation.
  • 2-3 nest boxes.
Here is my article on coop ventilation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

Here are some small and medium coops to look at:

Small Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/dallas-urban-coop-single-slope-design.72422/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/yakisugi-coop.76398/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coreys-coop-de-doop.55619/

Medium Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-barn-red-and-white-coop-complete-build-photos.75458/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/my-coop.74322/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/egg-song-music-factory.74019/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/perkolators-modern-chicken-estate-2019.75345/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...-our-charming-and-eleggant-family-coop.77803/'

That said, if you have limited DIY skills, hoop coops are usually considered the easiest coops to build:

Hoop Coops

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/
I’m somewhere in the middle of Missouri. The summers are hot and while it doesn’t snow every winter, when it does it often times snows hard, and even without it the weather gets cold enough to freeze water.

I talked to my dad about the measurements and he claims the small coop is bigger than the 4’x4’ for 4 chickens, but I’m probably still going to measure it just in case.
It's easy to build a simple coop, you shouldn't be afraid to try. The coop will be cheaper, sturdier, more predator proof and have all the space they need compared to a prefab.
Unless you're willing the pay a couple (3+) grand for a custom prefab coop, there are NO companies that I'm aware of that will give you a nice coop at a decent price. Always divide the number of birds a prefab says they can hold by 3 or 4, if it says it holds 10 birds, it will likely only hold 3 or 4. Killerbs has given you all the info you need on space, which is a good baseline.
I built this coop and it was my first construction project and it turned out fine. If you can cut a (mostly) straight line and work a drill, you can do it.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/nuthatchs-arizonan-boid-house.77601/
There are lot of coops in the articles section if you need inspiration and plans.
I’ve worked with a drill before so that would be no problem but while my dad has an assortment of tools I don’t think we’ve got a saw. After looking at some other peoples coops I’m already starting to daydream. I don’t even think what I’m thinking of could be possible. My dream coop technically could be considered two coops in one, symmetrical and divided down the middle with some kind of see-through material so I could put both flocks in there permanently without worrying about any fighting. That way I’d only have to make one trip to care for both flocks rather than the multiple I have to make now. And what I’m picturing in my head is probably a lot bigger than what it would have to be in reality.
 
Its not terribly difficult to build a fairly simple laid out coop. I'm a carpenter by trade but for the last 5yrs have worked in a custom wood shop, so I'm slightly biased lol.

Still, with basic power tools its really not too hard if you can follow even basic plans.

I built our super simple small coop over the course of 3 weekends.


20221023_162436.jpg
 
I’m somewhere in the middle of Missouri. The summers are hot and while it doesn’t snow every winter, when it does it often times snows hard, and even without it the weather gets cold enough to freeze water.

In that case you should check out my hot climate article: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

And you might find this thread reassuring: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/open-air-coop-in-the-snow.1508695/

Open Air coops are simpler to build than enclosed coops because they're mostly wire.

I’ve worked with a drill before so that would be no problem but while my dad has an assortment of tools I don’t think we’ve got a saw.

A hoop coop might be the best option then.

Do you have any friends or relatives who could loan tools, teach, and assist?

My dream coop technically could be considered two coops in one, symmetrical and divided down the middle with some kind of see-through material so I could put both flocks in there permanently without worrying about any fighting.

A hoop coop could be built this way with a barrier installed between sections of the cattle panel.
 
We just finished building a heavily-modified version of one of the larger coop plans here. They are very well written and detailed, even for someone like me (who is not a carpenter).

https://www.thegardencoop.com

We actually built TWO of them, side by side, like you’re talking about. The coop/run is divided by removable panels made of plastic chick fence. I have seven hens in one side, and seven 2.5 month old chicks in the other. Once the chicks are fully integrated with the big girls, the panels will come out and it’ll be one big coop/run.
 
Per @3KillerBs above "Open Air coops are simpler to build than enclosed coops because they're mostly wire."

My 2cents. If by "open air" one is thinking "Fresh Air" per Woods the effort required is close on a full coop build.

I believe @3KillerBs is more describing a coop for warm/hot climates that has half or more of it's walls of hardware cloth, probably with a roof for shelter and protection.

As she advocates a hoop coop is likely the least expensive, easiest assembled, fully functional coop.
 

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