Basic questio/Suggestions

[Medda]

So I’ve finally settled on a design, gotten the lumber, and gathered most of the needed tools. The tractor will be 4’ wide by 12’ long in the run with a 4’x4’ coop over one end. All exposed run areas will be covered by 1/2 inch hardware cloth. I plan to anchor the hardware cloth with washers/screws. The coop/run will be framed with pressure treated 2x4s and then painted. The coop will have 7/16” OSB for the walls and floor. The floor will be covered in the cheap vinyl sticky tiles. I hope to have a max of 4 ladies that will call this home.

I’m totally new to woodworking/building so here are my basic questions:
1). What type and size of screws do I need? 2.25, 2.5 or 3 inch?
2) Since the coop portion is only 4’ per side, do I need to do framing studs 16” on center or would one stud at 24” be enough for each wall/floor support?
3). For the roof I was able to get 3 sheet of polycarbonate corrugated panels (2’x10’) at a great price. Do I need to put OSB board on the roof and then place the panels or can I just use the panels themselves for the roof?
4). The tools I currently have are: 7 1/4” circular saw, a corded drill, 2 sawhorses, and various hand tools. I think I’m going to get a jigsaw to cut the openings. Would you all recommend any other tools (orbital sander, impact driver, c-clamps, etc)?

This is obviously a work in progress and I don’t have a timeframe other than I hope to have this done by the end of February. I haven’t gotten any chicks or even ordered yet. I’ll be building this by myself so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, Medda

 

[Ridgerunner]

Since you are using treated wood get screws specially made for use with treated wood. They last longer. When you get ready to install a screw, drill a pilot hole first to make it so much easier. Use a drill bit a little smaller in diameter than the screw. The pilot hole does not have to go as deep as the screw will go but at least enough to get the screw started.

2x4’s are actually 1-1/2” x 3-1/2” in measurements. If you are screwing two 1-1/2” thicknesses together use 2-1/2” screws. Sometimes the head sinks in a bit, you don’t want a sharp point coming out the other side. When I screw a 1-1/2” to a 3-1/2” I use a 3” screw so it holds better. The length of screw you use depends on the thickness you are screwing into.

I don’t know how you are planning on moving that tractor but generally you want it as light as you can get it. That should be a basic principle for you. Even without considering weight a 24” stud spacing will be plenty. Personally I would not even put a stud, when I built my tractor I did not put one. One problem with not putting in a stud is that the plywood or OSB may not stay perfectly flat but can easily get wavy. Not having a stud will not cause it to be too weak but it can affect how flat it lays. How important is pretty to you? To some people it is really important.

I would not use the OSB. It is heavy and I’m not sure how it will stand up to the weather, even painted. The cut ends are generally the problem, they can absorb moisture and swell. I used 3/8”plywood. It was plenty strong enough and weighed less. But it did get wavy. If you already have the OSB and will use it, seal the edges as best you can.

I have not used that type of roofing panel. I think they’d be OK without an underlay but I have no experience with them.

Another suggestion is to get it ready before you order the chicks. Life has a way of getting in the way of schedules.

 

[Medda]

Thanks! That's my plan....I want to have the tractor built before I even order chicks. I do have the OSB already and was wondering about sanding the edges/cuts before painting to help seal it? That's why i was thinking of getting an orbital sander.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Sanding will not do it, you need a moisture proof barrier. I'd put some type of sealant on it before I painted, but I haven't done that so I don't know what sealant I'd use. The only OSB I've used has been interior.

 

[Ohmyheart]

Don't paint the wood, use a stain. You can get the stain tinted to a colour you want. Stains are better at protecting the wood and sealing out water.

 

[aart]

Don't paint the wood, use a stain. You can get the stain tinted to a colour you want. Stains are better at protecting the wood and sealing out water.

Stain won't work too well on OSB as it's full of glue and won't soak in.

I do have the OSB already and was wondering about sanding the edges/cuts before painting to help seal it?

Sanding won't help seal it(not sure that's what you meant) but not a bad thing to do before painting. Multiple coats of a good exterior paint should do the trick.

For the roof I was able to get 3 sheet of polycarbonate corrugated panels (2’x10’) at a great price. Do I need to put OSB board on the roof and then place the panels or can I just use the panels themselves for the roof?

You could just use the panels, but make sure you have adequate rafter spacing to attach it to, manufacturer should have a recommendation for that.
Using OSB under the panels could work too.
Either way you'll need a ridge cap,
and should probably silicone between pieces you use to get your 12' length.

 

[Medda]

Thanks for the feedback.
Medda

 

[blackdog043]

Put a light coating of paintable caulk on the OSB edge, before painting it. It will help a little more with keeping water from penetrating.