Best Way to Heat? at 60 below zero!

Some of this was discussed in this thread a year ago:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/northern-lights.1144840/

Not sure we ever resolved it, but point was to try to find out where you cross the line to where you cannot keep birds alive as the rest of us do it, without supplemental light to keep the birds active.

My guess is you are far enough north that your best bet is to move the birds indoors, as nearly all of the commercial flocks do. Supplemental heat and light. One way to do it is to have them live inside a greenhouse.

Do a google/youtube search on "greenhouse, chickens, compost"

Tied to this is an alternative (one I keep saying I'm going to perfect), of using a compost pile to keep the water source from freezing. I think it could work.

another possibility is to employ the various zero net energy advancements in building efficiency. In the pacific northwest we actually have large scale developments being put in that employ a range of techniques to that result in zero utility bills. some of these techniques would be overkill for a coop but the basic concepts could be explored for consideration/modification, as reasonable, given one's climate and needs. the earthship model is a fairly popular one: http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/david-dodge/how-we-built-our-own-eart_b_5941062.html, common on the Golf Islands of British Columbia and are said to work well through the long dark winters. basically, by employing mostly passive techniques such as using earth mounding, south facing windows, low pitched roofs that take in winter sun and deflect summer sun, water balasts to collect heat during the day and radiate it at night and various convenction current options to provide ventilation and some simple heat exchanging systems to transfer the outgoing air's heat to the incoming air, staw bails, tires, ground news paper, once can make great gains in stabilizing temperature indoors. for a coop, it could be made in a similar manner, designed to be enclosed during the winter and easily opened up for the summer.

if you have a south facing slope, you could dig into the slope, terrace out and build the coop into the hill with the larger summer run in front. As the winter comes on, the chicken's run could be gradually limited in space, most limited during the extreme cold. a low pitched south facing solarium would also benefit the chickens by maximizing direct sunlight, to keep their natural endorphins going and keeping them ovulating, using artificial light as needed to maintain that 12-14 hour happy place.
 
another possibility is to employ the various zero net energy advancements in building efficiency. In the pacific northwest we actually have large scale developments being put in that employ a range of techniques to that result in zero utility bills. some of these techniques would be overkill for a coop but the basic concepts could be explored for consideration/modification, as reasonable, given one's climate and needs. the earthship model is a fairly popular one: http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/david-dodge/how-we-built-our-own-eart_b_5941062.html, common on the Golf Islands of British Columbia and are said to work well through the long dark winters. basically, by employing mostly passive techniques such as using earth mounding, south facing windows, low pitched roofs that take in winter sun and deflect summer sun, water balasts to collect heat during the day and radiate it at night and various convenction current options to provide ventilation and some simple heat exchanging systems to transfer the outgoing air's heat to the incoming air, staw bails, tires, ground news paper, once can make great gains in stabilizing temperature indoors. for a coop, it could be made in a similar manner, designed to be enclosed during the winter and easily opened up for the summer.

if you have a south facing slope, you could dig into the slope, terrace out and build the coop into the hill with the larger summer run in front. As the winter comes on, the chicken's run could be gradually limited in space, most limited during the extreme cold. a low pitched south facing solarium would also benefit the chickens by maximizing direct sunlight, to keep their natural endorphins going and keeping them ovulating, using artificial light as needed to maintain that 12-14 hour happy place.
She may be in dire need of a solution right now, but I was thinking about those same ideas as well. I've done a lot of reading on earth bag homes and passive solar. Since she has posted back here yet, maybe we can assume she either has a raised coop on stilts, like on the homestead where I lived in Alaska, or a standard walk-in coop similar to a shed.

If it's a walk-in structure with a strong roof, the snow on the roof would be insulating. The moisture would be a concern, but it likely wouldn't melt for months. If you layer heavy plastic around the exterior, up to say four feet, and then pack snow up against the coop, that could help lower the temperature, too. Snow cave are used for shelter for good reason, so there's one resource that could be used to help insulate the structure.

In the Fairbanks area the climate is an arctic desert. Very low moisture year round, despite gobs of snow. That's how I was able to commute by mountain bike on down to -65°F. With decreased pressure in the tires, and the tires glued to the rims, traction is good. But closer south near the ocean is down right frigid, with wind chill and high moisture content.

Stayed bales of straw up against the walls would help, and a very deep layer of dry mulch or some other material on the coop's floor. Every five degree increase in temperature can really help in extreme cold.

I'd probably also try to build a shelter around the roosts to tighten up the space for heat retention, and during the dark part of the day (most of the day at this point) I would put insulating layers of wool or even boards over the windows. Lexan retains heat better than glass, but even with Lexan windows I would cover them.

Since heat rises, consider raising the roosts higher, and warming boxes or shelters with heating pads tucked inside or even water bottles. I'm not sure how long water bottles or even potatoes would stay warm, but potatoes packed into a metal pail with a lid and wrapped in blankets and placed on a block to raise it off the floor, not a bad idea!

I'm trying to come up with low cost options, since that's where I'm at financially. The ceramic bulbs come loose all on their own, so as someone already mentioned, wrap them in wired and check on them regularly for safety if that's what you end up using.

For long term projects, I would love to build an earth bag coop. It would be a great starter project for earth ship building. And a small pinecone stove would keep it warm. There are some really great wood stove options out there, super small and compact but EPA certified and strong, safe construction; maximum heat with minimal wood needed.

There may be an Alaska forum on BYC, so check in with them as well for recommendations.
 
short term (not restructuring your whole coop) you could try making a few cinder block heaters, cheap and easily made with a few parts from the hardware store. Just an incandescent bulb, a plug in socket, and extension cord attached at the base so the bulb can't tip over within the block.
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lots of good comments already... From what I have heard from people who live in the very cold areas of Alaska (I live in Alaska's banana belt..relatively speaking )......

Insulate very well. Line everything with hardware cloth to keep the rodents out of the insulation.

Make your coop with a smaller sleeping area (easier to stay warm) and then a larger feeding area so they do have space and don't go stir crazy. An attached greenhouse that they access in the winter is great. Also have a roofed run. If you have lots of wind make one wall of the run clear plastic.

They NEED light so that they have enough light hours to eat enough to stay warm. I find 10 hours is good. 10 hours is enough time to eat, but not so much so that they lay... you really don't want them laying when it is that cold.

The perches must be wide and flat, chicken feet must be flat when they are sleeping.

Never let them run out of water or feed. Ever. You can feed them all of the high fat scraps you have...think suet blocks. So, bacon grease, olive oil, etc.

As to heating. .. having the coop up against the house and or garage is the best bet... but if you do that then hardware cloth the entire run and coop so more rodents don't get in your house. I know several people that use bathroom fans to vent heated garage air into the chicken coop. If the 2 buildings do not join you can run ductwork underground and do the same thing.

Do not ever use heat lamps... but you can:
-use heat tape on the perches and cover the tape with something the birds won't eat.
- infrared panels I think are only for warmer temps... I think I have heard that the oil filled electric heaters are pretty safe. Do vacuum them out once a month, and super secure the plug. I saw one setup where they had the oil filled electric heater behind a wire cage. That looked safest to me.
-lots of different ways to do radiant floor heat.

A heated water bowl will be a must, I like a stock tank deicer in a rubber bowl. But whatever you like. Do NOT try one of those heated metal waterers. They do not work below zero.

Also, you will want some way to keep eggs thawed. If you want traditional nest boxes, then do in floor heating for them. The mats used in bathroom floors under tile are probably safer than heating pads... not sure. Might need to research that. You can use roll out nest boxes where the eggs roll up against the pipe insulation foam, with a heat tape in the foam. That works well for a lady here in Alaska who gets to -40F.
 

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