California - Northern

[HighNDryFarm]

Thought I would share some pictures of the lavender Ameraucana chicks and one BCM chick I hatched for my friend Cyndi (Zoichick) over the weekend. They are beautiful!

They would not pose as well as my other chicks though! Frisky little suckers!

I have a granddaughter that hates her picture taken....she's turned her back or covered her face or screamed her head off for almost 5 years if you tried to take her picture....we have family pictures like this where everyone turned their backs to the camera. Call at least one of them Layla! This last year she's decided she will allow her picture to be taken...thankfully she's the only granddaughter out of six! LOL BTW, these are so silky beautiful!

Quote: I wouldn't move a broody ever but especially after she's been on eggs for so long. Even moving the broody with chicks that have hatched will most likely result in no more hatching. I try to leave her where she is until the chicks are moving so far she needs to follow them, usually about 24 hours. I had always wished I had an incubator to put the remaining eggs in because they are usually full term. There's always exceptions to the rules and if you have to move them you have to move them. My flock has never bothered chicks but the moms have always been good defenders.
I can't remember if it was you or someone else (so many chicks hatching this week

) but I had two broodies brood next to each other. Once the chicks hatched one broody took them all...the other broody never left her chick duties but she had to do it from the perimeter. We called her the perimeter mom because she shooed them back in when they got too far away but the other broody wouldn't let her close. It was sad to see her not get to cuddle with the kids but she stayed committed to guard duty.

I am setting so silver ameraucana this week.. Please work my dear incubator.
These are for my not so top secret olive egger project

I won't tell anyone...our little secret!

Well, I have 5 BCM's and 1 OE out with 5 more pipped. As I mentioned, 12 shipped and 12 not. 2 that are out are from the shipped eggs but 3 of the pipped are also from the shipped, so if everything hatches as it stands right now, it would be 5 shipped and 6 not....that's pretty close. Of course, there's still another dozen that I hope aren't done.....

Soooo, what needs to be adjusted that I'm getting such late hatches? 99.6 with 40% humidity up to lockdown and then boosted to 65%. Everyone that hatched so far hatched nicely, in a timely manner from pip to out but the last two didn't fluff up as quickly and although I still hear chirping in there, I'm not incredibly hopeful on the pipped eggs still in the incubator since we're on day 23. The last hatch I had to help 3 and haven't had to on any of these...do you think it's Marans or something that needs adjusting? My last hatch was 70% but this one will only be 50% if all the pippers hatch....am I over thinking this too soon?

 

[lawatt]

I have a granddaughter that hates her picture taken....she's turned her back or covered her face or screamed her head off for almost 5 years if you tried to take her picture....we have family pictures like this where everyone turned their backs to the camera. Call at least one of them Layla! This last year she's decided she will allow her picture to be taken...thankfully she's the only granddaughter out of six! LOL BTW, these are so silky beautiful!
I wouldn't move a broody ever but especially after she's been on eggs for so long. Even moving the broody with chicks that have hatched will most likely result in no more hatching. I try to leave her where she is until the chicks are moving so far she needs to follow them, usually about 24 hours. I had always wished I had an incubator to put the remaining eggs in because they are usually full term. There's always exceptions to the rules and if you have to move them you have to move them. My flock has never bothered chicks but the moms have always been good defenders.

in this case, i'm not so worried about the rest of the flock, but the box she was in was going to be impossible for the babies to get in/out of to get food or water -- so they HAD to move. she seems quite settled back onto her eggs (and chicks), although i will check tomorrow morning.




i can't help at all with the incubator issues, but CONGRATULATIONS on the chicks so far!!! hoping the rest get busy for you tomorrow!

 

[ronott1]

I have a granddaughter that hates her picture taken....she's turned her back or covered her face or screamed her head off for almost 5 years if you tried to take her picture....we have family pictures like this where everyone turned their backs to the camera. Call at least one of them Layla! This last year she's decided she will allow her picture to be taken...thankfully she's the only granddaughter out of six! LOL BTW, these are so silky beautiful!
I wouldn't move a broody ever but especially after she's been on eggs for so long. Even moving the broody with chicks that have hatched will most likely result in no more hatching. I try to leave her where she is until the chicks are moving so far she needs to follow them, usually about 24 hours. I had always wished I had an incubator to put the remaining eggs in because they are usually full term. There's always exceptions to the rules and if you have to move them you have to move them. My flock has never bothered chicks but the moms have always been good defenders.
I can't remember if it was you or someone else (so many chicks hatching this week

) but I had two broodies brood next to each other. Once the chicks hatched one broody took them all...the other broody never left her chick duties but she had to do it from the perimeter. We called her the perimeter mom because she shooed them back in when they got too far away but the other broody wouldn't let her close. It was sad to see her not get to cuddle with the kids but she stayed committed to guard duty.
I won't tell anyone...our little secret!

Well, I have 5 BCM's and 1 OE out with 5 more pipped. As I mentioned, 12 shipped and 12 not. 2 that are out are from the shipped eggs but 3 of the pipped are also from the shipped, so if everything hatches as it stands right now, it would be 5 shipped and 6 not....that's pretty close. Of course, there's still another dozen that I hope aren't done.....

Soooo, what needs to be adjusted that I'm getting such late hatches? 99.6 with 40% humidity up to lockdown and then boosted to 65%. Everyone that hatched so far hatched nicely, in a timely manner from pip to out but the last two didn't fluff up as quickly and although I still hear chirping in there, I'm not incredibly hopeful on the pipped eggs still in the incubator since we're on day 23. The last hatch I had to help 3 and haven't had to on any of these...do you think it's Marans or something that needs adjusting? My last hatch was 70% but this one will only be 50% if all the pippers hatch....am I over thinking this too soon?

Raise the temp to 99.9 and lower the humidity to 35%. Bump humidity to 70%, but don't lockdown until day 19.

Marans are tough and I am happy to get 5 or 6 per dozen on shipped eggs. Your flocks eggs should get closer to 80% plus.

When you eggtopsy and find out where they quit then we will know better about the adjustments. Late quitters that are gooey should be helped by the above setting changes. Not fertile would be nutrition, parasites, or a rooster fertility problem. Marans eggs are so dark that you often can't tell if they are developing.

I hope this helps!

 

[lizanne]

Candling question. I'm at 4 1/2 days in the incubator, and none of the bantam mixed Wyandottes eggs seem to be doing anything. Do bantam eggs take longer to be able to see development? I wonder if the seller is having fertility problems. The BLRW eggs from his breeding pens have veining. How long should I wait before getting rid of those as "clears"?

This is one of the eggs I candled. Is that a blood ring?

 

[ronott1]

Candling question. I'm at 4 1/2 days in the incubator, and none of the bantam mixed Wyandottes eggs seem to be doing anything. Do bantam eggs take longer to be able to see development? I wonder if the seller is having fertility problems. The BLRW eggs from his breeding pens have veining. How long should I wait before getting rid of those as "clears"?

This is one of the eggs I candled. Is that a blood ring?

That is a developing egg!

You often do not see anything until day 7. It is best to not even candle until day 7. That lets the ovum divide without the stress of being jiggled around.

The first 7 days of incubation are the time when it is easiest to kill them.

But like I said, that is a great amount of development for 4 days.

 

[lizanne]

That is a developing egg!

You often do not see anything until day 7. It is best to not even candle until day 7. That lets the ovum divide without the stress of being jiggled around.

The first 7 days of incubation are the time when it is easiest to kill them.

But like I said, that is a great amount of development for 4 days.

Good!! Thanks!! I tend to be a compulsive candler. It probably causes me more stress than necessary. I was getting worried, and thinking about finding some more eggs to go with those ones. If only one hatches, I don't want it to be lonely.

 

[Ali707]

Raise the temp to 99.9 and lower the humidity to 35%. Bump humidity to 70%, but don't lockdown until day 19.

Marans are tough and I am happy to get 5 or 6 per dozen on shipped eggs. Your flocks eggs should get closer to 80% plus.

When you eggtopsy and find out where they quit then we will know better about the adjustments. Late quitters that are gooey should be helped by the above setting changes. Not fertile would be nutrition, parasites, or a rooster fertility problem. Marans eggs are so dark that you often can't tell if they are developing.

I hope this helps!

Hi Ron:

You have mentioned the lockdown thing at day 19 now a couple of times and I am curious as to why? Just one more day at lower humidity? Easier to keep humidity up longer during a longer hatch since locking down a day later?

I have candled a couple of times and I have a bator full of all kinds of things. Shipped eggs, local eggs, dark eggs, light eggs, big eggs, little eggs, rough texture, waxy texture, etc. I am noticing that the white eggs are developing a bigger air cell than some of the other colors. Makes me a little concerned theirs will get too big, but some of the other eggs have a much smaller air cell in comparison and a little worried theirs will not get big enough.

Not much I can really do about it anyway at this point, but interesting to note.

I took out 5 non developers. One CL, one Polish, one Basque, one Wheaten Ameracauna and one Blue or Lavender English Orp. One blood ring on an Ameracauna.

My humidity goes up to 45% with just a tiny bit of water but doesn't last long so humidity ranges from 50-25% over a 2 day period. I didn't have such high humidity with the quail eggs. Couldn't get above 65% for anything. With all the tanks full I should be able to now for lock down.

Sorry to ramble, just like to be able to discuss this with people that actually understand what I am saying.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Since the whites are getting sort of big air cells I hate to leave the humidity at 25% until Thurs or Friday. Friday would be day 19.

 

[OR4-hmom]

I let the fawn OEGB keep a couple of eggs today. She has a parti rock bantam and if the other one is fertile it's a dutch/OEGB mix. I may give her one more tomorrow but last year she left her chicks early so not real sure about her mothering skills. The rock egg may not be fertile either.

 

[Miss Molly]

I took my Australorps and Black Penes outside yesterday! The little one in the middle is a two week old Black Pene. The Australorps are three weeks old. What a Ham this one is! A week makes a big difference in Size! I have a video encoding and will post it when it is ready!(kidding here--The Australorps are big old Show Quality birds. The Black Pene on the right will get big for a Pene but will not be like an Australorp).

Very Cute Ron, Blue Australorps... I bet they are going to grow out stunning

 

[ronott1]

Hi Ron:

You have mentioned the lockdown thing at day 19 now a couple of times and I am curious as to why? Just one more day at lower humidity? Easier to keep humidity up longer during a longer hatch since going locking down a day later?

I have candled a couple of times and I have a bator full of all kinds of things. Shipped eggs, local eggs, dark eggs, light eggs, big eggs, little eggs, rough texture, waxy texture, etc. I am noticing that the white eggs are developing a bigger air cell than some of the other colors. Makes me a little concerned theirs will get too big, but some of the other eggs have a much smaller air cell in comparison and a little worried theirs will not get big enough.

Not much I can really do about it anyway at this point, but interesting to note.

I took out 5 non developers. One CL, one Polish, one Basque, one Wheaten Ameracauna and one Blue or Lavender English Orp. One blood ring on an Ameracauna.

My humidity goes up to 45% with just a tiny bit of water but doesn't last long so humidity ranges from 50-25% over a 2 day period. I didn't have such high humidity with the quail eggs. Couldn't get above 65% for anything. With all the tanks full I should be able to now for lock down.

Sorry to ramble, just like to be able to discuss this with people that actually understand what I am saying.

Thoughts? Recommendations? Since the whites are getting sort of big air cells I hate to leave the humidity at 25% until Thurs or Friday. Friday would be day 19.

Yes for both reasons and especially for late hatchers like Marans--Humidity and to make sure they get the air cell the correct size. Marans need more time but all eggs can benefit from waiting. My best hatches have been when they pip before I get them into the hatcher. One of the big hatching experts on the hatching threads(Super Chemical Girl, Chooks Chicks or Happy Chooks) waits until they see the first pip and then locks them down. I am not that brave, so I lock down on day 19.