My big girls molted in December, the bantys started in October. If they are that bald I would start searching for the saddles for the girls unless someone has a link for you.
California - Northern
- Thread starter Nifty-Chicken
- Start date
Received the results from the CAHFS fecal test on my flock. All it says is "Low numbers of Heterakis sp eggs detected" and "Results Heterakis Rare #"
Usually, I have my vet go over any results from the lab and explain. But, my vet doesn't do chickens. Can you ask the lab questions?
I did try to research Heterakis sp. I'm wondering is "low numbers and rare #" mean normal or lower than normal? Or do I need to treat them? I don't want to treat them unless necessary.
There's also a secondary stage that can result in blackhead. I'm hoping that is not the case here because I want turkeys someday.
Overall, I'm happy with the results. I have had chickens here for 13 years and have NEVER wormed the hens. Yet, (almost) no parasite issues. Same with my hogs, which is very unusual. I think that my multi species rotational grazing system helps keep the parasites from becoming an issue. Basically, the critters get moved around a lot so the parasite load doesn't build up in one spot.
Usually, I have my vet go over any results from the lab and explain. But, my vet doesn't do chickens. Can you ask the lab questions?
I did try to research Heterakis sp. I'm wondering is "low numbers and rare #" mean normal or lower than normal? Or do I need to treat them? I don't want to treat them unless necessary.
There's also a secondary stage that can result in blackhead. I'm hoping that is not the case here because I want turkeys someday.
Overall, I'm happy with the results. I have had chickens here for 13 years and have NEVER wormed the hens. Yet, (almost) no parasite issues. Same with my hogs, which is very unusual. I think that my multi species rotational grazing system helps keep the parasites from becoming an issue. Basically, the critters get moved around a lot so the parasite load doesn't build up in one spot.
This was posted in the Cinco De Mayo Turkey hatch a long thread so I ma posting it here for Pam and others that are interested in weighing eggs during incubation.
Table 1 – Hatching conditions showing weight loss for different species.
An Example Weight Loss Calculation.
The following example shows how this method can be put into practice when hatching chickens. Chickens have a 21 day incubation period and an ideal weight loss at the point of pipping of 13%.
Set the incubator to the correct temperature (in this case 37.5°C), and allow it to settle for a few hours, then, set it to the correct humidity for the species (in this case 45%).
Allow 24 hours for everything to settle. During this time, if eggs have travelled through the post, leave them to rest and to reach room temperature. Store them pointed end facing downwards.
On day 1, number the eggs with a soft pencil to identify them. Weigh all eggs before putting them into the incubator with a digital scale. Record the results:
Calculate the average batch weight, to do this, add up all of the weights, then divide this number by the total number of eggs so for the example eggs above this is:
(62.5 + 65 + 64.5 + 60 + 59 + 65.5) / 6 eggs = 62.75g Average
Next, allow the eggs to come up to temperature in the incubator. This can take up to 24 hours, now, check and make fine adjustments to the humidity again.
After 3 to 4 days, weigh the eggs again and record the results, taking the average weight of the eggs again.
There are now two ways of calculating the weight loss. The first is to draw a graph which shows the ideal weight loss line, plotted from Day 1 (62.75g) to Day 21 (62.75g – 13% = 54.6g) then whenever you weigh the eggs at 3 to 4 day intervals in between, plot the average weight to see how close it is to the ideal weight loss line.
The second method is to calculate what the average weight loss should be on the day that you weigh the eggs so if you weigh the eggs on Day 4, the ideal weight loss will be: 13% / 21 Days = 0.62% loss from the original weight on day 1, 1.24% of the original weight loss on day 2 and so on.
Take the average weight of your eggs every 3 to 4 days and make fine humidity adjustments as necessary until the last couple of days before the hatch when the humidity should be increased to the recommended level (greater than 65% for chicken eggs) to help soften the egg shells before piping.
Remember: If the actual weight loss is greater than ideal, the humidity level has been too low and it needs to be increased to compensate. If the weight loss is less than ideal then the air has been too humid and the humidity will need to be reduced to compensate.
After candling, it can be necessary to remove eggs that are infertile. This has little effect on the average weight calculation if all of the eggs are of a similar weight. Be cautious though, if you are only incubating a few eggs at a time or the eggs are different in weight (different breeds of chicken eggs for example) as there can be a noticeable shift in the average weight of the eggs that causes unnecessary humidity corrections. The only sure way to avoid this is to go back and re-calculate the start and end average weights using only the fertile eggs. In this situation, method 2 becomes easier to re-visit than the graphed method 1.
One final remark is that you should ideally weigh the eggs at roughly the same time every day to get the most accurate results if you are using whole days in the calculation, although I suppose there would be nothing stopping you including a part day in the calculation.
Species
Incubation Period (Days)
Ideal Weight Loss Over Incubation Period
ApproximateHumidity
Incubation Temperature
Incubation Temperature
Turn Angle
Chicken 21
13%
40 to 50%
37.5°C
90°
Runner Duck 28.5
14-15%
35 to 40%
37.3°C
90°
Call Duck 26
13%
35 to 40%
37.3°C
90°
Geese 28 to 35
Depending on breed
13%
Depending on breed
13%
35 to 40%
37.2°C
180°
Ostrich 40-43
12-15%
20 to 40%
36.4°C
90°
Table 1 – Hatching conditions showing weight loss for different species.
An Example Weight Loss Calculation.
The following example shows how this method can be put into practice when hatching chickens. Chickens have a 21 day incubation period and an ideal weight loss at the point of pipping of 13%.
Set the incubator to the correct temperature (in this case 37.5°C), and allow it to settle for a few hours, then, set it to the correct humidity for the species (in this case 45%).
Allow 24 hours for everything to settle. During this time, if eggs have travelled through the post, leave them to rest and to reach room temperature. Store them pointed end facing downwards.
On day 1, number the eggs with a soft pencil to identify them. Weigh all eggs before putting them into the incubator with a digital scale. Record the results:
Egg Number
Weight(Grammes)
1
1
62.5
2
2
65
3
3
64.5
4
4
60
5
5
59
6
6
65.5
Calculate the average batch weight, to do this, add up all of the weights, then divide this number by the total number of eggs so for the example eggs above this is:
(62.5 + 65 + 64.5 + 60 + 59 + 65.5) / 6 eggs = 62.75g Average
Next, allow the eggs to come up to temperature in the incubator. This can take up to 24 hours, now, check and make fine adjustments to the humidity again.
There are now two ways of calculating the weight loss. The first is to draw a graph which shows the ideal weight loss line, plotted from Day 1 (62.75g) to Day 21 (62.75g – 13% = 54.6g) then whenever you weigh the eggs at 3 to 4 day intervals in between, plot the average weight to see how close it is to the ideal weight loss line.
The second method is to calculate what the average weight loss should be on the day that you weigh the eggs so if you weigh the eggs on Day 4, the ideal weight loss will be: 13% / 21 Days = 0.62% loss from the original weight on day 1, 1.24% of the original weight loss on day 2 and so on.
Take the average weight of your eggs every 3 to 4 days and make fine humidity adjustments as necessary until the last couple of days before the hatch when the humidity should be increased to the recommended level (greater than 65% for chicken eggs) to help soften the egg shells before piping.
Remember: If the actual weight loss is greater than ideal, the humidity level has been too low and it needs to be increased to compensate. If the weight loss is less than ideal then the air has been too humid and the humidity will need to be reduced to compensate.
After candling, it can be necessary to remove eggs that are infertile. This has little effect on the average weight calculation if all of the eggs are of a similar weight. Be cautious though, if you are only incubating a few eggs at a time or the eggs are different in weight (different breeds of chicken eggs for example) as there can be a noticeable shift in the average weight of the eggs that causes unnecessary humidity corrections. The only sure way to avoid this is to go back and re-calculate the start and end average weights using only the fertile eggs. In this situation, method 2 becomes easier to re-visit than the graphed method 1.
One final remark is that you should ideally weigh the eggs at roughly the same time every day to get the most accurate results if you are using whole days in the calculation, although I suppose there would be nothing stopping you including a part day in the calculation.
Feather quality issues? What would cause something like that? The hens that are mated those most are 1 of the EEs from you, 1 of heaven sents BO hens, and 2 of hers that came directly from Don Chandler. Two of the other Buffs have minor feather loss - it's only in the saddle area on 3 and the 1 BO from heaven sent is the one that was mated like crazy - when we had the BO roo he loved her way too much (he became supper), my top roo is flat out not all that nice to her for some reason and my Marans roo likes to mate her a lot. I've checked for lice and mites. I wormed back in February. She is also the only one that pecks me if I reach under her to check for eggs. They are very well fed. Flockraiser mixed with whole oats and whole wheat. Free choice oyster shell. Water with acv. Free ranged and a few times a week they are given organic produce in small amounts. Am I doing anything wrong?
Quote:
I'll have to post updated pictures.
Chicks
These are a couple of juvenile paint silkies.................just picture naked necks on the SG.
The spots increase in size as they mature.
Oh and I recently started sprinkling on BOSS. About a week ago. Which wouldn't affect them lol but the rest I have been doing for quite a while. I have baby birds ranging with the big birds so I can't feed layer.
- Mar 18, 2012
- 3,234
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A little slice of my life 
This is my husband, Tom. When he gets home after work he likes to sit on the couch, open the french doors and have a snack. The girls will usually walk right in the open door. Tom is not opposed to sharing his string cheese so guess who figured that out?
If he holds it above his head she will climb on his shoulder to get at it. She has no manners....what the picture doesn't show is the three dogs, sitting patiently on the floor waiting for a treat and wondering why THAT ONE gets away with such bad behavior.
ETA her name is Della...really clever I know...but she is the sweetest funniest hen in the coop also the one who laid the egg in the egg and other anomalies.
This is my husband, Tom. When he gets home after work he likes to sit on the couch, open the french doors and have a snack. The girls will usually walk right in the open door. Tom is not opposed to sharing his string cheese so guess who figured that out?
If he holds it above his head she will climb on his shoulder to get at it. She has no manners....what the picture doesn't show is the three dogs, sitting patiently on the floor waiting for a treat and wondering why THAT ONE gets away with such bad behavior.
ETA her name is Della...really clever I know...but she is the sweetest funniest hen in the coop also the one who laid the egg in the egg and other anomalies.
Last edited:
Feather quality within breeds or different breeds. Some strains have more brittle feathers so the feather quality is not as good. It is genetics and not the care given so you are not doing anything wrong. The Saddles are a good idea. One thing to try is to keep the Roosters in a separate pen and limit the time they are with the hens until you get the saddles for them.
Was the BO Rooster tasty? Did you make enchiladas?
Thanks Ron!
He's right about feather quality and it being genetic.
Really cute, Tommysgirl. That is one spoiled chicken!
I just got such incredibly exciting news! It's a secret for now because I'm afraid of jinxing it. Hopefully I will have some very exciting photos in the near future.
He's right about feather quality and it being genetic.
Really cute, Tommysgirl. That is one spoiled chicken!
I just got such incredibly exciting news! It's a secret for now because I'm afraid of jinxing it. Hopefully I will have some very exciting photos in the near future.
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