It's almost time! Duck buyers unite!

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Bridger Davis

Songster
Jul 25, 2017
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Evans Colorado
Hey everyone! It just dawned on me that in a few months, it will be time to buy ducks!!! I thought anyone buying ducks in the coming spring could use this thread to ask questions and we can all help each other out! I'll start it off with my first question. What can be done now to prepare for my ducks that are likely coming in March?
 
Does anyone have experience with Metzer's production birds, white layer, golden hybrid, etc.? Do production birds burn out faster? What I mean is while they may lay a lot of eggs in a year, will they continue to lay for as many years? Are there more problems because they are bred for production or less problems because they are hybrids? Any thoughts on this?

Every bird hatched with all the yolks it will ever have - it does not make more over its life. So, once it runs through those yolks, it won't be able to lay any more of them. A production bird has been designed to lay them as fast as it can, and it won't necessarily have more of them to use. So a production bird may go through most of its yolks in the first couple years, and then afterwards it won't have any more to lay and it may only lay sporadically, if at all. Does that make sense? That's fine for egg farms, etc, because once a bird is done laying well, they kill it. So it works great for them because they only have to feed it for about two years while it lays a lot of eggs, and then when it slows down they sell it off for meat.

And, because they lay so many eggs so quickly, they are much more prone to reproductive issues and cancers than birds that lay at a more leisurely pace.
 
Niacin is mainly for development. After they are fully grown,( I would say at about 6-9 weeks) they should no longer need niacin. A general rule of thumb for feed is that they need a 20% protein starter chick feed with brewer's yeast for niacin for the first ten weeks of their lives. Then, they need a 15% protein grower for 10-18 weeks old. Finally, you will use a layer feed with 16% protein for the rest of their lives after 18 weeks. In a separate container or mixed in with the feed, oyster shell should be made available. Personally, I would stick with a non-medicated chicken feed because ducks eat more than chickens and they could over-medicate themselves. All that I have read suggests against medicated chick feed. Do your own research though and decide for yourself. Hope this helps! Looking forward to ordering my babies in early Jan and hopefully getting them in March! :ya:ya:ya:ya:ya:jumpy:jumpy:jumpy
 
Mixed feelings about this, I have used chick starter medicated with no problems. It even talks about medicated in Storey's Guide about using it (with other options too) which is like the bible for duck raising. I use the starter feed and now on the flock raiser and will start using layer feed mixed with it, all purina brand. When it came to medicated the ducklings I did not use medicated with were my problem ones but could of been bad genetics, niacin deficient as well. I supplemented niacin in their water, I still give them some now (not an expert on it). The ducklings I have used with medicated feed, I had no problems what so ever. If there is a reason not for ducks to be medicated please educate me, from the posts I have seen there is no proof against it.
This becomes too heated but I have information from a university vet and Duck hatchery to not use medicated Chick starter so I only reply as to what schooled people recommend ...
 
:pop

Still up in the air about ducks.... I've never eaten a duck egg, so ducks that lay a lot isn't high on my list.... I'd like ones that are pretty and don't need a lake to be happy... maybe a kiddie swimming pool.

Ducks are not for everyone....Messy, wet and Messy again..extremely sexual and busy little Birds...Like having Puppies that play in water...
 
Call ducks would be a great idea for pets, if the neighbors don't mind the loud quacking... Mallards are very friendly ducks. Campbells are friendly but don't always like to be handled. Runners are energetic, but friendly. East Indie Ducks are bantam sized like call ducks, but are quieter and much harder to find. I could go on about the duck breeds you could choose from.
 
I'm not an expert by any means, and I know this wasn't a direct question, but I'm going to add this tip also. Ducks need a source of water right next to their food. They have to clear out their nostrils as they eat. I have found that they are MUCH more messy with their water if you just give them the little chicken waterers (they try to put their whole head in it & well... it doesn't fit, so they flip the water everywhere with their bills trying to clear their nostrils!) I really recommend a bowl of water for them so they can submerge their whole head easily. That being said, the description of puppies that play in water is super accurate! :lau They will get water everywhere anyway, but they will be happier if they can submerge their bills!
I never needed Niacin, so I can't comment on that, but I used an All Flock Chick Starter crumble with both my ducks and chicks.
 

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