***OKIES in the BYC III ***

Quote:
Mitzi,
This has been a common problem this year with the extreme heat, lack of moisture and feed quality this year. I know of several showmen who have little to show until the next molt due to feather quality. I have 1 friend who has birds breaking feathers by running tails and wings into the cages. they are very brittle from lack of moisture and the heat.
 
Hey all thanks for the warm welcome and the good advice.


I have some questions about over-winter care and temps and all that are okie-centric. I have only been chicken-y since early last spring so I am a little scared of deep winter.

Anyone want to primer me on central Oklahoma chicken over-wintering in poorly constructed coops? We built our coop to withstand the drought temps (ventilation!) and now I am wondering how much shelter they need...the poorly-constructed coop is made of 3/4" ply for the wind blowing stuff away....but should the roost be wind tight? heated as needed? shall I zip-tie some plastic sheeting on the chicken wire for additional windbreaks? Just add hay? Caulk till my hand is sore? Do they just acclimate and only need special attention during certain temps?

What if you are brooding in winter and the power goes out? are there any options other than cuddling/generators for emergency chicken warmth?

should I stock up on anything?

Anxiously awaiting your sage advice,

Kelly
 
Quote:
Mitzi,
This has been a common problem this year with the extreme heat, lack of moisture and feed quality this year. I know of several showmen who have little to show until the next molt due to feather quality. I have 1 friend who has birds breaking feathers by running tails and wings into the cages. they are very brittle from lack of moisture and the heat.

I wondered about it being the heat. I got him at Mary's swap but he's still way furrier, calmer & friendlier than my hatchery Silkies. I know nothing about quality, my specialty is temperament
smile.png
And he's A+ there.
 
This is what makes the silkie a silkie! It should be silky and fluffy with hair-like feathers throughout. The feathers should be profuse and thick, and cover the thighs, run down the shanks and cover the middle and outer toes. There should be an absence of hard feathering. The wings are describes as ‘osprey’ feathered which can confuse people; the wings should certainly not be like those of an osprey – they should be ragged with some of the flight feathers hanging loosely down, almost tattered.

http://poultrykeeper.com/silkie/the-silkie/exhibiting-silkies-the-breed-standard.html

http://www.hattricksilkies.net/articles_split_wing.html

•Wings: Medium size, closely folded, carried well back and nearly horizontal, well above the lower thighs ending short of stern. Shoulders and fronts: concealed
by hackles and breast feathers. Bows and coverts: Very well rounded. Primaries: medium length, well shredded, tapering convexly to stern, tips concealed by
saddle feathers. http://www.harvestbreezefarm.com/Silkie.html

Shredding on the wing feathers is not only normal, it's one thing I look for on a showbird. Ideally they should be shredded 1/3 up the primary feathers. This isn't a sign of any problem,.. welcome to the wonderful world of silkies.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=5814671#p5814671
 
About all they need is a draft-free enviroment but if it gets as cold this winter as it did last hanging a heat lamp wouldn't hurt either. Even in winter they will need ventilation to keep humidity from building up.

We have covered bantam pens with heavy drapes, (garage sale find) and I have duct taped shower curtains over pens to cut the wind as well.

If power goes out while brooding just cover the brooder with blankets for short term. Long term outages they will need a back-up source of heat. We have a generator that can be hooked up but I would hate to feed that thing at today's gas prices!

Feather legged breeds from my experiance don't do as well as the clean legged breeds do as far as their feet and toes freezing and as Carl has mentioned the Modern Games can freeze their legs easily.

The roosts should be a 2x4 laid flat, that way when they roost and settle they cover their toes with the breast and keep them warm. A hen will seldom get a frozen comb because she will tuck here head under her wing while it is rare for a rooster to tuck their heads and so their combs can freeze.

Then there is the need to keep fresh unfrozen water to them. You can buy heated water bases or even heated waterers.

And here is what I think is the most important thing to do if you hang a heat lamp, NEVER use the clamp on the base to hold the light. ALWAYS use a chain that is securely nailed or screwed into something substantial. The light can fall and cause a fire if it falls into bedding of any kind.

Also keep at least one spare heat lamp bulb. Ever try to find one on Christmas Eve about midnight? It wasn't fun.
 
Okay thought I'd post pics of the icelandic fowl.
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I said the roo was a dirty splash color,after a closer look he is "dirty" and splash in color and will look a whole lot better once he moults. They haven't had the best of care I don't think but have a lot of potential. I can trace their line back to "The Warden" Mary who started the icelandic thread in just three generations so feel pretty good about their lineage. Still no sign of the roo that escaped. Her just dispearred so I imagine a coyote got him.
 
Faeri here is a pic of our new Kitten Spaz!
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Yes she is as mean as she looks!lol
Her and Issy. They actually sleep touching each other now. But still have to fight it out at least three times a day! Usually because Spaz ambushes Issy!
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