***OKIES in the BYC III ***

I looked it up online, more affordable then I imagined. Can you use the tips more then once? Like for the whole batch you are C'ing? I couldn't find how much the replacement tips cost.


The tips can be cooled, removed, and sterilized. I think that's what I will do after each batch. The base is reusable. I like that the one I'm getting uses batteries instead of a cord. That makes holding it less difficult for me. Replacement tips are available, but I don't know how much they cost. For less than ten dollars you can get a single-use cautery. Not practical for me, though.

I keep forgetting to send you the list of the tools I've got so far, so here's the list with specific names and sizes:

scalpel handle #3
scalpel blades #10 & #15 - I got both to try. I will probably use the smaller of the two when C-ing younger cockerels
WEITLANER RETRACTOR BLUNT 4" - use as rib spreader
SENN RETRACTOR BLUNT PRONG - use in conjunction with elevator
Bovie Cautery High Temp - to prevent bleeding and prevent slips
Adson Tissue Forceps - use to open membrane after first incision & as an assist to other instruments

I'm thinking about getting straight and curved locking hemostat forceps - There may be a case that screams, "You need to suture this one!"
I also need to redesign what's patterned after an antique horse-hair elevator - I need a smaller tube. I'm considering a length of flexible plastic tubing instead of a rigid plastic tube which acts as a channel to hold and guide the wire that encircles and hold the T as it's lifted.
 
Deb I would also keep them in the coolest place in your house, if you put them into an egg carton you just have to turn the carton. I believe the general rule is you can keep them up to 10 days before the hatch rate starts to drop.

POCO that is one big hen!!!
thumbsup.gif
let us know how she tastes!

I store mine at 60 degrees, tilted at a 45 degree angle, turned once a day. I have been gettin 95% plus hatches setting every two weeks, stored at room temp (70-75) they start dropping quickly at 10 days.
 
The tips can be cooled, removed, and sterilized. I think that's what I will do after each batch. The base is reusable. I like that the one I'm getting uses batteries instead of a cord. That makes holding it less difficult for me. Replacement tips are available, but I don't know how much they cost. For less than ten dollars you can get a single-use cautery. Not practical for me, though.

I keep forgetting to send you the list of the tools I've got so far, so here's the list with specific names and sizes:

scalpel handle #3
scalpel blades #10 & #15 - I got both to try. I will probably use the smaller of the two when C-ing younger cockerels
WEITLANER RETRACTOR BLUNT 4" - use as rib spreader
SENN RETRACTOR BLUNT PRONG - use in conjunction with elevator
Bovie Cautery High Temp - to prevent bleeding and prevent slips
Adson Tissue Forceps - use to open membrane after first incision & as an assist to other instruments

I'm thinking about getting straight and curved locking hemostat forceps - There may be a case that screams, "You need to suture this one!"
I also need to redesign what's patterned after an antique horse-hair elevator - I need a smaller tube. I'm considering a length of flexible plastic tubing instead of a rigid plastic tube which acts as a channel to hold and guide the wire that encircles and hold the T as it's lifted.


I've been mulling over what to make the wire loopy thing out of, I was actually considering using a "gutted" pen. I figured the smaller tip end would be easier in tight spaces.

I looked at the hemostats but got the reverse tweezers instead.

Do you have any pics of your table / restraining set up?
 
DH is working in town tonight. The dogs have been out in the back corner of the woods for the past hour. I wonder what is out there, but after much thought I am going to let the dogs handle it.

Blanchard is this wk right? anyone going? I doubt we will make it. After 2 yrs my sister is finally moving out of one of our Lawton properties. So we have to not only help her move but also get it ready to be rented.

smfamf did you get things worked out with school? Is there another school close by you can consider if you DS doesn't want to do HS?
 
Poco after you have done this a few times, about how long does it take you do do one?

1. Restrain and calm - 2 or 3 minutes
2. Pluck area & disinfect - 2 minutes
3. Apply topical anesthetic and let absorb - 3 to 5 minutes (Some people say this step is pointless, but it steadies my hand because I know there's less pain for the cockerel) Tattoo places have gel to numb skin, and Ambesol, for gum pain, works too.
4. Incise skin, open membrane, locate testes, remove bottom left, remove top right - 5 to 10 minutes. I dropped a part back in on cockerel number three, which is why I say 10 minutes
hmm.png
as the longest time.
5. Remove restraints, check incision, return to rehab cage - 5 minutes

From start to finish it's about 20 minutes. A lot of this time will be reduced with experience, and I'm sure when I have a group rather than a single subject, I will find a more practical way to return my birds to the rehab cage. When I've done just one, I talk to him, watch him for a bit, pick him up and check the incision, then watch a little more. I've got antiseptic hand wipes to use when I have a group for between birds. With just one, I wash before starting, and I have a basin and a bottle of alcohol to rinse my hands after restraining, plucking, but before disinfecting.
 
1. Restrain and calm - 2 or 3 minutes
2. Pluck area & disinfect - 2 minutes
3. Apply topical anesthetic and let absorb - 3 to 5 minutes (Some people say this step is pointless, but it steadies my hand because I know there's less pain for the cockerel) Tattoo places have gel to numb skin, and Ambesol, for gum pain, works too.
4. Incise skin, open membrane, locate testes, remove bottom left, remove top right - 5 to 10 minutes. I dropped a part back in on cockerel number three, which is why I say 10 minutes
hmm.png
as the longest time.
5. Remove restraints, check incision, return to rehab cage - 5 minutes

From start to finish it's about 20 minutes. A lot of this time will be reduced with experience, and I'm sure when I have a group rather than a single subject, I will find a more practical way to return my birds to the rehab cage. When I've done just one, I talk to him, watch him for a bit, pick him up and check the incision, then watch a little more. I've got antiseptic hand wipes to use when I have a group for between birds. With just one, I wash before starting, and I have a basin and a bottle of alcohol to rinse my hands after restraining, plucking, but before disinfecting.
There is a video out there on one of the threads that show a Chinese caponizer he can do a bird in seconds literally, it is quite impressive.
 
I've been mulling over what to make the wire loopy thing out of, I was actually considering using a "gutted" pen. I figured the smaller tip end would be easier in tight spaces.

I looked at the hemostats but got the reverse tweezers instead.

Do you have any pics of your table / restraining set up?

I can take some pictures tomorrow. I have a table and a chair at a comfortable height with a bright desk lamp. I use cinder blocks on the floor at either end of the table as anchors for the restraints rather than using bricks as weights as some websites and literature suggest. I don't know how much stretching a little cockerel can take, so I'd rather just adjust a rope to fit each new bird on the table. I'm thinking about swaddeling the next one to see if a restraining jacket makes sense. It might be calming.
 
I'm aware that I am woefully slow, but I haven't lost any to mishaps, so at least I know I'm not being sloppy. I saw a video of a young man who stood on the feet of a cockerel with his right foot and on the wings with his left foot, and he performed the surgery in this half-standing, half-squatting posture over the bird. He used what looked like a Dollar Store box cutter for the incision. It was fast, but I don't think I ever want to caponize in that manner.
 

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