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Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by chickenlover237, Nov 10, 2011.
Good job and
Roofed and painted!! I still have two walls to cover in back and the enclosure still needs a trench with the hardware cloth. I couldn't wait to start the decorative trim with the maple branches cut in half... bicycle inner tubes work great to lash them down to the sawhorses so they won't turn when I'm cutting them (dangerously) with the circular saw.
Thanks coop! It is tough as nails!
Maybe better to do it on a splitter!! Or use a hatchet to start the split and then a hammer on the back of the hatchet or a wedge to finish the split. I'd really hate to have you posting in the future with only one hand.
Here are some pictures of my coop and run! that coop was bought and is wonderful! Also I made the run myself as a school project for math since I am homeschooled. I know that the coop and run look really bad, lousy, and aren't creative but oh well it work for us! Plus I live in a tiny house and this is in out back yard!
It looks fab I love it bet the chicks love it too
It looks great! Not lousy at all! You did an awesome job.=)
I don't think it looks lousy at all. I bet your chickens love the fresh air and safety it provides. I also like that you matched the run color to the coop. Nice job
All the Mediterranean class of birds like the Ancona, Leghorn, etc. are wonderful birds. I LOVE Leghorns especially but they are a class unto themselves and should only be kept in a mixed Mediterrancean breeds flock with Anconas, Andalusians, etc. All the Mediterranean breeds will be equally matched in temperaments. The largest of the Mediterranean class is the Minorca who surpasses the average 4.5-5 lb Med hen range but still would be okay mixed with other Mediterranean breeds. Just wouldn't put Meds with other classes because as I say they are smart, assertive, active, non-shrinking violets in a flock. The Meds are also terrific layers because they are non-broody. However, most newbies want a "colorful" egg basket and the white eggs bore them so they start throwing in EEs, Ameraucanas, Marans, Brahmas, Welsummers, Sussex, Polish, Orps, 'Lorps, Faverolles, Dominiques, RIRs, NHRs, BRs, etc into the flock, also throwing in a Silkie and bantam Cochin because they are "so cute" not realizing what they will be dealing with when all the different breeds reach full maturity between 18 months and 2 years old. Now I said the Meds are non-broody - but guess what? About 2% of Leghorns will go broody and I had one this past 6 weeks. She was the one who came out of her broody and started asserting herself against the other 3 hens and is sadly rehomed now. As you said, live and learn,
Chantecler are a skittish nervous bunch from the videos I've watched of them which is why I didn't try them. Everyone seems to love their BAs but they are way too large for my smaller sized hens. Chanties are shy jittery types that are not too human friendly. Some breeds like Ameraucanas, EEs, Dominiques, and BRs actually seem to like interacting with their humans but Chanties do not. I didn't realize Chanties were broody types either.
Having to deal with notoriously broody Silkies (and one surprise Buff Leghorn broody) I found their raging hormones during broody sessions causes a lot of squabbling and fights protecting their imaginary nest eggs. Broodies are just naturally crabby until they snap out of brooding and get normal again. We find that isolating broodies in a separate broody pen solves a lot of fighting issues and keeps them safe from injuries if they aren't fighting. Sometimes broodies will nest together occasionally as in the case of Silkies or bantam Doms - but it's not common unless the two broodies were sisters or same age chicks growing up together. I've seen as many as 3 bantam broodies share a clutch of eggs and share rearing the chicks but that is not the norm. When one of our Silkies or in our case the one Buff Leg goes broody the other hens tend to leave them alone in the nestbox. Only our sweet ditzy klutzy Ameraucana dares to approach a broody nestbox to lay her egg and somehow manages to sit next to a crabby broody (Amers are non-combative and ours just ignores other irascible hens). Some broodies actually welcome another hen's egg to tuck under her to set. That's why it's so important to quickly remove other hens' newly layed eggs. We had a Silkie so determined to brood we found her sitting on a cucumber slice in the nest!
I have stopped trying to break broodies. Silkies, Amers, EEs, and Legs are such prolific layers that it's my feeling that Mother Nature gives these breeds a broody session rest from laying so many eggs. It is nutritionally stressful on the bodies of these small animals to keep laying eggs day after day (like giving birth everyday!) so I let them have their 3 or 4 week broody session rest in an empty nestbox (we have no roos so none of our eggs are fertile anyway). During their broody session we make sure to take them out of their box 2 or 3 times daily to eat/drink/dust-bath and give them a drop on the side of their beak (not down the throat) of Poly-Vi-Sol no iron children's liquid vitamin for supplementation about 1-2 times a week as they tend not to eat enough during brooding. Because they are setting so much we Poultry Protector (organic) spray the bird (directions on label) to discourage the invitation for lice/mites in the warm nestbox. If after the 5th or 6th week the broody is not over her broody session we lock her out of the brooding pen. She won't like it and gets agitated wanting to get back inside but in a couple-three days she forgets about it and returns to "normal." It takes her a couple-three weeks to get back to regular laying again.
Guess you know this by now but I'll mention it for other readers: A hen's output of eggs diminishes 20% average each year. Example: If a hen lays 200 eggs her first year, she'll lay 180 eggs the second, and 20% less the third year for approx 144 eggs, and so on and so on. From Sandhill Preservation statistics the only layer that is just as good the 2nd year as their 1st year are the Ameraucanas (not sure if this is inclusive of EEs though). Our White Leghorn layed about 6 times a week but in her second year it was sometimes 5 times a week so even the mighty White Leg slows down production each year. We are keeping a record of our Blue Wheaten Ameraucana (my avatar) to see how her 1st year will compare with the 2nd.
Hope your girls don't injure each other. Putting a crabby hen in a roomy wire cage elevated a bit off the ground/floor with no bedding cools them down and sometimes breaks them of their broody in 2-3 days - that is if you want to break them. I just let nature take its course and isolate them like they seem to isolate themselves naturally when in an open barnyard setting - coming out on their own occasionally for water and food to quickly return to their nest.
@mrsfluff100 Echoing what those ahead of me said: That coop looks just fine, and the run looks more than adequate for the number of bantams you have. I'm sure they are quite happy with both! Also nice to see hardware cloth all around, and buried as well as reinforced with concrete blocks! Very nice and secure! I would make one small change though if I were you... I would replace those little slide locks with actual hasp type closures and use a carabiner clip. I have seen animals open the little locks that you have in no time at all.