Prefab coops that (mostly) don't suck under $1000

[3KillerBs]

Now that I've seen what you're looking at, let me show you a few things from my collection of links to well-designed coops.

Remember your sizes -- for 4 chickens you need:

• 16 square feet in the coop. 4'x4' is the only really practical build for this given the common dimensions of lumber.
• 4 feet of roost
• 40 square feet in the run. 4'x10' or 5'x8'. 6'x6' is a bit too small, 6'x8' is more generous and easier to build than 5'x8'.
• 4 square feet of ventilation. A 2'x2' window is theoretically enough, but in practice doesn't create any air FLOW so better to spread the venting around (and even better to exceed the minimums, especially in warm climates).
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

First, my own small coop. It takes a little more handyman knowledge to build than some designs, but it's absolutely draft-free if you cover the window next to the nests in the winter and came through Hurricane Florence bone-dry inside except for a branch falling on the nest box and damaging the roof. https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-little-monitor-coop.76275/

I strongly recommend a full-height attached run instead of a half-high one. The short run is a killer on your back and last summer I ended up with a bunch of staples in my scalp after hitting my head on a hook inside my brooder.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/dallas-urban-coop-single-slope-design.72422/ This is similar to the one you linked, but with a better roof slope and upper-level ventilation. Those vents and windows would benefit from top-hinged covers in a wetter climate than Dallas.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/yakisugi-coop.76398/ One of the most thoughtfully-designed coops on this website, perhaps anywhere. It's probably not what you want, but it's a good read to show how to make design decisions and has extraordinarily-good ventilation for such a small coop.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/coreys-coop-de-doop.55619/ Another coop-and-run combo. Again, the venting would benefit from top-hinged covers to keep weather out in season.

 

[SheaLoner]

So I would probably predator proof the whole run, like you mentioned, then just leave the coop door open all the time, so they can regulate themselves going inside or outside. Then put roosts outside too. Will chickens use the equivalent of a dog/cat door that swings freely, to help with winter drafts?

In winter we do get a lot of north wind, so I'd probably put up some sort of wind break on the northern side in winter. Even if it's just a tarp or something

I have used feed sacks as door "curtains" to keep some weather out of small coops. I did have to show them how to use it but they didnt have any trouble after that.

 

[NatJ]

It would probably be more practical to make removable wall panels to add in the winter than to have, essentially, separate winter and summer quarters.

Not really more work, if the run would already have a roof and be predator proofed.

It's just another way to think of what is already planned: think of them as sleeping in the "run" in the summer, and maybe put a nestbox out there, rather than think of them as sleeping in the "coop" for summer.

 

[3KillerBs]

Not really more work, if the run would already have a roof and be predator proofed.

It's just another way to think of what is already planned: think of them as sleeping in the "run" in the summer, and maybe put a nestbox out there, rather than think of them as sleeping in the "coop" for summer.

It seems to me a waste of the coop space to not have it usable all year.

Likewise the run space.

But you know how much I like my over-sized facilities and how much trouble they've saved me over the past two years -- I'll always err on the side of offering more space if I can.

 

[FC16]

I think coop 3 could cause some issues with the chickens sleeping in the boxes as they like to find the highest point to sleep at in my experience

 

[ChickenOfSpades]

Ventilation is going to be CRITICAL for you then and you may want to plan arrangements to have additional summer vents that can be covered in the winter (without ever going below the recommended minimums).

Chickens readily tolerate cold down to and even below 0F if they're kept dry and out of the wind, but they suffer in heat -- starting in the mid-80's unless acclimated to a hot climate (while northern chickens are under heat stress on a 90F day my chickens here in the Steamy Southeast think of that as a cool day in June, July, or August).

You will probably want to check your state thread to see if people in your area find misting systems useful during the peak of summer.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

That coop that @NatJ suggested has no ventilation whatsoever so you have to plan to modify it. You need to create airFLOW, moving hot, stale, ammonia-laden air out the top and clean, fresh air in to replace it.

View attachment 3084369
The easiest thing is probably to, if at all possible, not install any siding on the wall between the coop and run and then create a vent at the gable peak opposite -- covering it with hardware cloth for security and, potentially, installing an awning to keep weather out.

This will require securing the run with 1/2" hardware cloth and an anti-dig apron, but you'll need to do that anyway.

So since it sounds like heat will be the bigger problem for me, what just something like this pen? https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/producers-pride-universal-poultry-pen-8-ft-x-8-ft-cr0808#
I'd probably at least put a tarp or something over half of the roof for some shelter, but otherwise it's just a big open-air pen. I can't tell exactly how large the holes are in the bottom portion - what modifications (if any) would it take to make predator proof?

 

[3KillerBs]

So since it sounds like heat will be the bigger problem for me, what just something like this pen? https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/producers-pride-universal-poultry-pen-8-ft-x-8-ft-cr0808#
I'd probably at least put a tarp or something over half of the roof for some shelter, but otherwise it's just a big open-air pen. I can't tell exactly how large the holes are in the bottom portion - what modifications (if any) would it take to make predator proof?

Many people who use those or the dog-kennel version will cover the wire with 1/2" hardware cloth because the 2x4 wire allows raccoons to do reach-throughs (they'll pull a bird through the wire bit-by-bit), and allows rats, weasels, and snakes to slip right through the openings.

If you want to use it as a summer coop and not just a run you'll need to not only roof it, wholly or partially, but to provide a 3-sided shelter on the windward end. Tarps can do this effectively on a temporary setup.

 

[SheaLoner]

So since it sounds like heat will be the bigger problem for me, what just something like this pen? https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/producers-pride-universal-poultry-pen-8-ft-x-8-ft-cr0808#
I'd probably at least put a tarp or something over half of the roof for some shelter, but otherwise it's just a big open-air pen. I can't tell exactly how large the holes are in the bottom portion - what modifications (if any) would it take to make predator proof?

I personally like these and the dog kennels for a semi permanent coop. If you need the whole space for a run you can build or place the coop outside and just cut in a pop door between the 2. Easy to tarp, shade cloth, wind breaks. Just easy.

 

[ChickenOfSpades]

Many people who use those or the dog-kennel version will cover the wire with 1/2" hardware cloth because the 2x4 wire allows raccoons to do reach-throughs (they'll pull a bird through the wire bit-by-bit), and allows rats, weasels, and snakes to slip right through the openings.

If you want to use it as a summer coop and not just a run you'll need to not only roof it, wholly or partially, but to provide a 3-sided shelter on the windward end. Tarps can do this effectively on a temporary setup.

How far up the sides would the hardware cloth need to be placed? How to you mitigate the gaps around doors and such?

 

[3KillerBs]

How far up the sides would the hardware cloth need to be placed? How to you mitigate the gaps around doors and such?

That gets tricky.

To prevent reach-throughs I usually see it recommended to have the hardware cloth up about 2 feet.

But to keep rats, snakes, and weasels out you need to cover everything, including wrapping it around the gaps at the corners and fastening it to the door and door opening in such a way that it overlaps securely when closed.

I'm afraid I can't think of anyone to tag who has that kind of setup for you to see photos.