Raising and Growing Our Organic and Not- So-Organic Foods

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Notes from a novice----

Sspraying is a PITA. If you dont want to spray, look for resistant varieties. For apples there are aobut 20 developed from the univeristies bred for resitance to the 4 major a pple diseases. The amount of resistance varies between each variety.

Dont know of peaches and pit fruits that are truely resistant to brown rot. A rare few. So I am spraying for brown rot.

Sprayer--a 2 gallon sprayer is VERY HEAVY!! Consider a smaller model. ANd refill if necessary.

I used a tiny food scale, as I had an extra. Measureed 2.35 oz into a pint size cottage cheese continer. Added water and stirred to make a smooth paste. A bit lumpy. Let sit. Stirred again. Let sit.

Read instructions for sprayer. Assembled.
Checked gasket to make sure it was greased.
Put in water and pretended to spray.
Open top to put in concentrate.
Pour in carefully, rinse container several times, dumping into sprayer each time. Used spoon to stir each time. Store clean spoon and container in safe place marked for copper mixing only.
Brought outside to faucet and added about a gallon. Swirlled container. Filled to 2 gal level. Use caution-I was paying attention and still put in too much water.

DO NOT carry by pump handle, use straps.

MUST have full body coverage--hoodie, face mask, gloves, long sleeeve, long pants, tall rubber boots.
NOT the hottest day all spring! I could not finish as I was too hot.

Stripped clothes to wash, and then showered washing hair and using soap. Clothes-- I took off insisde out to not get residue in the house.

Spraying-- a calm day, stand so wind doesnt blow mist on you. DOnt stand under limb and spray up--it just fell on me.

When sprayer started to drip--pump it up again.

Old bark is craggy--must go slow to get in ALL the cracks-- brown rot is a spore aka tiny.
Spray into each flower--that is where bees will introduce the spores ( or am I confusing that with fireblight?)

Really hard to keep track of which branch completed. Needed ladder to reach highest branches----so NOT complete job yet.

Good reason to keep height of trees to within reach--which is plan for new peach trees.
Keep all pets out of area while working.
And send kids to Grandma's house !

Spray needs 4 hours to dry, and a longer drying time is better apparently. WOuld consider finishing in evening when NO rain is due overnight or next day.

Needs spraying every 5-7 days!!!! OMG :th


Will continue to look for more organic options....
 
Wow....

I'm hoping to avoid all sprays. I had read some folks that allowed their chickens to run the orchard area. It was an already established orchard that had years of bugs.

They started letting the chickens in. They will clean up under the trees and can take care of many of the worms that drop to become the new bugs next round. Their assessment in an established orchard was that it was the third season when they finally had very limited insect damage.

I'm hoping that, if I let my chickens run the area from their initial planting, that it may prevent the problem from the start.

As far as fungus, blight,etc., not sure on that except perhaps to plant in permaculture style where the same fruit isn't planted next to each other and there is a variety of different things planted throughout. I really liked those videos that you shared (Stephen). I'm hoping to use some of what I learned there and in his official video as well.
 
Finished spraying this morning. Little wind = much easier. A ladder = more coverage but a PITA. Finished the 2 gallons. Only flowers from bud to fully open and dropping, NO leaves.

WOuld like a wider spray pattern= new nosel . Not sure where to find.

Baby peach whip still thinking about breaking dormancy. Will be interesting to see if it leaves out the same time as the ancient peach trees.
Looked at the 2 old pears. HURAY :celebrate the big tree that was badly eaten by gypsey moths is budding. :eek:

Im rethinking how to kill off all these gypsey moths. Pesticides are becoming an option. After 2 years of devastation, we are waiting to see which trees leaf out so the rest can be cut down. :he
 
http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/hort/g06010.pdf

FULL SPRAY SCHEDULE for stone fruit and apples, which chemical and when to to apply based on development of the buds, fowers and leaves.
test durin
THE BEST SO FAR.

want more organic treatments. In one video the xtension specialist says they test mduring the season and help growers use the most effective treatment.

===============
Here is the list of chemicals broken up into two graphs, heavy duty chemicals and more environment friendly,AND efficacy of each chemical on a specific pest. GREAT DATA THIS IS WHAT I HAVW BEEN SeaRCHING FOR !!!!!

http://plantpathology.ucdavis.edu/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/161048.pdf

=======================

Treatment of Brown Rot
  1. Choose resistant varieties whenever possible.
  2. Prompt removal and destruction of infected plant parts helps breaks the life cycle of the disease in individual trees and small orchards, and may be sufficient to keep brown rot below damaging levels.
  3. It is important to rake up and remove any fallen fruit or debris from under trees.
  4. Prune trees occasionally to improve air circulation. Also, water from below to keep from wetting blossoms, foliage and fruit.
  5. Use Tanglefoot® Pruning Sealer to seal all cuts and wounds and protect against insects and disease organisms.
  6. Ready to use copper fungicides or sulfur powders should be applied weekly to infected trees starting when the blossoms are just beginning to open and continuing throughout the growing season. If at all possible, time applications so that 12 hours of dry weather follows application.
  7. Organocide® Plant Doctor is an earth-friendly systemic fungicide that works its way through the entire plant to combat a large number of diseases on ornamentals, turf, fruit and more. Apply as a foliar spray (1 tsp/ gallon of water) to combat this destructive stone fruit problem.
  8. Containing sulfur and pyrethrins, Bonide® Orchard Spray is a safe, one-hit concentrate for insect attacks and fungal problems. For best results, apply as a protective spray (2.5 oz/ gallon) early in the season. If disease, insects or wet weather are present, mix 5 oz in one gallon of water. Thoroughly spray all parts of the plant, especially new shoots.
Recommended Products

Liquid Copper
Use to combat a wide variety of fungal diseases without toxic poisons!

$18.95$14.95READ MORE

Sulfur Plant Fungicide
Apply as a spray or dust to treat most diseases on fruits, flowers and vegetables.

$9.95$6.95READ MORE

Plant Doctor
An eco-friendly systemic for use on turf, fruit trees, vegetables and more!

$16.95$13.95READ MORE

Orchard Spray
This one-hit product protects against common insect attacks and fungal problems.

$17.95$13.95READ MORE


Pest Problem Solver
 
Last edited:
All this info is really helpful, thanks.

Spraying seems kind of confusing and like a pain though :/

Is it absolutely necessary for fruit trees?
 

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