Swedish Flower Hen Thread

I saw a really neat map of SFH breeders and then lost it. Wondered where it is again? I'm in California, the Central Valley (Modesto).

Mine are from GFF, October of 2013 so they are the bunch that were bred for the big eggs. I have 2 cockerels and 4 hens.

I just got eggs from Papa's Poultry in Redding. Have 11 viable (maybe a couple blood rings, I'm trying not to mess with them). Hoping to get this breeding program started for real!

Love, Love, Love, these birds! I will post pictures again soon. One in particular is so sweet! She hangs around for attention. In fact, she seeks us humans out - a nice change from flighty MFL
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You didn't hear me say that.

This is the sweet one. I think we are naming her Brita. It seems to fit.
 
I saw a really neat map of SFH breeders and then lost it. Wondered where it is again? I'm in California, the Central Valley (Modesto). Mine are from GFF, October of 2013 so they are the bunch that were bred for the big eggs. I have 2 cockerels and 4 hens. I just got eggs from Papa's Poultry in Redding. Have 11 viable (maybe a couple blood rings, I'm trying not to mess with them). Hoping to get this breeding program started for real! Love, Love, Love, these birds! I will post pictures again soon. One in particular is so sweet! She hangs around for attention. In fact, she seeks us humans out - a nice change from flighty MFL :oops: You didn't hear me say that. This is the sweet one. I think we are naming her Brita. It seems to fit.
Gorgeous bird!
 
To all the regulars:
Does anyone here still have the link to the map where all the breeders are?



View
SFH Chain​
in a larger map

if you have a google account, go ahead and log in and add yourself, if you're not already there.
don't get too specific, but maybe pinpoint your local post office, that's what I did.
 
Last edited:
Final hatch count on my eggs from TXFlowers: 29 of 33 hatched. I had one fatality shortly after hatch, leaving me with 28 flower babies!

Thank you to all the posters in this thread who've talked about incubating techniques over. I read this thread through from the start during the last three weeks and all of your tips helped contribute to what I consider to be a FREAKIN' FANTASTIC hatch!
smile.png

Congratulations on an awesome hatch!!
thumbsup.gif
 
Ok help needed.
More SFH & CCL eggs have arrived yesterday.
Eggs will go in the incy, going to let them sit for 48 hrs.

I have the Brinsea Eco 20 with the humidity pump.
It send I can only turn the humidity down to 20%.
Going to try the dry hatch method that you all have recommended.
Should I not plug in the humidity pump until lockdown?
Also since these were shipped eggs should I not start the turner for awhile?
i
Looking to make this a great hatch....advice needed.
Thanks in advance!!
 
Ok help needed.
More SFH & CCL eggs have arrived yesterday.
Eggs will go in the incy, going to let them sit for 48 hrs.

I have the Brinsea Eco 20 with the humidity pump.
It send I can only turn the humidity down to 20%.
Going to try the dry hatch method that you all have recommended.
Should I not plug in the humidity pump until lockdown?
Also since these were shipped eggs should I not start the turner for awhile?
i
Looking to make this a great hatch....advice needed.
Thanks in advance!!

20% humidity is fine.

As far as shipped eggs are concerned, candle the eggs to ascertain the condition of the air sack. If the air sack is completely broken, the outlook is not good. For broken air sacks, I try to incubate for 4-5 days without the turner on. Sometimes the air sack is expanded but not broken, for those eggs, I will incubate for 1-2 days without the turner on.

The point in not turning on the turner right away is to hopefully give the air sack a little time to stabilize and heal. FWIW, I have never had an egg hatch that had a completely broken air sack. For those with expanded air sacks, the success rate has been similar to normal intact air sack hatching eggs. During incubation the air sacks will expand as moisture is necessarily lost from the egg which allows the chick to successfully hatch. So the expanded air sack tends to resolve during the course of incubation. I have 11 blue wheaten/wheaten ameraucana eggs in an incubator on Day 9 that had varying degrees of expanded air sacks. All of these eggs have very active swimmers inside so things are progressing well

This is my approach; others will have variations for what works for them.
 
20% humidity is fine. 

As far as shipped eggs are concerned, candle the eggs to ascertain the condition of the air sack.  If the air sack is completely broken, the outlook is not good.  For broken air sacks, I try to incubate for 4-5 days without the turner on.  Sometimes the air sack is expanded but not broken, for those eggs, I will incubate for 1-2 days without the turner on. 

The point in not turning on the turner right away is to hopefully give the air sack a little time to stabilize and heal.  FWIW, I have never had an egg hatch that had a completely broken air sack.  For those with expanded air sacks, the success rate has been similar to normal intact air sack hatching eggs.  During incubation the air sacks will expand as moisture is necessarily lost from the egg which allows the chick to successfully hatch.  So the expanded air sack tends to resolve during the course of incubation.  I have 11 blue wheaten/wheaten ameraucana eggs in an incubator on Day 9 that had varying degrees of expanded air sacks.  All of these eggs have very active swimmers inside so things are progressing well

This is my approach; others will have variations for what works for them.


Thanks for the info Tony.

Dumb question I know but how can you tell if the air cell is detached?

Barb
 
Thanks for the info Tony.

Dumb question I know but how can you tell if the air cell is detached?

Barb

During candling, you would rotate the egg while observing the bubble that should stay in the top of the fat end of the egg. If bubble follows your rotation, as you turn the egg upside down, then you have a completely broken air sack. If the bubble follows your rotation but stops after a short travel, then you have an expanded air sack. It is worthwhile to rotate the egg while candling in several directions to get a good understanding of the condition of the air sack.

Hope this helps!

Tony
 
Final hatch count on my eggs from TXFlowers: 29 of 33 hatched. I had one fatality shortly after hatch, leaving me with 28 flower babies!

Thank you to all the posters in this thread who've talked about incubating techniques over. I read this thread through from the start during the last three weeks and all of your tips helped contribute to what I consider to be a FREAKIN' FANTASTIC hatch!
smile.png

Awesome!!

clap.gif
 
During candling, you would rotate the egg while observing the bubble that should stay in the top of the fat end of the egg.  If bubble follows your rotation, as you turn the egg upside down, then you have a completely broken air sack.  If the bubble follows your rotation but stops after a short travel, then you have an expanded air sack.  It is worthwhile to rotate the egg while candling in several directions to get a good understanding of the condition of the air sack.

Hope this helps!

Tony


got it thanks
 

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