...I explained to her that I was trying to hit a happy medium between the very short backed Engilsh birds, who are not very good layers, and the SOP type, who are good layers...
Huh?
I haven't noticed my girls with shorter backs producing less?
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...I explained to her that I was trying to hit a happy medium between the very short backed Engilsh birds, who are not very good layers, and the SOP type, who are good layers...
can you explain how you handle them? So they don't struggle?sounds like a good thing for that girl vickie..i learned that years ago and it truly works..they just sit still in your hands..took some practice but i got it..i find it a bit harder with these very big birds for me but we do pretty good..not much if any struggle..you need the bottom half of a fridge box to haul these things in..i used to carry sebrights all over balanced on 1 hand..so took me a while..now i dont even think about it.
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I haven't tested it myself but I have read that the shorter the back is the less eggs they will produce in their life time than a bird with a longer back would. But it also has to do with width of the bird so the wider across the back the more eggs the will produce in their life time...there has to be plenty of room inside for egg making and if there isn't much room there wont be many eggs.
Some do have very thick fluff and some don't, it depends on the breeder and where the birds were sourced. I tend to prefer birds with thick fluff but a fairly upright stance. A lot of breeders breed birds very like Cochins with a low to the ground stance with a lot of cushion on the tail. Those are the birds I don't like. Birds with thin fluff are not very good though. Another problem I have seen lately is orps with incredibly flat chests, I am not liking those either.
There has been a more recent version of the book published in 2008 if anyone wants to see the standard,I have an electronic copy in I pad
Jeremy,Huh?
I haven't noticed my girls with shorter backs producing less?