Woods Fresh-Air coop build

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Beej7

Chirping
Oct 21, 2020
39
111
74
Michigan’s upper peninsula
I’m starting this post to document, and get advice about the chicken coop I’ll be building this summer. This will be my first real construction project and I’ve got very little experience building anything really. But I’ve got a bunch of rough sawn red pine at my disposal and chickens that need a bigger and more winter appropriate coop, so I’m excited to get this project underway hopefully soon.

Some background information: We are in Michigan’s upper peninsula (USDA zone 3/4 border) and get feet of snow and temperatures as cold as -40F in the worst of winters. This coop is a (roughly) 100 year old design that I stumbled across somewhere online. I believe Prince T Woods was the original chicken keeper who came up with this design and utilized it in parts of the Northeastern US and some parts of Ontario. According to his book, chickens did exceptionally well with this open front coop built to his specifications and so we’re giving it a try. Heres a link to an online version of the book. We will be building the 6x10’ coop and primarily using it for winter.

https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=coo.31924003138272&view=1up&seq=1&skin=2021

We’ve still got some snow on the ground and its mud season, so I wont be building for a bit. But I’m in the planning, sketching and asking questions phase so hopefully some of you will be able to help me with that if needed.

The site is pretty flat and has a decent amount of sun in the winter. The open front will face SSE. I’m going to build it on skids and I plan on using rough sawn red pine for as much of it as possible. I will probably either char the skids or coat them in some preservative poison but leave most of the rest of the wood untreated and rough most likely. Also thinking of putting the skids on some concreteblocks to keep them off the ground.

Some preliminary questions:

1. Theres quite a bit of buckthorn that’s growing in the area. Ive cut a lot of it down but that just makes it grow more. What would you all recommend, if anything, as far as keeping it at bay underneath the coop? I’m not sure if I should just set concrete blocks down, level them and build, or if I should dig little stumps up, lay gravel, compact it and then lay the blocks and start building. Also considering sheet mulching with cardboard first and then either gravel, sand or woodchips for brush suppression.

2. Would you all let your chickens underneath or not? I dont know if I should give it enough height to let them under (and provide good air flow) or keep it low enough to the ground that nothing but a weasel or rabbit could get under. I’d almost feel better with more space underneath than less.

Also, here are some other links to similar coops:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-6x10-woods-coop.1305803/

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-colony-house-portable.1104954/
 
Merry Christmas from our Woods coop! Don’t normally keep the food and water inside but with the subzero temperatures, howling winds and blizzards I do. The chickens have been keeping the coop about 7 degrees warmer than outside temperature even with the front open and no insulation in the coop. There is a little snow blowing in the front and theres a little air movement in the back by the roots but its very minimal even though its ripping outside.
 

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Would you all let your chickens underneath or not? I dont know if I should give it enough height to let them under (and provide good air flow) or keep it low enough to the ground that nothing but a weasel or rabbit could get under. I’d almost feel better with more space underneath than less.
With feet of snow you might want it higher rather than lower.
Keep in mind you need to be able to get under there if the chickens can,
to grab eggs or a broody or injured bird....not likely bit still.
You could always block it off with 1/2" HC to keep everything from getting under there.

The Woods is prefect for your climate, I look forward to watching your build.
 
With feet of snow you might want it higher rather than lower.
Keep in mind you need to be able to get under there if the chickens can,
to grab eggs or a broody or injured bird....not likely bit still.
You could always block it off with 1/2" HC to keep everything from getting under there.

The Woods is prefect for your climate, I look forward to watching your build.
With our current coop, the chickens spend a lot of time underneath it. It’s about a foot off the ground and they have nice shade underneath in the summer. In the winter I block it up to about 16” off the ground and wall off 3 sides with hay bales to make a cave for them. The love it and never lay eggs underneath. But I suppose that can change! I’d hate to have to crawl through mud and shit to get a hen or eggs out! I just figured with it low to the ground, critters could dig underneath and be hard to stop. But if its a foot or more up, not much will feel too safe under there. Id hate to invite skunks, weasels, opossums or other predators to live directly under our coop!
 
I’m happy to report that our flock took to the new coop flawlessly. They’re using the ramp, the automatic door works great, they’re laying in the nest box (although not much since they’re 3 years old and molting), and all but 1 is roosting at night. Despite having more space and a beautiful coop at that, they still cant wait to get outside in the morning!

We also had a hen go broody right after finishing the coop so we stuck her in a corner with her own nest box, fenced her off and now we have 6 new chicks!
 

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No need to worry. Correct airflow and air cushion is important in the winter. Since the side windows are closed during the winter, it will have the correct airflow and air cushion with only the front open.

In the summer, the extra ventilation is not a problem, even so far north.
Yes^^^

The Woods Coop is a very specific design that's engineered precisely to create the correct airflow and air cushion to work properly for the chickens' good health.

Messing with the window placement would mess with the airflow.
As long as the windows seal tightly when closed in winter,
except for the big open front of course,
you could put as many windows in a Woods as you wanted.
 
I have both windows on the front section per the original design.

I have found that available wall space for nests is at a premium. In the back section one side has the door so left with the opposite side ahead of the roost. If you do consider a window decide where/how your nests and ramps will be and choose a window size that fits.
 
Finally an update! Got the outside pretty much done. Still need to finish sealing the gaps around the door, put polyurethane on the floor and finish a few other things inside.

The Ladies First automatic door is working great so far, although the chickens haven’t tried it yet. Curious to see how they adapt to the new setup. Im also curious how this will do in winter. I know this design was implemented in Maine and Ontario but it sure seems counterintuitive to have an open front all winter. I sealed all the gaps around the coop though so it should be totally draft free. I suppose if there are issues in winter I can always put some cardboard, plywood or a heavy blanket over the front hardware cloth. Time will tell!
 

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I have a 10' by 16' Woods KD, fabulous coop without a doubt. The climate where I live averages -15C and -30C or lower for short periods during the winter.

I keep a thermometer on the inside wall just ahead of the roost and another outside mounted between the two front windows; both easy to read as I walk by. The coop faces south east per Woods' recommendation. I currently have 17 chickens but have had as many as 30.

While there is a noticeable difference in "feel" inside versus outside if the wind is blowing there is NO difference in absolute temperatures, ditto with humidity levels unless there something is amiss (eg water spilled). The same effect will be achieved inside ANY building.

Be very dubious of any claims to the contrary. Heat is not magically generated, any heat given off by the birds is minimal to non existent and will be dissipated by normal airflow within seconds.
 

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