Woods Open Air Coop Scaled Down (Can I do a 4 x 10?)

[saysfaa]

... sides would also be covered during the winter and that this circumstance would prevent proper circulation of air...

That makes sense.

Thanks

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

When you locate your coop and run within your yard, make sure to make room for a 3 ft apron between your coop and the 6ft fence that encloses your yard. Some folks will recommend a 2 ft or 18" apron, and that may work fine, but in my experience, I need a minimum of 3 ft to get a mower between my fence and my coops, and to trim shrubs and trees that try to come into my yard from my neighbors' yard. To me it makes sense to put an apron down over that entire area.

I have had coyotes and cats, racoons, and possums at least, and something has been digging less than 3 inches from the outer edge of my 3 ft apron. If it had been less than 3 ft, the diggers might have gotten in.

For an apron, use 1/2" hardware cloth, and secure to 2"x4" at the bottom of your run using radial washers and screws (into wood), or use staples to secure your apron to the bottom of your run 2x4, and then screw a wood trim piece over top that hides the staples (otherwise racoons can rip out the staples). You can secure the apron to the ground with landscaping stakes of any length that makes sense to you. Grass will grow through and you can mow it without running into the hardware cloth as long as the ground is pretty flat. I've used 12" stakes and 6" stakes in clay/loam soil with about 50% roots, and it works fine for me.

If you make a totally predator proof run (enclose the entire thing in 1/2" hardware cloth, and make sure there's no gaps larger than 1/2" ANYWHERE) and coop, then you can leave your pop door open all the time without worrying about predators or mice/rats getting into your food - this eases the stress of chicken chores significantly. Anything less than 1/2" in diameter (small snakes, small frogs, really small mice, insects, etc), the chickens will eat it, which IMO is a good thing. No ant mounds in my coops - those are a tasty treat.

I don't get snow load here, but lots of rain. If you extend your roof overhangs by 6" to a foot beyond the typical 1-2 inches normally expected, you may cut down the water that makes it into the windows of your coop, or under the roofed surface by a lot. A dry coop is a healthy coop. You can extend the 2x4 that support the roof also, to support the overhangs. Use hardware cloth to cover any open areas under the eves, which I think you were already planning to do.

Good luck!!!

Hey FunClucks, thanks for the comment!
I am planning to do pretty much everything you commented on, as I see raccoons every week in this suburban area. I've seen a fox too, but I know the crafty burglars are definitely my cleverest and greatest threat. I am going to cover the run entirely for sure in hardware cloth, but I am not going to leave the pop door open, I have a heavy duty all weather electronic door I am going to install, from ADOR. I just would feel better with double protection as I know that if my first defenses fail then my girls will be safe within their impenetrable fortress of a coop. Also most predators attempt their shenanigans at night. So it gives me time to identify the weakness if indeed something was able to get in somehow, but I plan to make the run super solid in terms of security. I like your apron idea, I'm not sure I will have 3 feet left, maybe a little over 2. I think the weed whacker will suffice for whatever grows there, and I plan to actually plant lavender there probably next year so it's a pretty backdrop as well as a smell buffer. Question that's unrelated to your comment, should I use a waterproof liner on the plywood or some other type of product to give a little waterproofing? So good 2x4 / 4x4 lumber for framing, plywood, and then reclaimed cedar boards is the plan. Cedar boards will be stained with a waterproof stain

 

[FunClucks]

Hey FunClucks, thanks for the comment!
I am planning to do pretty much everything you commented on, as I see raccoons every week in this suburban area. I've seen a fox too, but I know the crafty burglars are definitely my cleverest and greatest threat. I am going to cover the run entirely for sure in hardware cloth, but I am not going to leave the pop door open, I have a heavy duty all weather electronic door I am going to install, from ADOR. I just would feel better with double protection as I know that if my first defenses fail then my girls will be safe within their impenetrable fortress of a coop. Also most predators attempt their shenanigans at night. So it gives me time to identify the weakness if indeed something was able to get in somehow, but I plan to make the run super solid in terms of security. I like your apron idea, I'm not sure I will have 3 feet left, maybe a little over 2. I think the weed whacker will suffice for whatever grows there, and I plan to actually plant lavender there probably next year so it's a pretty backdrop as well as a smell buffer. Question that's unrelated to your comment, should I use a waterproof liner on the plywood or some other type of product to give a little waterproofing? So good 2x4 / 4x4 lumber for framing, plywood, and then reclaimed cedar boards is the plan. Cedar boards will be stained with a waterproof stain

If you have the time and finances, I'd recommend sealing your plywood, depending on where it's at. One thing folks can have an issue with is cleaning out the coop, and sanitizing, and fighting things like roost mites, or Lymphoid Leucosis, or Avian Influenza. If you have a non-permeable easy to clean surface anywhere the chickens are at, it saves time later on when you do annual or semi-annual coop maintenance.

Some folks use polyurethane to seal the plywood, some folk use whitewash, some use porch and patio paint or regular paint. As long as it cures well before introducing chickens, there are benefits to each option. I know a number of folks put an easy to clean surface in the floor of the coop (peel and stick linoleum tiles, sheet linoleum, ceramic tile, sheets of hard plastic, horse stall rubber mats, etc.). Many folks use unpainted plywood, and don't have an issue, but others pull their hair out trying to eradicate roost mites, so it really depends. You can do things either way.

My chickens live year round (in north Alabama) in a covered open-air run (no coop), covered completely with 1/2" hardware cloth and a 3 ft apron. I have a greenhouse frame coop, a hoop coop, and a chain link dog kennel coop. Been over a year now, and no predator losses from my greenhouse frame coop, so I'm pretty happy with it. Minimum of 15 sq ft per chicken is needed for my flock. Meant to build a coop, and I did actually build it, but then it turned into my chicken supplies shed instead. They weathered our wintertime fine, so I guess we're good.

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

Hey @Ted Brown @aart do you think these windows will work for Monitor and Side Windows? I just picked them up for free. They're storm windows but I think I could attach a lot of hinges to the monitor to make it swing out after sealing well with new silicone/caulk from the inside. I think the side windows will work if I place them on the larger side, but I am worried the potential monitor window will be too tall or even too wide. I don't mind if the side windows won't open, as there will be plenty of airflow through with the open front and monitor opening.

Monitor Window dimensions: 25" x 68.5" (H x W)

Side Window dimensions: 55" x 32" (H x W)

I am extending the pallets today and cutting my feet. I think I am doing 8 posts total at 2.5' ea underneath, so there is support all around with no sagging. It will come out to around 2' opening so they can still roam underneath, and my coop doesn't steal run space from them. Unfortunately I will need to find more pallets to complete the 2 foot extension but it's all coming along in terms of materials.

 

[Ted Brown]

You need to decide on the heights that your coop will be. That will determine if these windows will work. If you use the heights specified for the Woods 10' by 16' the monitor should work.

What is the width and material of the frame on your proposed monitor window? From the picture it seems quite slender, is it sufficient to properly attach hinges? It could be that a piano hinge would work, these have many holes along the length that allow the hinge to be screwed into the frame and window opening; conventional hinges will probably not work.

I think the side windows are too big. The back portion of the coop should be 6' by 6' leaving 4' by 6' for the front section which is where the side windows are placed.The 32" window width leaves you 18" of wall. if your front wall starts at 4' and you place the window opening right at the opposite end the roof must rise 7" over the 18" and continue that rise over the remaining 32"; if I have my math correct the height of the opposite end will be 68". Add to that the depth of the roof frame 4" if you use 2" by 4" your final wall height is 72" which is higher than the side walls of the 10' by 16' coop. AND this assumes the window is sitting on the floor, not a practical idea IMHO.

The side windows are meant to be open 24/7 during non winter months. Your location has hot humid summers, leaving the side windows closed is NOT going to work (heat and chickens do not mix well).

I assume that your 2.5' length for your "feet" reducing to the 2' opening means your support frame will use lumber with a 6" depth. If you have to get under the coop to retrieve a sick or dead bird 2' is a tight squeeze and means you will be on your belly crawling over whatever has accumulated in that space. I recommend 36" height. At that height you will be able to crouch on your feet, a much easier height to access.

I strongly urge that you stop building and focus on making dimensional drawings of your building. Having this will allow you to calculate how much lumber you will need, the size of windows/door, placement and size for nests, etc. If you do not have an accurate drawing you will end up making mistakes and having to redo work already completed. Building a coop is not a trivial job, having to deconstruct and re-build will end up taking much longer and creating frustration on your part.

 

[FunClucks]

Hey @Ted Brown @aart do you think these windows will work for Monitor and Side Windows? I just picked them up for free. They're storm windows but I think I could attach a lot of hinges to the monitor to make it swing out after sealing well with new silicone/caulk from the inside. I think the side windows will work if I place them on the larger side, but I am worried the potential monitor window will be too tall or even too wide. I don't mind if the side windows won't open, as there will be plenty of airflow through with the open front and monitor opening.

Monitor Window dimensions: 25" x 68.5" (H x W)

Side Window dimensions: 55" x 32" (H x W)

I am extending the pallets today and cutting my feet. I think I am doing 8 posts total at 2.5' ea underneath, so there is support all around with no sagging. It will come out to around 2' opening so they can still roam underneath, and my coop doesn't steal run space from them. Unfortunately I will need to find more pallets to complete the 2 foot extension but it's all coming along in terms of materials.

FYI. Chickens will eat caulk. If you use it on the inside of the coop, make sure they can't get to it. I think it passes right through them, but if the bits are big enough it could cause an obstruction and they could die. They will also eat spray foam, foam board insulation, and drywall. Not saying all chickens or even most will do this, but when it does happen, it can be quite upsetting for the chicken keeper, and can cause problems for the chickens.

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

You need to decide on the heights that your coop will be. That will determine if these windows will work. If you use the heights specified for the Woods 10' by 16' the monitor should work.

What is the width and material of the frame on your proposed monitor window? From the picture it seems quite slender, is it sufficient to properly attach hinges? It could be that a piano hinge would work, these have many holes along the length that allow the hinge to be screwed into the frame and window opening; conventional hinges will probably not work.

I think the side windows are too big. The back portion of the coop should be 6' by 6' leaving 4' by 6' for the front section which is where the side windows are placed.The 32" window width leaves you 18" of wall. if your front wall starts at 4' and you place the window opening right at the opposite end the roof must rise 7" over the 18" and continue that rise over the remaining 32"; if I have my math correct the height of the opposite end will be 68". Add to that the depth of the roof frame 4" if you use 2" by 4" your final wall height is 72" which is higher than the side walls of the 10' by 16' coop. AND this assumes the window is sitting on the floor, not a practical idea IMHO.

The side windows are meant to be open 24/7 during non winter months. Your location has hot humid summers, leaving the side windows closed is NOT going to work (heat and chickens do not mix well).

I assume that your 2.5' length for your "feet" reducing to the 2' opening means your support frame will use lumber with a 6" depth. If you have to get under the coop to retrieve a sick or dead bird 2' is a tight squeeze and means you will be on your belly crawling over whatever has accumulated in that space. I recommend 36" height. At that height you will be able to crouch on your feet, a much easier height to access.

I strongly urge that you stop building and focus on making dimensional drawings of your building. Having this will allow you to calculate how much lumber you will need, the size of windows/door, placement and size for nests, etc. If you do not have an accurate drawing you will end up making mistakes and having to redo work already completed. Building a coop is not a trivial job, having to deconstruct and re-build will end up taking much longer and creating frustration on your part.

Hey Ted,

Thank you for your comment. I am going to get more pallet wood right now as I know that I won't be able to finish the base without more. As for the legs, I will probably stick with my 2.5' and raise them on cinder blocks which are about 6 inches tall so I don't lose my .5' at all. 3 feet would be nice but I have to keep this relatively small in terms of height profile so I don't need a building permit.

I am going to come back after disassembling pallets and draw a full diagram. I realized I am rushing, and I appreciate you urging me to take the time to hash out my plan. I will. I do have more time than I think, I just have to put the power tools down and take pen to paper. I am more of an impulsive doer rather than planner, and I am working on that. I will try to incorporate the current monitor window into the design as I think it would work with the piano hinge and reinforcement. The side windows, I see your point, but I could always do the lean-out window method with a transom latch on a rope and hardware cloth behind it. Not quite sure yet, I'll hash it out. Thanks again for being my voice of reason!

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

FYI. Chickens will eat caulk. If you use it on the inside of the coop, make sure they can't get to it. I think it passes right through them, but if the bits are big enough it could cause an obstruction and they could die. They will also eat spray foam, foam board insulation, and drywall. Not saying all chickens or even most will do this, but when it does happen, it can be quite upsetting for the chicken keeper, and can cause problems for the chickens.

Thanks for the warning, good to know. Of course, they will eat whatever! Lol. This will be much too high for them to reach on the monitor window frame so it shouldn't be a problem. Still not sure if I'll need it, just an idea I floated

 

[aart]

As for the legs, I will probably stick with my 2.5' and raise them on cinder blocks which are about 6 inches tall so I don't lose my .5' at all.

Are you concerned at all with frost heave?
Might not fall down but could rack the structure enough that doors and windows might not operate as intended.

3 feet would be nice but I have to keep this relatively small in terms of height profile so I don't need a building permit.

Hopefully you can meet the theory's height requirement.

 

[Ted Brown]

@Coopin Is a Habit

We all have our own approach and in the end something gets built.

My rough calculation above re side windows did not take into account sill plates (horizontal top & bottom piece on a stud wall fame). Your side windows will cause you grief if you try to use them. Guessing you will find another if you dig. Facebook market place, kijiji, etc are good places to check. In my area Habitat Restore always has lots of windows.

I use plate glass out of old slider windows for my side windows; just set them in the openings and use 1 or 2 screws to hold them in during the winter, pop them out in the Spring.

Good luck.