Woods Open Air Coop Scaled Down (Can I do a 4 x 10?)

[jthornton]

The Wisconsin frost line is 65"

JT

 

[saysfaa]

I could dig around 4 inches down then lay gravel and sand and it would mitigate how much disturbance potential it would have on my structure, correct? ..I cannot do cement

No. And cement doesn't help that either, unless it extends below the frostline.

One way to deal with it that works is putting the foundation below the frostline. In your case, a 4x4 at each corner could be set without cement. You would use a post hole digger to get a hole barely bigger than the post. It might work to set it very lightly - fill it without tamping it - since you would have very little horizontal pressure on the posts or can brace them above the ground. Then you could pull them out more easily by digging some of the fill out then hitch a chain or tow strap to it and pull it out with a vehicle. If you put the chain over a wheel rim next to the post then the force will be nearly vertical on the post.

Another way is to build it so the frost heave doesn't matter. Things like doors closing flush against the doorframe rather than closing into the doorframe, same for windows or putting the windows in slots (chases?) like they do in log construction to allow for shrink as the logs season in place.

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

No. And cement doesn't help that either, unless it extends below the frostline.

One way to deal with it that works is putting the foundation below the frostline. In your case, a 4x4 at each corner could be set without cement. You would use a post hole digger to get a hole barely bigger than the post. It might work to set it very lightly - fill it without tamping it - since you would have very little horizontal pressure on the posts or can brace them above the ground. Then you could pull them out more easily by digging some of the fill out then hitch a chain or tow strap to it and pull it out with a vehicle. If you put the chain over a wheel rim next to the post then the force will be nearly vertical on the post.

Another way is to build it so the frost heave doesn't matter. Things like doors closing flush against the doorframe rather than closing into the doorframe, same for windows or putting the windows in slots (chases?) like they do in log construction to allow for shrink as the logs season in place.

Ok, well realistically I cannot do all of that for my foundation. I do believe my soil is mostly clay in the regular yard so it shouldn't be a huge issue for me. There are two sheds, one with a sliding door and another with a swinging door which are both located on the ground and I have not had any problems opening them in winter time.

By flush against the door frame do you mean instead of being entirely in the frame that it is right on the edge of it? Sorry, I don't have much experience with building in general so I apologize if I am asking stupid questions. I appreciate your input

 

[genxjanette]

Ok, well realistically I cannot do all of that for my foundation. I do believe my soil is mostly clay in the regular yard so it shouldn't be a huge issue for me. There are two sheds, one with a sliding door and another with a swinging door which are both located on the ground and I have not had any problems opening them in winter time.

By flush against the door frame do you mean instead of being entirely in the frame that it is right on the edge of it? Sorry, I don't have much experience with building in general so I apologize if I am asking stupid questions. I appreciate your input

You can go online and look to see where your frost line is. Ours is 3.5 feet. You'll just want to dig below that line to make sure your coop doesn't heave in the winter.

 

[saysfaa]

...By flush against the door frame do you mean instead of being entirely in the frame that it is right on the edge of it?

Like the picture of the bottom of my door. The bottom of the boards go down further than the metal strip. If the ground rises further on one side than the other then the door will not be level but it will still open and close. Actually, the narrow wood strips the cover the cracks of the big boards do not go as low as the big boards. They are above the metal piece when the door is closed. I had to sand some off to give enough clearance for the door to close all of the time.

Not like the door with the green trim. See how it is entirely within the green frame? That door could get pinched it the humidity is high enough and/or the ground heaves unevenly.

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

Base not nailed or screwed. The front scratch shed area has the one extra post and the larger roost portion has the two mid center posts. Still need to cut an exterior 2 joists for the addition side pallet extension. Will have 2X4s bracing corner posts at 45” angles as well as on the single center post. Will H brace the two others and also additional 45 degree as well most likely. Also going to do 2X4 joists on the addition pallet side in the centers just to have additonal strength there

 

[Ted Brown]

@Coopin Is a Habit Are you doing the build on your own? I am impressed with progress.

A couple of thoughts:

• Madison gets 50" of snow on average so you do have snow load to consider. The frame for the monitor carries all the weight from both roofs. You need to make certain that the frame structure is strong enough.
• Have you decided on side window placement? Wall space is at a premium in a Woods style coop; side windows in the scratch portion leaves one coop wall free as an option for mounting your nest boxes (preferable to hanging from drop boards IMHO) and minimizing floor space loss.

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

free door score this morning!! I wanted a thinner one, as this is standard 32x78 but I think the window front makes up for it

once I find perfect windows I can really get my design down pat

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

Like the picture of the bottom of my door. The bottom of the boards go down further than the metal strip. If the ground rises further on one side than the other then the door will not be level but it will still open and close. Actually, the narrow wood strips the cover the cracks of the big boards do not go as low as the big boards. They are above the metal piece when the door is closed. I had to sand some off to give enough clearance for the door to close all of the time.

Not like the door with the green trim. See how it is entirely within the green frame? That door could get pinched it the humidity is high enough and/or the ground heaves unevenly.

Thank you for elaborating with pictures, it really helps. So the door sits against the floor portion rather than tucking into it. Would I have to do anything to mitigate drafts coming from underneath if I go this route? I just feel like the recessed door has better wind blocking. Worried about winter wind. Could I utilize some type of rubber that has a smaller lip on the outside to tuck the door into?

 

[Coopin Is a Habit]

Not related but check out this bastard that was on my neck last night. He still had my skin in his mouth. Don’t know how he got that high but I bet he was in my one of my sheds while moving wood around and dropped on me.