Woods-style house in the winter

[Ted Brown]

8x14 is the minimum size for this style from both the books I have read by T. Woods on the subject.
I really want to build one for DM.
I wonder if I can get her to spring for the extra cost.

I just checked the book on this. The Woods house can be a small colony house 8x12 feet, 8x14, and 10x16 feet. He said that it should not be made smaller than 8x12 (96 sq ft)

Please see Prince Woods 1924 Edition Chapter VIII Page 115. Several topics are covered including "Small Size Woods House 6' by 10' for Small Flocks and Brooder".

If one builds the Woods KD style using the design as contained in the book (Chapter III, Page 37), specifically does NOT use modern stick framing, it is a very economical and simple construct. I built my 10' by 16' for under $1,000 3 years ago, less than a conventional coop of the same size.

 

[Coppcar]

It's good you have a pro to build the coop. He'll probably have that coop together quick. It took me (Not a pro,but I like the work) a coupla months to get mine together. I pre-built the wall sections in my garage, then dragged everything down and put it together like a 3-dimensional puzzle. I see what you are saying about space filling material, with the windows. It'll make it easier to peek in there and see what's going on.
About the 2X4s. Back in the day when they said 2X4, they meant it. The board was a full 2X4", not 1 1/2 X 3 1/2". It was a lot stronger board than what we get today. Also, that's another reason for the sharp roof pitch on the deeper part of the coop, to shed snow. They had this all figured out, as they got mass amounts of snow back then too.
Now as far as nest box placement, mine is straight across from the entrance door, inside the coop. You could, if you want, hang them off the side externally. But I've read about folks having a problem with frozen eggs with external boxes.

Please see Prince Woods 1924 Edition Chapter VIII Page 115. Several topics are covered including "Small Size Woods House 6' by 10' for Small Flocks and Brooder".

If one builds the Woods KD style using the design as contained in the book (Chapter III, Page 37), specifically does NOT use modern stick framing, it is a very economical and simple construct. I built my 10' by 16' for under $1,000 3 years ago, less than a conventional coop of the same size.

Ahhh, my source was the first edition. I need to read the second. Thank you for the correction.

 

[Coppcar]

Please see Prince Woods 1924 Edition Chapter VIII Page 115. Several topics are covered including "Small Size Woods House 6' by 10' for Small Flocks and Brooder".

If one builds the Woods KD style using the design as contained in the book (Chapter III, Page 37), specifically does NOT use modern stick framing, it is a very economical and simple construct. I built my 10' by 16' for under $1,000 3 years ago, less than a conventional coop of the same size.

Hey Ted! <removed off topic rambling>. I'm reading your Woods KD thread. Cool, but I don't have anything to lift the panels.

 

[Ted Brown]

,,, I'm reading your Woods KD thread. Cool, but I don't have anything to lift the panels.

Obviously lifting the panels is a consideration. In my case I elevated the coop 3' off the ground making the chore more difficult.

A smaller version and/or building on the ground avoids this issue for the most part. Woods says that two men can assemble his 10' by 16' version; I cannot attest to this, obviously depends on the men. Also, I have found that a bit of ingenuity can conquer most tasks like this - pulleys and stakes to hold panel bottoms in place are often useful.

 

[Ted Brown]

About the 2X4s. Back in the day when they said 2X4, they meant it. The board was a full 2X4", not 1 1/2 X 3 1/2". It was a lot stronger board than what we get today. Also, that's another reason for the sharp roof pitch on the deeper part of the coop, to shed snow. They had this all figured out, as they got mass amounts of snow back then too.

I used "rough cut" lumber for my build and (per Woods design) used 2" by 3" boards not modern 2" by 4"s; the two are essentially the same so equivalent strength.

Moreover, the original design depends on the exterior cladding boards for strength the framing boards simply hold the cladding together.

Once again, the original authentic build technique is less expensive and simpler to build; it is also, IMHO, FAR SUPERIOR.

I have 3 winters with my coop. I used metal roofing; the snow does not slide off one would need a 45 degree roof slope to have that happen. FWIW.

 

[saysfaa]

I used "rough cut" lumber for my build and (per Woods design) used 2" by 3" boards not modern 2" by 4"s; the two are essentially the same so equivalent strength.

Moreover, the original design depends on the exterior cladding boards for strength the framing boards simply hold the cladding together.

Once again, the original authentic build technique is less expensive and simpler to build; it is also, IMHO, FAR SUPERIOR.

I have 3 winters with my coop. I used metal roofing; the snow does not slide off one would need a 45 degree roof slope to have that happen. FWIW.

May I ask what makes it far superior?
I ask because my shed is rough sawn board and batten. I'm not as happy with it as I expected to be. It would be good to know if I made a mistake in the design, or if it is just that sloppy of a job of building it, or if my expectations are simply unrealistic since I expect to build another someday.

 

[Ted Brown]

My coop is also board and batten. The boards used were rough cut 1" by 6" with 1/2" by 2" battens. A modern equivalent would be 3/4" (or slightly less) by 5.5", I would have had to custom cut battens from larger stock, significant waste would result. Overall more stock would be needed.

I used white pine. At a store up here standard lumber is SPF (spruce, pine or fir), in my area usually spruce. I must take what is in the bin, often boards are warped or twisted or become so before use. The thinner boards are not as strong, likely requiring a modern stick frame.

Pine was commonly used for farm buildings back in the day and unpainted lasted 100 years or more. Spruce will not.

 

[Ted Brown]

Once again, the original authentic build technique is less expensive and simpler to build; it is also, IMHO, FAR SUPERIOR.
...

Please note that my statement about superiority was meant to refer to the original design's build technique not to the materials used. As I note above, I also believe rough cut materials FOR A COUNTRY COOP are better. I acknowledge that this is a subjective opinion based on my priorities.

 

[Sammster]

It's a beautiful coop!

 

[Folly's place]

Welcome @Coppcar !
I don't (yet!) have a Woods coop, but hope to someday, and enjoy all the information here.
Mary