➡ Quail Hatch Along🥚

[muddy75]

YESSSS ALWAYS SAVE ALL THIS INFORMATION

I need to get my butt in gear and make all those color threads while everyone's hatching them out!

zack is currently doing a video series on basic genetics on myshire you tube. “really basic”. the first one was the one I referenced on sex-link. this second one started with % true hatch of the different colors/sizes. at this time breeding for color OR weight. jumbo wilds hatch 99+% true. SSC as a “collection” only hatch about 60% true. So far, based on my pearl hatch, I’m at 69ish% true. Subsequent videos supposed to discuss each color separately. Not sure I will be much help in reality unless #1 I start getting eggs and #2 I separate breeding groups.

 

[CoturnixComplex]

zack is currently doing a video series on basic genetics on myshire you tube. “really basic”. the first one was the one I referenced on sex-link. this second one started with % true hatch of the different colors/sizes. at this time breeding for color OR weight. jumbo wilds hatch 99+% true. SSC as a “collection” only hatch about 60% true. So far, based on my pearl hatch, I’m at 69ish% true. Subsequent videos supposed to discuss each color separately. Not sure I will be much help in reality unless #1 I start getting eggs and #2 I separate breeding groups.

Yes but I want BYC information! And pictures. Mostly pictures. We should definitely link any and all available discussions/studies/info in each thread though.

 

[CoturnixComplex]

I personally hate explanation videos, I'm a visual learner and I've found more information in studies than they have in their videos so far. So we should definitely have both for everyone all in one spot!

 

[CayugaJana]

i missed that one....must’ve looked at the other little male twice.....but I agree with @CoturnixComplex theory as well as size/stature compared to known male/female in the video.

I think I have 2 males and 2 females then. And the mostly white one I will have to check it to see. I might try to video vent sexing it and post for your opinions. Will 2 females and 2 males have problems? Get rid of one of the males? The Tibetan quail the hubs put down. It was really beat up. I think it would have lived in rehab based on this threads experiences but I didn’t mention it to him because it was too late. Poor thing.

 

[muddy75]

I personally hate explanation videos, I'm a visual learner and I've found more information in studies than they have in their videos so far. So we should definitely have both for everyone all in one spot!

I definitely agree! There's just not enough information available on the genetics behind the different color variations. Having it organized in a format to accommodate the hobby breeder and different learning styles would be amaZing!

 

[CoturnixComplex]

I definitely agree! There's just not enough information available on the genetics behind the different color variations. Having it organized in a format to accommodate the hobby breeder and different learning styles would be amaZing!

And then someone needs to email everyone - JMF, Stellar, KC, Myshire, OWQ and Acadiana - begging them all to weigh in.

....Not it!

*runs away*

 

[CayugaJana]

That, and my theory is that the lighter colored silver in the clip is a male just because it fits my running theory on that color. Also, he's not missing many feathers!

I wondered if that was the case. If the more beat up ones were female. I think the Tibetan was a female too just based on how beat up it was. I have a couple weeks but I’m going to have to figure out how to keep the bobs and coturnix separate since I’m getting ready to have a lot more coturnix here soon. I might keep the bobs on the ground like they are now. Then keep the coturnix in cages off the ground in the same area. With poop guards of course so they are crapping on each other. We will see what I come up with.

 

[CoturnixComplex]

I think I have 2 males and 2 females then. And the mostly white one I will have to check it to see. I might try to video vent sexing it and post for your opinions. Will 2 females and 2 males have problems? Get rid of one of the males? The Tibetan quail the hubs put down. It was really beat up. I think it would have lived in rehab based on this threads experiences but I didn’t mention it to him because it was too late. Poor thing.

If they do both end up being male I would get rid of one, or split them into two 1:1 pairs (sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't, it totally depends on the pair and the breeding instinct level of the male. If it doesn't work at first, swap the boys, they have preferences. If it still doesn't, it won't, cull one).

 

[CayugaJana]

If they do both end up being male I would get rid of one, or split them into two 1:1 pairs (sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't, it totally depends on the pair and the breeding instinct level of the male. If it doesn't work at first, swap the boys, they have preferences. If it still doesn't, it won't, cull one).

Ok I will try making some cages for them to see. I’m betting the mostly white one is a male based on how many feathers it still has. The females I can tell are trying to hide. Has anyone tried a habitat that helps the females stay safe from the males if they want?

 

[007Sean]

I see. Any way I can make sure the temp inside stay the same in different areas? I have a circulated air incubator but it is a styrofoam one.

In general, how many days do people typically let their hatch continue before calling it a hatch?

Styrofoam bators are notorious for alot of things....among those things, having air straification, meaning there are pockets in the bator that may be warmer or cooler from where the temperature sensor is located in the bator. This is why it is recommended to use several calibrated thermometers in the bator.
As suggested, moving the eggs around to different locations in the bator, will hopefully even out the fluctuations in the egg core temperature.
When I set my foam bators up to incubate, I place 5 thermometers in the bator, 1 in each corner and 1 in the middle. That way I know where the cooler or warmer 'spots' are in the bator. The thermometers I use are the antique mercury incubator thermometers, they are highly accurate.

I usually 'cut off' the hatch 2 days past the last chick that hatches. As stated, moving the eggs around to different locations will help insure that the majority of the eggs will hatch on time, if there is stratification of the air in the bator.