Amiloo928
Songster
Thank you! We got it for free off Craig’s List and had to modify it a bit, but it works fairly well. Big enough for the chicks to hang out in there for several weeks.Nice brooder!
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Thank you! We got it for free off Craig’s List and had to modify it a bit, but it works fairly well. Big enough for the chicks to hang out in there for several weeks.Nice brooder!
ok will do some investigating then,the hens are year and a half now and the rooster is 2, they free range in the yard and are on Purina laying crumbles feed with free choice of oyster shell and cracked corn, they usually don't bother the garden but lately have been after the tomatoes, they get a couple hand fulls of meal worms for 7 hens and a rooster daily besides vegetable peels when there are some to be had and about once a week they get their favorite treat of garlic. will look into getting some viatamins for them then. Besides trying an egg turner that has the eggs laying downn. Thank you for your adviceLet me see if I can help shed some light. You've covered the possible issues of insufficient turning and small end up or down as well as egg storage time and handling.
If your temp and humidity are guaranteed to be accurate, that rules out high humidity and too high or too low temperature.
Retarded development can be a cause of malposition and likely in your case since some of yours are behind the rest.
Other possibilities are old breeders, round eggs, very large eggs and nutritional deficiencies - especially vitamins A and B 12. The latter causes a head between thighs malposition. An excess of selenium can cause malposition too.
Lineolic acid deficiency causes slow development and 75% end up with a head over right wing malposition.
That again could be a fatty acid (lineolic acid deficiency) and the retarded development contributes to malpositions.
97 will delay development by quite a bit.
They should be fine unless you only have one or two chicks.
Are these your own eggs or shipped! I might like to try turkeys next year. We need pics!Up to 5 turkeys and one more egg due Sept 1st.... 1 black and 4 bronze looking so far
A couple weeks before I am going to collect eggs for setting, I cut out all the scratch/corn. I want the bulk of the intake to be a fresh layer feed or grower/all flock if a rooster is present. Layer feed is adequate for producing eggs but may not be fortified enough to make vigorous chicks. Breeder rations are available but hard to find.ok will do some investigating then,the hens are year and a half now and the rooster is 2, they free range in the yard and are on Purina laying crumbles feed with free choice of oyster shell and cracked corn, they usually don't bother the garden but lately have been after the tomatoes, they get a couple hand fulls of meal worms for 7 hens and a rooster daily besides vegetable peels when there are some to be had and about once a week they get their favorite treat of garlic. will look into getting some viatamins for them then. Besides trying an egg turner that has the eggs laying downn. Thank you for your advice
elevation is about 4800 ft, these eggs are out of my flock no shipping and laid at same elevations, did a room check, it's about 70 and 30% humidity inside the room. Would leaving vent open the whole time help maybe?A couple weeks before I am going to collect eggs for setting, I cut out all the scratch/corn. I want the bulk of the intake to be a fresh layer feed or grower/all flock if a rooster is present. Layer feed is adequate for producing eggs but may not be fortified enough to make vigorous chicks. Breeder rations are available but hard to find.
The animal protein treats like mealworms, fish, meat are OK.
For a nutritional supplement I use Nutri-Drench and dose according to directions on the label a couple times a week.
If I treat a non animal protein, it might be a berry like black, blue, etc. for the micro-nutrients.
I thought of a couple other issues that could be causing a protracted hatch and that is the ambient air and your elevation.
I see you are in Idaho. What is your elevation?
I assume your air is fairly dry most of the time.
I also assume the incubator passively draws fresh air from the room it is in.
So the temperature and humidity of the room can have an effect. The best we can hope for is an ambient temperature between 70 and 80 and moderate humidity.
If the incoming air is too cold, it can cause poor temperature uniformity which makes protracted hatches.
If the air is too dry, the humidification to achieve a correct environment can cause localized evaporation which causes cooling in those zones.
High altitude can cause additional problems if the eggs are from breeders at a lower elevation.
High altitude air has fewer oxygen molecules so they move around faster causing more diffusion across shell membranes which can cause excessive moisture loss. The lower oxygen further complicates the issue.
I hope you get it figured out.
I get a few malpositioned embryos from time to time but I think mine are from laying the eggs flat and insufficient turning.