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I am hatching these eggs from Meyers:
Legbar
welsummer
partridge rock
LO
olive egger
BA
BO
SS

I may order these eggs from 3 good reasons farm, BCM.

I may set some of my own eggs also, but that is up to the sweet polite young RIR roosters if they are up to it in a month( RIR roosters not really my choice, but I have them and they are nice.). The chicks from this batch will be barn yard, mixed with the RIR roosters, but all my hens are currently pure. same as eggs listed, (but for the LB, PR, BO) I also have frizzle, AC, SFH, and Spitzenhauben.

Other than this hatch I don't have plans, but I may let a broody brood, during warm weather.

On my extra pure males, I may keep a nice one, but I have a breeder friend who would like the new blood in his coop, He will get my extra males in exchange for some other pure chick of my choosing.

This all starts at the end of Feb.
Sounds like you have a good plan plan going on.
I'm not a huge fan of RIRs since they do tend to be more aggressive.
 
We are going to continue breeding the Golden Comet / Well Summer hybrids. They make a beautiful rooster that seems to be doing well. His health is great and he is gentle with the ladies.
We have 25 Dorkings arriving soon. We want to see how they do as egg layers and meat birds.
We have 3 Appleyards left from an original order of 6. Unfortunately a fox got one of the Appleyard hens the other day so the drake is down to only two hens. We plan to harvest this drake and let the Khaki Campbell drake take over the two hens. If anyone has made any Khaki Yards I would love to hear their take on this combo. We got the Appleyards because they are "in danger" or just not that many flocks left. The ducks are beautiful but they run around 10 pounds. They lay an egg that is smaller than a Khaki Campbells egg and eat a lot. Also, they are aggressive. The Appleyard Drake is trying to breed with a 20 pound African Goose. Which the male goose does not take to well.
The two African Geese are breeding now. No eggs yet but they are going through the motions. We hope to hatch out a bunch of geese once she starts laying.

EDIT: Just attached a pic of the rooster. His name is Riker. His daddy was a Wellsummer and his momma was a Golden Comet. He is the secondary rooster with a total of 17 hens running around. The primary rooster is his daddy and is named Jean-Luc.
He looks pretty.
I have no knowledge on ducks, or geese.
 
I've heard of the Beilefelders.
The Crele coloring in Orpingtons is actually more complex then breeding Partride Orpington to a Barred Orpington since the first Orpingtons were Buff originally, & most Orpingtons still have wheaten hidden in their genetics.

If they were only Partridge, & Barred based, their genetics will only show this - Male: e^b/e^b, B/B
Females: e^b/e^b, B/-

Since they have hidden Wheaten genes from Buff they also have diluters. This will show as- Males: e^b/e^b, B/B, E^Wh/E^Wh, Mh/Mh, Di/Di, Co/Co, Db/Db

Females- e^b/e^b, B/-, E^Wh/E^Wh, Mh/Mh, Di/Di, Co/Co, Db/Db

Mine are only Wheaten, & Barred Based, but do show hidden partridge genes within their genetics which still make them Crele.

So there's no confusion, I'm talking about Orpingtons.
Questions, feel free to ask?
The original variety of orpingtons was black.
Regardless of that most orpingtons do not have wheaten hiding in their genetics and it doesn't work like you said.
A bird can't be e^b/e^b and E^Wh/E^Wh. There's only two slots so it can be either or or one gene of each. Most orpingtons of other varieties don't carry wheaten or they wouldn't breed true.
 
The original variety of orpingtons was black.
Regardless of that most orpingtons do not have wheaten hiding in their genetics and it doesn't work like you said.
A bird can't be e^b/e^b and E^Wh/E^Wh. There's only two slots so it can be either or or one gene of each. Most orpingtons of other varieties don't carry wheaten or they wouldn't breed true.
Please don't start this up again? I'm asking you please?

The original colors of the Orpingtons were: Black, Buff, White, Blue, & Splash. So, were both correct.

Forgot to add: E'Wh/e^b will be the correct genetics.
 
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I said RIR were not my first or second choice, but, these boys are nice, and that is what I have at the moment. They are 4-5 months old so maybe the hormones have not kicked in. They were also small for their age, which is not a good reason to breed, but since they were smaller they did not bully, and maybe it will keep them nicer.
 
I said RIR were not my first or second choice, but, these boys are nice, and that is what I have at the moment. They are 4-5 months old so maybe the hormones have not kicked in. They were also small for their age, which is not a good reason to breed, but since they were smaller they did not bully, and maybe it will keep them nicer.
You maybe right about the hormones. They will kick in soon though.
 
Heyo moonshiner! :frow Haven’t seen you around in some time. :wee
Ya, winter time is more about surviving and work and chores take more time so not as much free time to be online.

Please don't start this up again? I'm asking you please?

The original colors of the Orpingtons were: Black, Buff, White, Blue, & Splash. So, were both correct.

Forgot to add: E'Wh/e^b will be the correct genetics.
Start what?
Having an opinion or stating something correctly?

Black was the original variety in Orpingtons. The others all came later.
https://www.unitedorpingtonclub.com/orpingtonhistory.htmhttp://www.theorpingtonclub.co.uk/
And it's still not correct that other varieties carry wheaten hidden or otherwise in their genes.
Birds don't breed true unless they have two copies of the same genes on the e loci. If most were carrying wheaten we'd just have a bunch of mix patterned orpingtons.
I've raised and bred buff, blue, black, splash, chocolate and jubilee.
I do know a thing or two about them and their genetics.
 
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