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Hatch-Along - Setting eggs this weekend (Jan5/6) WHOS WITH ME!

It's day 7 for me, so I'll be candling all thirty eggs tonight. For those of you stressed about candling a large number of eggs, I like to keep the eggs in styrofoam egg cartons while they're out of the bator. This will keep them a little warmer, but really, 30 minutes out of the bator isn't a big deal at all. I think cooling is riskier for the embryos before day 7. I do keep the lid on the bator while I candle, so it stays warm.

I know we have lots of folks hatching dark eggs. I think SilkieSensation already pointed this out, but although veins might be hard to see, I usually find that around day 14 I can see some movement. It's sort of like a shifting shadow that you can see near the air cell, or at the bottom of the egg. And you can't always see it. But you will likely see the air cell get bigger, and the dark mass inside the egg get bigger. To be on the safe side, I never throw out very dark eggs unless they smell or leak.

Also, one thing that makes a world difference when your candling...darkness. The darker the room the better, so if you can find a place with zero light, not even the digits on the alarm clock, you'll see more. After you turn off the lights, give your eyes a good 2-3 minutes to adjust before you turn on your candler. It's hard to be patient, but I'm always surprised by how much more I see towards the end of my candling, then at the beginning, when I don't give my eyes time to adjust. While candling I only mark the eggs that are questionable with a pencil. I put an X on eggs that I suspect are clear, and ! on eggs I think may have died, and a ? when I have no idea...but that's just my system.
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After candling I always rearrange my eggs. It's definitely a good idea with still air, but even forced air incubators have cool and warm spots. I found a chart that indicates average hatch rates for the various areas in a Brinsea. Plus my eggs are stacked, so I know the top level is warmer. Good luck with all your candling adventures!
 
It's day 7 for me, so I'll be candling all thirty eggs tonight. For those of you stressed about candling a large number of eggs, I like to keep the eggs in styrofoam egg cartons while they're out of the bator. This will keep them a little warmer, but really, 30 minutes out of the bator isn't a big deal at all. I think cooling is riskier for the embryos before day 7. I do keep the lid on the bator while I candle, so it stays warm.

I know we have lots of folks hatching dark eggs. I think SilkieSensation already pointed this out, but although veins might be hard to see, I usually find that around day 14 I can see some movement. It's sort of like a shifting shadow that you can see near the air cell, or at the bottom of the egg. And you can't always see it. But you will likely see the air cell get bigger, and the dark mass inside the egg get bigger. To be on the safe side, I never throw out very dark eggs unless they smell or leak.

Also, one thing that makes a world difference when your candling...darkness. The darker the room the better, so if you can find a place with zero light, not even the digits on the alarm clock, you'll see more. After you turn off the lights, give your eyes a good 2-3 minutes to adjust before you turn on your candler. It's hard to be patient, but I'm always surprised by how much more I see towards the end of my candling, then at the beginning, when I don't give my eyes time to adjust. While candling I only mark the eggs that are questionable with a pencil. I put an X on eggs that I suspect are clear, and ! on eggs I think may have died, and a ? when I have no idea...but that's just my system.
smile.png


After candling I always rearrange my eggs. It's definitely a good idea with still air, but even forced air incubators have cool and warm spots. I found a chart that indicates average hatch rates for the various areas in a Brinsea. Plus my eggs are stacked, so I know the top level is warmer. Good luck with all your candling adventures!
You will want to rotate your stacked eggs down to the main level on a regular basis. This will help even out the temps for them.

Yes, that's pretty much how it goes with dark/colored eggs.

I use the following marking system when candling:
OK-good egg, good development, may or may not see movement
BR-obvious or suspected blood ring (I still don't toss until I have confirmed 3-5 days later with a 2nd candling)
C-clear, no development at all (i do not toss these until after day 10 for light colored eggs & lockdown for dark/colored eggs, the dark/colored eggs will be obvious by this point because you will be able to see light through them & developed eggs will be totally dark except for the air cell)
Any eggs I'm unsure of get a question mark & recandled in 3-5 days to be reevaluated
 
I have a question that I know some of you would have the answer. My eggs went in on the 5th, 6th, and 7th, which I knew was ok to stagger that close together since its within the 3 day lock down window. But, my question is, can you add new eggs to the same incubator 7 or 8 days apart? And, if so, how do you work out the turning on lock down days?

I'm somewhat doubtful you do that, but am not completely sure. I ask because, I found someone very close that has some Amerucana eggs and I'm REALLY want them NOW! Lol. I'm addicted and the wait is killing me...and I was not blessed w patience so it's really hard! ;-)
 
I see veins!!! I only slipped my hand in and candled a few but they are there!!
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I also caved and candled about 1/2 my eggs 2 or 3 seemed clear 2 seem to have blood rings and about 10 had veins I didnt candle the other roughly 10. I only did it real fast because well I couldnt control my urge lol.
 
I have a question that I know some of you would have the answer. My eggs went in on the 5th, 6th, and 7th, which I knew was ok to stagger that close together since its within the 3 day lock down window. But, my question is, can you add new eggs to the same incubator 7 or 8 days apart? And, if so, how do you work out the turning on lock down days?

I'm somewhat doubtful you do that, but am not completely sure. I ask because, I found someone very close that has some Amerucana eggs and I'm REALLY want them NOW! Lol. I'm addicted and the wait is killing me...and I was not blessed w patience so it's really hard! ;-)
I run staggered hatches all the time. Yes, you can set eggs at 1 week intervals or any time really. Here is how I run my staggered hatches when I'm hatching in the same bator that I'm incubating in. Keep humidity as low as possible for as long as possible (30-40% for a still air, 40-50% for a bator with a fan), keep turning any eggs not in lockdown until you see an external pip or hear peeping from an internal pip. Then raise humidity only as far as necessary for hatch (40-60% for still air, 60-70% for fan). I never add water to the wells in the bottom of a styrofoam bator because it's nearly impossible to remove without emptying the bator. I use a bowl with deep enough sides that the chicks can't hop in & put hot water in it. I sit this right on the screen with the eggs as close to the center of the bator as possible. Some people use wet sponges or even maxi pads. If humidity drops below 40% during active hatch I will mist the inside of the lid of the bator once or twice with hot water from a spray bottle. Only 1-2 sprays is usually necessary & humidity instantly rises 10-20%. As soon as hatch completes, remove all babies even if not completely dry (they can finish drying under the heat lamp as long as they are able to stand & have their feet pretty much under them). Remove water source from bator & resume turning eggs not in lockdown. Repeat for the next batch.
 
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Candling -- I'm happy for all of you how have seen some veins etc! woohoo, lookin' good :) I'm still holding out for my day 7, Sat, but waiting is not easy...

Rotating eggs in bator:
I have a homemade bator & don't think this would apply so much for a commercial bator but here is what happened to me in case it helps anyone:

For the NYDH I rotated my eggs every other day(didn't want to open lid more often) trying to move them between closer & father from light bulb positions for "even baking"
I have a PC Fan in my bator the cooler is pretty small so in theory the air should be well mixed and pretty even temps.

Well, what I found out on day 21 much to my horror, is I had at least one really TOO HOT SPOT (exterioror of egg in that spot was 103.4
so the tragic thing for me was I had systematically rotated several developing eggs which would likely have hatched into the "killer hot spot" :(

Again, this is a home made bator, it is not perfect, and I can't have a thermometer in every egg, so this hatch I am NOT rotating the eggs,
I have them lettered, and I have the photo diagram of where they are,
I'm going to track each egg spot and note how they develope, incl. order of hatch from which I hope to identify the odd hot (& cold) area of my bator, then depending on what I find I will either move the fan, or simply have a couple never-use egg spaces. Given it is all diy this was the most "scientific" way I could come up w/ to trouble shoot my hot spot problem.

I'm giving the info here in case anyone else has a new home-made bator, If I had to do my 1st hatch over again, I would have picked one side of the eggs to rotate & one side to leave in place, to see if there was an observable difference, but I didn't think of it at the time. If this info. helps anyone great, if not just ignore it and carry on!
 
I run staggered hatches all the time. Yes, you can set eggs at 1 week intervals or any time really. Here is how I run my staggered hatches when I'm hatching in the same bator that I'm incubating in. Keep humidity as low as possible for as long as possible (30-40% for a still air, 40-50% for a bator with a fan), keep turning any eggs not in lockdown until you see an external pip or hear peeping from an internal pip. Then raise humidity only as far as necessary for hatch (40-60% for still air, 60-70% for fan). I never add water to the wells in the bottom of a styrofoam bator because it's nearly impossible to remove without emptying the bator. I use a bowl with deep enough sides that the chicks can't hop in & put hot water in it. I sit this right on the screen with the eggs as close to the center of the bator as possible. Some people use wet sponges or even maxi pads. If humidity drops below 40% during active hatch I will mist the inside of the lid of the bator once or twice with hot water from a spray bottle. Only 1-2 sprays is usually necessary & humidity instantly rises 10-20%. As soon as hatch completes, remove all babies even if not completely dry (they can finish drying under the heat lamp as long as they are able to stand & have their feet pretty much under them). Remove water source from bator & resume turning eggs not in lockdown. Repeat for the next batch.


You do realize you just made my day, encouraged my growing addiction, and have me totally doing the happy dance!! Thank you for taking the time to break it down, so I will hopefully have some success in doing a second hatch at the same time. Now I'm hoping I can get the eggs tomorrow to add and get going! Fingers crossed!! :-D
 

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