Is it a Blocked Intestine or Egg Binding?

[azygous]

It's normal to feel desperate and helpless when you have a chicken with a serious ailment. It's depressing and discouraging when your loved pet doesn't respond to your attempts to help. All you can do is force yourself to keep doing what you're doing, but prepare yourself for the eventuality that the treatment may fail. You do need to be prepared to end the suffering when it's obvious that nothing's working. It's the most painful part of this whole thing.

 

[casportpony]

When mine are egg bound and still able to poop I have found that tubing 60 ml of water really helps. I tube 60 ml, wait 60-90 mintues and do it again if the crop has cleared or mostly clearded.

I also think that calcium gluconate works better than calcium carbonate. One can get the calcium gluconate at the feed store in the cattle section.

Edited to add:

Okay, so I just re-read the whole thread and I didn't read that you gave any calcium except for what you put in drinking water?

Yellow poop can be an indication of liver problems, bacterial infection, or dehydration. Can you post a picture of the yellow poop?

If you have been putting calcium in her drinking water I seriously doubt that she's getting enough calcium to do any good. Additionally, I've read that calcium carbonate is not as easily absorbed as the calcium citrate that @azygous suggested. May I suggest that you go get calcium citrate from a pharmacy or calcium gluconate from a feed store then give the pill orally, or give the injectable by injection or orally?

 

[auce99]

When mine are egg bound and still able to poop I have found that tubing 60 ml of water really helps. I tube 60 ml, wait 60-90 mintues and do it again if the crop has cleared or mostly clearded.

I also think that calcium gluconate works better than calcium carbonate. One can get the calcium gluconate at the feed store in the cattle section.

Edited to add:

Okay, so I just re-read the whole thread and I didn't read that you gave any calcium except for what you put in drinking water?

Yellow poop can be an indication of liver problems, bacterial infection, or dehydration. Can you post a picture of the yellow poop?

If you have been putting calcium in her drinking water I seriously doubt that she's getting enough calcium to do any good. Additionally, I've read that calcium carbonate is not as easily absorbed as the calcium citrate that @azygous suggested. May I suggest that you go get calcium citrate from a pharmacy or calcium gluconate from a feed store then give the pill orally, or give the injectable by injection or orally?

If I could take a picture, I would. It’s usually instantly absorbed afterward, into whatever surface/bedding she is on. Or she does it instantly when she goes into her salt bath, so it’s immediately diluted.

I’ve read a few of your posts in tube feeding - i’d love to do that, but she clamps down pretty hard when I try to get anything into her mouth. Unless she wants it in there, it doesn’t get in there - she’s always been stubborn. It doesn’t matter if she’s wrapped in a towel, eyes covered, or whatever... so if there’s a trick you’ve suggested to even get them to release the lockjaw, i’ve missed it. Quite frankly, i’d rather be getting things directly into her, rather than depend on her getting what she needs through her water or food mixtures.

 

[casportpony]

If I could take a picture, I would. It’s usually instantly absorbed afterward, into whatever surface/bedding she is on. Or she does it instantly when she goes into her salt bath, so it’s immediately diluted.

I’ve read a few of your posts in tube feeding - i’d love to do that, but she clamps down pretty hard when I try to get anything into her mouth. Unless she wants it in there, it doesn’t get in there - she’s always been stubborn. It doesn’t matter if she’s wrapped in a towel, eyes covered, or whatever... so if there’s a trick you’ve suggested to even get them to release the lockjaw, i’ve missed it. Quite frankly, i’d rather be getting things directly into her, rather than depend on her getting what she needs through her water or food mixtures.

@BantyChooks might have some good pointers on this.

 

[BantyChooks]

If I could take a picture, I would. It’s usually instantly absorbed afterward, into whatever surface/bedding she is on. Or she does it instantly when she goes into her salt bath, so it’s immediately diluted.

I’ve read a few of your posts in tube feeding - i’d love to do that, but she clamps down pretty hard when I try to get anything into her mouth. Unless she wants it in there, it doesn’t get in there - she’s always been stubborn. It doesn’t matter if she’s wrapped in a towel, eyes covered, or whatever... so if there’s a trick you’ve suggested to even get them to release the lockjaw, i’ve missed it. Quite frankly, i’d rather be getting things directly into her, rather than depend on her getting what she needs through her water or food mixtures.

Where are you starting to try and pry her bill open? The back, or the front? The back works much better, if you can use your thumbnail and fit it into the little gap that's always there even if she's got her mouth closed. Straddling the duck and kind of bending over her when you do this (you can support her chest with the other hand if you want) will let you keep her head close enough to your chest that she can't wiggle away so easily. Once it's open, keep your hand in the underhand grip and stick your index finger into the opposite side of her mouth. I suggest putting bandaids on the tip of your thumb and index before hand, because wow, can they bite!

The above is what I did when I had an extremely uncooperative duck that needed four pills per day for nearly two weeks. Oh, and I'm right handed and used my left for getting and keeping the bill open—what you're comfortable with might vary based on handedness or whatever. I can try and explain better if you're confused.

 

[azygous]

Once you get the hang of tube feeding, you'll see how handy it is for lots of things. Besides getting water and food down a very uncooperative patient, it's a handy way to give medicine without a huge fight and it going everywhere but into the patient.

I've found that once you get the tube started down the right side of the throat avoiding the middle where the airway is, that the patient will go still. Also, if you elevate the beak, elongating the neck, the tube goes down much easier.

Wrap the patient in a towel up to the neck and an ACE bandage around the towel will securely confine the wings so your patient won't escape. It really helps to have another person help. Either that, or try to grow an extra pair of hands. (If only.)

 

[auce99]

Where are you starting to try and pry her bill open? The back, or the front? The back works much better, if you can use your thumbnail and fit it into the little gap that's always there even if she's got her mouth closed. Straddling the duck and kind of bending over her when you do this (you can support her chest with the other hand if you want) will let you keep her head close enough to your chest that she can't wiggle away so easily. Once it's open, keep your hand in the underhand grip and stick your index finger into the opposite side of her mouth. I suggest putting bandaids on the tip of your thumb and index before hand, because wow, can they bite!

The above is what I did when I had an extremely uncooperative duck that needed four pills per day for nearly two weeks. Oh, and I'm right handed and used my left for getting and keeping the bill open—what you're comfortable with might vary based on handedness or whatever. I can try and explain better if you're confused.

I’ve tried both ways, and the closest i’ve come is from the base, like you suggest. But then she often starts whipping her head around, and I panic and let go. I’m just so scared i’m going to hurt her!

I do like your idea of straddling her, and holding her close. That might comfort her a bit. Or scare the crap it of her so much that she hates me.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[auce99]

Once you get the hang of tube feeding, you'll see how handy it is for lots of things. Besides getting water and food down a very uncooperative patient, it's a handy way to give medicine without a huge fight and it going everywhere but into the patient.

I've found that once you get the tube started down the right side of the throat avoiding the middle where the airway is, that the patient will go still. Also, if you elevate the beak, elongating the neck, the tube goes down much easier.

Wrap the patient in a towel up to the neck and an ACE bandage around the towel will securely confine the wings so your patient won't escape. It really helps to have another person help. Either that, or try to grow an extra pair of hands. (If only.)

I’m sure if I can get it done once, they’ll be no turning back. I fed/raised baby cockatiels when I was a teenager, and had no issue shoving a syringe down their throat. But they also didn’t fight me.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[casportpony]

You might find this post helpful:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...be-feeding-ducks.1246037/page-4#post-19993979

I think the hardest part is figuring out how to restrain them and realizing that you aren't going to hurt them.

 

[BantyChooks]

You might find this post helpful:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...be-feeding-ducks.1246037/page-4#post-19993979

I think the hardest part is figuring out how to restrain them and realizing that you aren't going to hurt them.

Definitely. It feels like you're going to break their bill off.

I do like your idea of straddling her, and holding her close. That might comfort her a bit. Or scare the crap it of her so much that she hates me.

Both are possibilities. I find with the straddle that it helps keep her head secure without holding on so much.