Quote:
Hey! I resemble that remark! No, wait, I am that...
Hey! I resemble that remark! No, wait, I am that...
Mahonri's 2nd Annual NYDHatch, watching them grow...
- Thread starter Mahonri
- Start date
Quote:
Imagine that...you awakened...2 weeks on 5-htp and you'll be cured!
If my aircells are normal and fairly large, I'll let my FBCMs go at normal 'confinement' humidity (50-80%). If the cells are small, I let them go without any augmentation at all- as low it can go. It's humid here most of the year (70+%) so I sand FBCM shells to promote evaporation if they are particularly dark or if they are shipped. I know there's an equally fervent camp that insists extra humidity is best for dark eggs, but my experience has convinced me that they evaporate poorly due to the dark coating on the eggs.
If you have the ability to hatch separately, go for it, if not, I'm usually happy hatching somewhere between 50&80% and it seems to work out. If the air cells are extremely small, you need to go dry, though, for good results.
Am I the only one that thinks this is clear as mud?
Note to self: Let a broody hatch Marans eggs.
Imagine that...you awakened...2 weeks on 5-htp and you'll be cured!
If my aircells are normal and fairly large, I'll let my FBCMs go at normal 'confinement' humidity (50-80%). If the cells are small, I let them go without any augmentation at all- as low it can go. It's humid here most of the year (70+%) so I sand FBCM shells to promote evaporation if they are particularly dark or if they are shipped. I know there's an equally fervent camp that insists extra humidity is best for dark eggs, but my experience has convinced me that they evaporate poorly due to the dark coating on the eggs.
If you have the ability to hatch separately, go for it, if not, I'm usually happy hatching somewhere between 50&80% and it seems to work out. If the air cells are extremely small, you need to go dry, though, for good results.
Am I the only one that thinks this is clear as mud?
Note to self: Let a broody hatch Marans eggs.
Yes, that's a fairly outdated warning. In the late 80's there were issues associated with a single Japanese producer who was brewing it using an unsafe method in an open fertilizer vat! It was a big deal- the FDA banned it from the market in 1991 (20 years ago.) It was re-evaluated and has been legal since 2001 when the FDA deemed it safe. WebMD is probably playing it safe- other sources will bear it out (I'm like you- all about research!!).
Quote:
Imagine that...you awakened...2 weeks on 5-htp and you'll be cured!
If my aircells are normal and fairly large, I'll let my FBCMs go at normal 'confinement' humidity (50-80%). If the cells are small, I let them go without any augmentation at all- as low it can go. It's humid here most of the year (70+%) so I sand FBCM shells to promote evaporation if they are particularly dark or if they are shipped. I know there's an equally fervent camp that insists extra humidity is best for dark eggs, but my experience has convinced me that they evaporate poorly due to the dark coating on the eggs.
If you have the ability to hatch separately, go for it, if not, I'm usually happy hatching somewhere between 50&80% and it seems to work out. If the air cells are extremely small, you need to go dry, though, for good results.
Being tempted to try this stuff because I can't sleep for poop, and I am a research kind of a gal - I found this information:
http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-suppl...veIngredientId=794&activeIngredientName=5-HTP
Reliable source, and boy am I glad I DID find it!!!
Quote:
Imagine that...you awakened...2 weeks on 5-htp and you'll be cured!
If my aircells are normal and fairly large, I'll let my FBCMs go at normal 'confinement' humidity (50-80%). If the cells are small, I let them go without any augmentation at all- as low it can go. It's humid here most of the year (70+%) so I sand FBCM shells to promote evaporation if they are particularly dark or if they are shipped. I know there's an equally fervent camp that insists extra humidity is best for dark eggs, but my experience has convinced me that they evaporate poorly due to the dark coating on the eggs.
If you have the ability to hatch separately, go for it, if not, I'm usually happy hatching somewhere between 50&80% and it seems to work out. If the air cells are extremely small, you need to go dry, though, for good results.
Being tempted to try this stuff because I can't sleep for poop, and I am a research kind of a gal - I found this information:
http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-suppl...veIngredientId=794&activeIngredientName=5-HTP
Reliable source, and boy am I glad I DID find it!!!
I had trouble getting into my run. The latch worked fine, but the gate wouldn't budge. All the rain we had caused the mud to collect at the bottom of the gate. The 27 degree weather cemented the mud to the gate. I finally got in after pouring some of my hot water around the bottom of the gate.
Sorry- I'm a bit pedantic sometimes...
If the eggs are shipped ore very dark, I sand stripes.
If the eggs are medium dark, I incubate normally until confinement.
I candle both normal and sanded eggs at confinement and evaluate to determine whether they have evaporated enough mass to have a normal aircell.
If the aircell is small, I use no water during confinement.
If the aircell is normal, I use normal humidity.
If the aircell is large, I use higher humidity.
It's about not having too much moisture and potential drowning because the pigment seals the egg more than lighter eggs. You should see Penedescenca eggs try to cook- sometimes you barely get an air cell!!
Quote:
Imagine that...you awakened...2 weeks on 5-htp and you'll be cured!
If my aircells are normal and fairly large, I'll let my FBCMs go at normal 'confinement' humidity (50-80%). If the cells are small, I let them go without any augmentation at all- as low it can go. It's humid here most of the year (70+%) so I sand FBCM shells to promote evaporation if they are particularly dark or if they are shipped. I know there's an equally fervent camp that insists extra humidity is best for dark eggs, but my experience has convinced me that they evaporate poorly due to the dark coating on the eggs.
If you have the ability to hatch separately, go for it, if not, I'm usually happy hatching somewhere between 50&80% and it seems to work out. If the air cells are extremely small, you need to go dry, though, for good results.
Am I the only one that thinks this is clear as mud?
Note to self: Let a broody hatch Marans eggs.
If the eggs are shipped ore very dark, I sand stripes.
If the eggs are medium dark, I incubate normally until confinement.
I candle both normal and sanded eggs at confinement and evaluate to determine whether they have evaporated enough mass to have a normal aircell.
If the aircell is small, I use no water during confinement.
If the aircell is normal, I use normal humidity.
If the aircell is large, I use higher humidity.
It's about not having too much moisture and potential drowning because the pigment seals the egg more than lighter eggs. You should see Penedescenca eggs try to cook- sometimes you barely get an air cell!!
Quote:
Imagine that...you awakened...2 weeks on 5-htp and you'll be cured!
If my aircells are normal and fairly large, I'll let my FBCMs go at normal 'confinement' humidity (50-80%). If the cells are small, I let them go without any augmentation at all- as low it can go. It's humid here most of the year (70+%) so I sand FBCM shells to promote evaporation if they are particularly dark or if they are shipped. I know there's an equally fervent camp that insists extra humidity is best for dark eggs, but my experience has convinced me that they evaporate poorly due to the dark coating on the eggs.
If you have the ability to hatch separately, go for it, if not, I'm usually happy hatching somewhere between 50&80% and it seems to work out. If the air cells are extremely small, you need to go dry, though, for good results.
Am I the only one that thinks this is clear as mud?
Note to self: Let a broody hatch Marans eggs.
I've never sanded mine but I incubate @ 35% hatch @ 60 to 65% any higher and they get sticky..when I locked down yesterday the humidity in the incubator was 37% and no water in the bottom we've had lots and lots of rain and my humidity in the room is close to 60% my air cells looked good and they do always seem smaller on the dark eggs and I just hatched out some and never upped the humidity they hatched out fine right at 35% because as they hatch they added humidity....any time I run my humidity higher I have problems with sticky chicks and hatching this time of the year is nice I do not need to add much water the eggs only seem to want moisture early in the incubating.
Holy crap!!! I have a pip!
My eggs were set exactly at noon, like we all did.
Is it an Icelandic? NOPE, it's a bantam cochin. Black barred split to buff barred.
Is it an Icelandic? NOPE, it's a bantam cochin. Black barred split to buff barred.
Quote:
I just love bantam Cochins!
I just love bantam Cochins!
Similar threads
New posts New threads Active threads
-
Latest threads
-
-
Rooster won't keep bandage on/bumblefoot- Started by alpacasandchicks78
- Replies: 2
-
-
-
-
-
Threads with more replies in the last 15 days
-
-
-
Two dead chicks in brooder pen
- Started by redinator
- Replies: 69
-
-
-
