Multipe hens, multiple problems.

Pastel the Rooster

Free Ranging
Apr 22, 2022
2,431
19,107
716
Southern Georgia
Oh gosh. This might be long. Please bare with me.
I have five chickens. One rooster, and four hens. I also have ten guinea fowls, but they aren't important right now.

My RIR hen- maybe a mix- has had Bumblefoot multiple times. I finally got rid of it. Her foot looks good. I'm going to be watching to make sure it stays that way.
That's not the problem though. She is very skinny, and never grew her feathers back from her molt. *pictures to come*
Her stomach has no feathers, her back has no feathers, and her wing/shoulders are completely bare.
She has lice, but I've been treating her. Going to do another treatment soon. Could it be because of the lice? Or maybe internal parasites? I've never seen anything in her feces though.
I know that BY Bob had a hen who never grew feathers back from a molt and started losing weight and died.

I also recently had a hen go broody, none of the eggs made it. One hatched but died soon after. She is growing back her feathers and is gaining weight. No worries about her.

My next problem is my Alpha hen. She has slight feather loss, and is not exactly the thickest bird. She has few feathers on her stomach and wing/shoulders.

My next is my EE mix hen. She has not been laying for over a month. She has a crossed beak due to her doing something stupid when she started laying. I maintain her beak regularly by trimming it back so she can get food.
She went through a molt a few months ago and grew most if her feathers back nicely.
Should I get a dremel and try to file her beak straight?

Next up I have my jerk of a rooster. He has really bad scaley mites. I put vaseline on it once, but I've "neglected " it since. How do I get rid of his scaley mite problem? It looks super uncomfortable.

All of my chickens have lice, but I have been treating them all with Permethrin and I have seen fewer lice on them.

Pictures will come soon. I just need to go get some good pictures.
 
No, don't try to file the sides of the beak down to try to get the top and bottom to align. The beak is the most sensitive feature on a chicken, lots of nerve endings like our finger tips. The beak explores things just as our finger tips do, so that should tell you how much any injury to the beak hurts. You can file down the tip if need be, but observe where the quick is and don't cut into it. You will have such a bleeding gusher and a hen in so much pain, you would feel like shooting yourself for doing it.

For a flock with numerous external parasites, the most convenient way to treat them all with the same insecticide is to use Elector PSP (spinosad) a non-toxic but very effective insecticide. You will soak the legs for ten minutes and spray the rest of the body where the mites and lice are. You can also use it to treat a coop for mites. https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=AC577859-6E1D-4028-B018-888E771B573F Don't be shocked by the price. It's highly concentrated and a tiny amount goes a long way and the eight ounce bottle will last you a decade.

As for not growing feathers back after molt, often a chronic avian virus will compromise the immune system and other functions resulting in deformed feathers or no regrowth. It's a symptom not a disease in itself, therefore often not treatable. You can feed extra animal protein, tuna, mackerel, twice a week to boost protein levels, and that sometimes can force feathers to re-grow if there is no pathological cause. Do not feed high amounts of protein for more than four weeks as it can harm the kidneys.
 
No, don't try to file the sides of the beak down to try to get the top and bottom to align. The beak is the most sensitive feature on a chicken, lots of nerve endings like our finger tips. The beak explores things just as our finger tips do, so that should tell you how much any injury to the beak hurts. You can file down the tip if need be, but observe where the quick is and don't cut into it. You will have such a bleeding gusher and a hen in so much pain, you would feel like shooting yourself for doing it.

For a flock with numerous external parasites, the most convenient way to treat them all with the same insecticide is to use Elector PSP (spinosad) a non-toxic but very effective insecticide. You will soak the legs for ten minutes and spray the rest of the body where the mites and lice are. You can also use it to treat a coop for mites. https://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=AC577859-6E1D-4028-B018-888E771B573F Don't be shocked by the price. It's highly concentrated and a tiny amount goes a long way and the eight ounce bottle will last you a decade.

As for not growing feathers back after molt, often a chronic avian virus will compromise the immune system and other functions resulting in deformed feathers or no regrowth. It's a symptom not a disease in itself, therefore often not treatable. You can feed extra animal protein, tuna, mackerel, twice a week to boost protein levels, and that sometimes can force feathers to re-grow if there is no pathological cause. Do not feed high amounts of protein for more than four weeks as it can harm the kidneys.
Thank you!
I'm out of town right now, but when I get back I will order the Elector PSP.
 
I’ve heard that ivermectin can treat scaly leg mites more quickly, but I haven’t tried it myself. It can also kill blood-sucking mites if your chicskens have those (it can’t kill feather lice).
Ivermectin is the recommended treatment for scaly mites(and red mites) according to the Merk Veterinary manual. Scaly Mites causes severe stress, loss of weight,feather loss, lower egg production and can cause death.Chickens with a compromised immunity will get scaly mites quicker than the healthier chickens.I lost 2 to scaly mites while treating them.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom