Our "Oak Abode" chicken coop

I should have started this thread with the title "How a Couple of Carpentry Dummies Built a Coop" I think most people acquire building skills during their lives or they have friends or relatives who help them when they have projects requiring assistance. My wife and I are not among those people.

Step One
So we clueless people began by buying some plans for our coop. My wife has been watching YouTube videos about chickens for some time and one channel she really likes is the Oak Abode channel. If you search YouTube for Oak Abode Coop you will quickly find the video about their coop and why they built it the way that they did. We found that they had plans for sale at their ETSY shop for about $16. There must be places where you can get plans for free and many designs that might work better for you. That said, the first part of the plans was a list of the materials and quantity needed to build this coop.

Step Two
With a list of materials we needed, we had to figure out a way to get these materials from the store to our home. We reserved a pickup truck from Uhaul but when we arrived they did not have one. They did have a large cargo van which we rented for the same price and to be honest I think it worked out better than a pickup. So we headed to the hardware store and bought what we needed.

Step Three
With all of the materials at our home it was time to build the coop. Fortunately the plans started with building the base. Once we had the base of the coop built, we had a large worktable to use for cutting and assembling the pieces.
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I would like to add that we purchased a small lightweight 10 inch miter saw. My wife loves that saw. It was light enough for her to set up anywhere she wanted and it made very precise cuts. It was able to cut through the 4x4 ground rated posts in one clean cut with no problems. We could have cut the 4x4 with a 7" circular saw but we would have had to rotate the 4x4 to cut all of the way through it. After the coop base was built, it was time to build the frames. We could have used a circular saw for those cuts but once again the miter saw made quick work of the frames and the precise cuts helped to keep everything sized correctly. With the exception of the base, we used 2x3s for the framing as that saved us a lot in cost (and was recommended in the plans). So we built all of the frames including the roof frame.

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After we built the frames, we cut everything that we could think of and assembled as much as we could before we attached anything to the base. That included cutting the corrugated metal roof panels. One tool purchase that I made thinking it might be useful was a 4 pack of DeWalt trigger clamps.

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During the construction my wife and I frequently observed how difficult different tasks would have been without them. That was $37 well spent (at Home Depot). I also would like to point out that the plans called for using decking screws for most everything. If I had an air compressor and a nail gun, I wouldn't have hesitated to use that. It certainly would have been much faster. However,since we did use screws, if we should move, we can easily disassemble the coop and move it with us. But we went with the screws and quickly found that the 2x3 studs tended to split. Luckily we have two Ryobi cordless drills so we put an 1/8" drill bit in one for drilling pilot holes and used the other with the Torx bit to screw in the screws. No more split studs.

Step Four
So up to this point, all of the pieces are assembled and it feels like the coop will never be built. Here is where things really sped up. Once we started attaching the pieces we went from just a coop base to a fully built coop very quickly.
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We decided to attach the 1/2" plywood sheeting to the frame then cut out the openings. We did that by making a hole with a hole saw.

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Then we used a jig saw to cut out the area that we needed. We tried to use a reciprocating saw but I didn't like the cuts it made. After that we attached the roof frame, the 1/2 inch plywood roof, the roofing paper then the metal panels to the roof. We made some mistakes along the way. Some we corrected and some we decided to just live with. We learned a lot during this process. My wife really enjoyed this project and she now has a scheme to build a playhouse in the backyard for our grandchildren. I just want to wrap by saying, if a couple of carpentry dummies like us can build a coop, then you can too. Don't waste your money on an expensive prefab coop that is inadequate for your flock. This final photo shows our prefab (we just sold it) that was advertised as good for 8 to 10 chickens compared to our homemade coop that is sized for 8 chickens.

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2x4 For Roost The opinions seem to vary widely on this topic.
Right, opinions do vary. But reality, not so much. Have you ever seen a 2 x 4 going in nature? I have seen chickens in the wild, and turkeys, and ducks and geese and on an on. The point was not that "my hens like branches" or that they do not "like two by fours." Rather, that branches (like the ones in the peach tree my hens roost on every night in the Summer months (and the guinea all year 'round) are a suitable, natural and cheaper alternative to the two by fours seen in the coop pictured.

My location: Wester NC Foothills Definitely more temperate than Maine or Vermont - but nature makes chickens designed for cold weather:

11 Cold Hardy Chickens That Lay Eggs During Winter

https://www.chickensandmore.com/cold-hardy-chickens/
https://www.chickensandmore.com/cold-hardy-chickens/
I'd really advise against that. Round roosts are fine as long as they're wide enough, but turning any squared off board on edge just forces the birds to rest the majority of their weight on the corner which can lead to foot problems.
I said "find yourself a limb and put it to use."
In my experience, over 12 years or more keeping birds for egg production in Western NC, chickens are happy with whatever branches I find and install in their coops as well as those they choose on my pear tree or peach tree where as many as nine of them spend their nights. To be fair, there is no coop with two by fours set up to compete with my ad hoc natural roosts.
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Oak Abode Coop
My wife and I just finished building our chicken coop and we are rather proud of ourselves. We have almost no carpentry experience, so it was quite the challenge for us. We saw this coop on YouTube and I have posted the link above. We live in South Dakota in a city. so we are operating under some restrictions. We are allowed to have no more than 6 hens and no roosters. The coop should be no larger than 30 sq ft and the run should be no larger than 60 sq ft. We purchased the plans for the coop from Oak Abode's ETSY shop. This coop is slightly larger than the allowed size at 32 sq ft. This is because plywood and studs come in 8 ft sections. I could have modified it to 30 sq ft but I am hoping no one from the city shows up with a tape measure. We liked the raised design because it allows the chickens to have a shaded and protected area and it adds a stealthy extra 32 sq ft to the size of our run (which is already accounted for by the coop). We purchased a cheap metal run on Amazon that is 6.6 ft by 10 ft. This gives our chickens 66 sq ft + 32 sq ft =96 sq ft of run space for 16 sq ft per bird. The coop provides 5+ sq ft per bird. We enclosed the underneath of the coop with hardware cloth. Unfortunately, our bargain run is only enclosed in chicken wire but we know the risks. We live in the city and have a 6ft privacy fence for our backyard. The only predators I have seen are a neighbors cat, hawks and the occasional bald eagle which shouldn't penetrate the chicken wire. The designers of the coop live in Wisconsin which has similar weather to us. Summers are short and mild and winter is long and brutal. In winter we will most likely wrap the run in a tarp or some kind of plastic sheeting to minimize wind and snow exposure to our flock. We have 3 silver laced Wyandot hens aged 9 weeks and 3 gold laced Wyandotte chickens aged 15 and 10 weeks. We chose them because they are known to be cold hardy. Here are photos of the finished coop. If there is an interest, I will post photos we took during various stages of construction.

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We were thinking about doing this coop. Did you also modify the floor for a tray clean out method? The reason I ask is it looks like under your main access door, there's a board/tray that might slide. If so, could you tell us more about that please?
 
Well done!

I have runs just like that.

The zip ties will break really fast in the weather. Replace them with wire to hold the mesh to the frame.

I put cage-mesh/hardware cloth around the bottom of my run so the bottom two feet are stiff close mesh. Partly this was because a young pullet stuck her head through the chicken-wire and got hung up and died so I wanted finer mesh down where small chickens might be. I think it probably improves predator resistance a good deal as well -- you can't pull on the hardware cloth and bend it upward to crawl under, it's too rigid, and if you're the size of a racoon you're not tall enough to grip the chicken-wire part and put your back into it while pulling.

I used J-clip type cage-clips, and lots of them, to attach the chicken-wire to the hardware cloth and to attach the chicken-wire sheets to each other so the join is close and strong.
Could you show me a picture of a J clip? I have never heard of them.
 
I forgot to include the interior photo. Our nesting box is split into two nesting areas. The small protrusion on the end of the coop holds our heated water container. I will need to add a hole for an extension cord before winter sets in. We wanted to put the water above the bedding to keep it clean. The roosting bar is set to 24 inches below the ventilation openings to keep the flock out the wind during the winter. I am considering putting a higher summer roost in where the flock can get some direct breeze and also look outside. The low slope of the roof in on the north side of the coop. Right now the space between the rafters is open. I will add hardware cloth soon but I am toying with the idea of closing that area and the west side vent during the winter. Our prevailing winter winds are from the west, northwest and north.

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an outdoor roost that I threw together yesterday from scrap wood that I had lying around.
Please note that chickens do not have flat feet. Look to nature to see what birds roost upon. Did you say tree branches? So, turn that 2 x 4 ninety degrees - or, better yet, find yourself a limb and put it to use.
 

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