Oxibendazole (Anthelcide EQ wormer)

[pibb]

Anyone have any dosing info for poulty with Anthelcide EQ wormer or any experience with it?
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/pfizer-anthelcide-eq-oxibendazole-paste-85-oz-tube
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/pfizer-anthelcide-eq-oxibendazole-paste-85-oz-tube
I can't find much on it for poultry. Only for horses, cows and dogs. I'm looking around at different things to rotate wormers with.

Since Oxibendazole is a Benzimidazole type wormer, would it even be wise to rotate with Fenbendazole (Safeguard) since they are both in the same class of wormers or should you just use one wormer (just pick one) from the Benzimidazole types and rotate with something like Pyrantel?

What I was thinking about doing is using Fenbendazole, then Pyrantel, then Oxibendazole, then Pryantel, then Albendazole, etc..... Something along those lines.

 

[dawg53]

You dont have to rotate wormers every time you use one. I worm my birds monthly. I rotate wormers every 6 months. You have to keep an eye on expiration dates as well.
I currently use Albendazole, Fenbendazole and Pyrantel Pamoate. It's true Albendazole and Fenbendazole are benzimidazoles. Keep in mind their chemical structure is different.
If resistance is a problem, simply increase dosage and do what I do, withhold feed for 24 hours, especially for tapeworms.
I dont recommend the Macrocyclic lactones unless tapeworms are present (praziquantel.)
Keep it simple.

 

[pibb]

Thanks.

Resistance isnt a problem here yet that Im aware of. I want to prevent that if I can.

 

[CatWhisperer]

Are you experiencing recurrent parasite problems? Maybe you should try changing the environment rather than deworming all the time. Rotational grazing, drying out the free range area etc. Better to run fecals than preventative deworming. Dewormers are toxic to an extent (not so much pyrantel).

 

[casportpony]

Since Oxibendazole is a Benzimidazole type wormer, would it even be wise to rotate with Fenbendazole (Safeguard) since they are both in the same class of wormers or should you just use one wormer (just pick one) from the Benzimidazole types and rotate with something like Pyrantel?

Not positive, but in horses, rotating de-wormers means rotating class of wormers. My suggestion to you would be to have routine fecals done so you know what types of worms you have. Then you can pick the product best suited to treat that worm.

As for the oxibendazole, none of my books list it for use in birds. I'm sure it can be used, but I have no idea what the dose would be. FWIW, in most cases, using equine paste is not a cost-effective way to treat parasites, so I think you're probably better off investing in a bottle of Valbazen.

 

[dawg53]

It really doesnt matter knowing what type of worms birds have since all the wormers we use treat most types of worms.
Wormers mostly paralyze worms. Alot of the wormers we use in birds are used in humans. If you know your soil conditions, you'll know how often to worm your birds. Nematode eggs can survive in all types of soil for years no matter the environment.

 

[casportpony]

If just large roundworms or cecal worms are found, one could use Safeguard at 1 mg/kg for 5 consecutive days and still eat the eggs, but if capillary worms are found, one would need to use a larger dose of Safeguard, or a different de-wormer, and that would require a withdrawal.

 

[pibb]

Thanks all. I can't say that I'm having a reoccuring problem with worms. I'm just thinking ahead.

I'm not really a run to the vet type of person if that says anything. I'm not planning on worming on an exact schedule per say such as every 6 months or every month but over time as Dawg53 points out, you will get a good understanding of when you will have to worm next. At this point I don't have that figured out.

To explain, I do know I have ascarids here. Ascarids are easy to see in the poo and are the most common worm from my understanding. You may only see them when an overload happens but I feel like they can have a reasonable load. When found, this is when I plan to deworm, not beforehand or on a schedule. I know you can't see the worm eggs.

Most of the wormers will work on ascarids and if I were to rotate with the benzimidazoles then those should work on the other worms. The exception being tapeworms, but you can see those in the poo also and treat with Praziquantel.

Unless I'm missing something, why should I have a fecal run? If a fecal test comes back positive for tapeworms, ascarids, or cecal worms, then I'm probably going to see them in the poo and have to deworm anyways and the fecal doesn't change the fact that they have already have worms. I can see a fecal test in the case of having a sick bird and needing to rule out worms, coccidiosis or something else.

 

[dawg53]

There are only two reasons why you'd see worms in feces; they are dying or going to die of old age, or there's no more room in the digestive tract and they are excreted. By the time you see worms in feces, damage has already occured internally, specifically scarring intestinal lining which impacts proper nutrient absorption. What do you think a reasonable load is 5, 50, 100, or 1,000 worms? Do you know that one female large roundworm lays about 10,000 eggs in a 24 hour period? Those eggs will eventually infect other birds. One worm is too many.
You must be proactive and not reactive when treating worms and it starts with your environment and soil conditions. Birds kept on the same soil will require frequent wormings.

 

[pibb]

I see. It seems likely there is a ~100% chance a chicken is going to have or get worms. Even if the chickens are on concrete in an enclosed building they can still eat a passing insect and possibly get worms so I think most people could safely say their chickens have worms without getting a fecal test done. That is what I was getting at. The variable is how long and which type of worm. This where a fecal test could come into play but even those can come back negative when positive from what I've read.

I don't know what I would call a reasonable worm load. I agree one is too many but there is always going to be "one worm" and there is nothing one can do about it. You can move your chickens to a different location or lay napalm on the ground and there will still be worms. I'll agree being proactive is best but how far am I willing to go. Worming on a routine schedule (once figured out) would give the lowest numbers of worms a bird will have but they will still get worms and consequently suffer some internal damage all be it isn't as bad. As I understand the anthemintics only work on the worms and not the eggs so they have to be worms first before being killed off.

I don't want anybody to look at this and take this as saying somebody elses method or mindset is wrong because I'm not. This is just how I'm seeing things at this point in time and I don't want anybody to be scared to tell me what they think or know because I don't discredit anyone. Two heads are better than one is what I grew up hearing.