Raising and Growing Our Organic and Not- So-Organic Foods

[Arielle2]

While working in the garden the other nite with my son I felt like hanging up my hat. Far easier and cheaper to live in a small condo, have a crappy job, and buy organic foods. No mosquitos, no ground hog, no rabbits, no aching back....... then I think of:

the thrill of the first cherry tomato growing in a south facing window
pulling long china rose radishes
eating a fresh lettuce salad topped with scallions
the joy of pots overflowing with potato leaves
crunching on a sprig of parsley

THEN all the work and hiccups was worth it!

 

[Molpet]

While working in the garden the other nite with my son I felt like hanging up my hat. Far easier and cheaper to live in a small condo, have a crappy job, and buy organic foods. No mosquitos, no ground hog, no rabbits, no aching back....... then I think of:

the thrill of the first cherry tomato growing in a south facing window
pulling long china rose radishes
eating a fresh lettuce salad topped with scallions
the joy of pots overflowing with potato leaves
crunching on a sprig of parsley

THEN all the work and hiccups was worth it!

then you would need to belong to a gym to get your workouts

actually i do belong through the park district and we use the local high school fitness center.. doesn't have very many hours that we can use it, lots of skip days for events Holidays and since it is after school hours the air is off. But it helps especially in the winter

 

[Arielle2]

Yes, you are right!! A membership to a gym would be a must!!

Totally understand that school gym funk--- ventilation somehow is never part of the engineering.

 

[Arielle2]

Trying to self talk a lot-- that it is OK to NOT plant out every tomato plant I have. A difficult task, as I see potential in every volunteer I discover while weeding!!! lol

Planted out climbing beans but concerned as nothing has popped up.Bought more seeds yesterday-- everything but more climbing beans. Did find Italian flat beans-- my favorite.

The old compost used as the pile to start the beans doesnt hold a lot of water-- been watering on days rain did not visit.

The huge compost bins ( top planted with squash) are looking good. Square boxes have a neat look, so scouting for more pallets. Several of the piles are really warm, actually "hot" better describes one. The first one, an end, is cold. Perplexing.

Three lined Potato Bug-- continues to visit. TO be expected. I continue to check over the golden berries ( I called them tomatillos earlier, which is confusing as 8+ tomatillos are in the GH. ) Golden Berries are a strong attractant, but bugs are EASY to see given their coloring. Picking those off twice a day seems to be necessary. They do fly off sometimes, so trying to get the buggers is tricky. Moving slowly, and keeping hand UNDER is definitely helpful and super successful. ODDLY, onely a few piles of orangy-yellow eggs masses are found on the golden berry leaves while I find LOTS of orangy egg masses on the POTATOES and didn't have more than 2-3 bugs. I look for bugs on the golden berry, and egg masses on the potatoes.

Will continue to manage them this way, with the goal of limiting the next generation of the buggers-- from what I have read this pest has two cycles, maybe three in a growing season.

Tried rotten egg to keep out the bigger bugger. I suspect a rabbit. A number of 4 inch beans were reduced to stems. Is that a rabbit thing?? Closed up holes again---both reopened. Fixed the holes and added boards to block digging. Can only wait and see!! Expecting they are smart enough to try a new spot to dig under the fence. Have thought about letting my own bunnies out if rabbits are territorial and would keep out the wild bunnies. Hmmmm.... maybe sprinkle droppings along the fenceline, and hope enough urine is included.

Fixing fencing in a number of areas. Keeping some animals IN and others OUT. And no one fence works perfectly. Im putting up 3 foot fencing because I have it, yet a couple of my sheep will try to jump a 5 foot fence. Im realizing "hope" is not always useful and a better fence ( 4-5 foot) would work bettter-- maybe. Supplier only has 4 foot right now......

Trying to move sheep to an area to clear it; Realization that the land is too raw to plant, and infested with ground hogs made me switch areas. Kicking the sheep out of their pen and use to grow the tomatoes instead.

And build new sheep feeders. DH picked up 4-5 long pallets PERFECT for making a 5 foot hay feeder. DH has been throwing hay on the ground, and that wastes sooooo much hay. ( Makes for a good bed that is well mulched!! ) Will put the boys on that project.

Not enough hours in a day!!!

What is everyone here working on??

 

[Arielle2]

Three lines potato beetle-- keep picking them morning and night. During the warmth of the mid-day, they are more likely to fly off. Capture rate is better when hands approach slowly, and hope the bug opts to retreat from the top of the leaf to the underside.

The findings started as single bugs over many plants; then they were usually doubled up, finding a mate to make lots of eggs. Getting both at the same time was a challenge. One day I destroyed 4 pairs in one go. Hurray!!!

As of yesterday, finding bugs is very hard. Eggs are in odd places now too. On lower leaves, on stems, on TOP of leaves. Could be 2-3 or the usual mass. Thank good ness the bright color helps the eye spot the eggs.

Expecting to see massive loss of leaves from missed egg masses. Keeping an eye out for that. Will pick off the leaves if invasion is limited. Otherwise..... need a powder or something from the organic realm.

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As for the tiny bird shot holes in all the potato leaves in one potato patch, they are a flea beetle. Many kinds of flea beetles. Most importantly, the larvae are wireworms that tunnel thru the tubers. WORSE damage than potato beetles. There is a nematode that will attack the wireworm. Just need to take that step to find a source of appropriate nematodes. Easy to apply, by spraying a liquid on the soils.

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Sheep still breaking into BIG potato field. Grass is greener I guess. THeir paddock of mixed

 

[Arielle2]

..... greens is not enough to stop them from busting thru the fencing. Gotta get that section of fence changed to 4-5 foot woven wire rather than wooden poles.

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Started planting in the old paddock for the sheep. Weather is warmer now, and feeling the pressure of mid June. Long cold rainy spring delayed planting. Plants just stagnant thru the cold.

Golden berries-- about 15 plants in one row. Tomatoes in a double row. Hoping the BIG hole under the dead birch is vacant. Threw in a handful of straw to test activity level. Will check later today.

Need to rush to get the tomatoes in. Not enough time.

Need to think how to control the plants from falling over. Might need to use the Florida Weave method. Always need MORE stakes, and twine. Stakes are the hardest to come by cheaply.

 

[Arielle2]

Ducks numbers are down. One hen has 3 ducklings that are penned and doing well. Graduated from a 1 qt waterer to a 9 x 13 pan with a big rock to play in. Waiting for two more hens to show up with ducklings.

Planning to move the males to an unused paddock-- high grass rich with clover. Just need a pen to lock up at night.

Need to get up electric fencing around orchard. Deer are passing thru and nibbling. Grrrr

Stark order shoed up. ORdered May 6, and apparently put on hold for one item. ONE! Arrived end of May, when could have been in weeks before. Frustrating. The strawberry plants are no good--- smelly bad. Three trees broke bud and had 3-4 inch leaves very pale white-greeny- yellow. More white than yellow. Worried they will not make it. Put in two in the ground. Potted up the others -- not convinced they will make it.

 

[Arielle2]

Listening to a podcast of Dr Tim Noakes, a doctor. A man who was a runner supporting the high carb diet until he read Dr Westman's book ( student of Dr Atkins) and how thru that one book he realized he had it all wrong!! Talkes in detail on how he changed his eating, got his diabetes under control by changing his food choices; and how sugar addiction kept him from making the best progress possible until he did kick sugar to the curb. He now includes intermittent fasting and has the diabetes under control via food management ( low carb and fasting) and metformin.
He discusses the failing of the medical profession, and the rise of the online media to share the information.
The fastest

He says even rheumatoid can be treated by changing to a lowcarb meat based- fat based diet. When the pain goes away, it works. I can say my wrist is NOT a problem-- ortho doc said 95% chance of arthritis--- but the low carb eating has kept the arthritis way. Love having 1-2-3 salads a day!!

Available One day only. See first post for link here: https://forum.lowcarber.org/showthread.php?t=482615

 

[Arielle2]

Squash are flowering-- all row covers removed. sigh. Now how to combat the squash vine borer!??!? In past years, thes buggers have cuased the death of ALL my summer squash vines by mid AUgust. Buggers.

Looking for options to further reduce thier impact......

https://savvygardening.com/how-to-prevent-squash-vine-borers-organically/
suggests row covers, and then wrap foil around stem and well into the soil; a contributor suggestes 3 layers of newspaper; another uses coffee grounds dumped around the base of the plant.

More suggestions, like wrapping before setting out the transplants. AMD details on the lifestyle of the bug that lays its eggs on the stems of squash vine.
https://www.gardensalive.com/product/squash-vine-borer-control

An interesting variation on this technique is to cut little pieces of row cover and use them to just wrap the vine itself. Do this before you plant, so that the covered section of the vine extends below the soil line; and add more wrapping as the vine grows larger.

But the most reliable cure may be to grow your squash out in the open and use vigilance to get the eggs. You may not be able to see them, but a weekly spray of the vine with insecticidal soap will smother them nonetheless (use a commercial product, not home-made; there is a fine line between beneficial soap and plant-killing herbicide).

Or use BTK. This is where I assure worried Emily that BTK is indeed organic and non-toxic; one of the oldest organic pest controls, in fact. Sold under brand names like Dipel, Thuricide and Green Step, this form of Bt ONLYkills caterpillars that munch on the sprayed plant part; it affects nothing else. So spray the vines once a week and there will be BTK on the stem when that hungry, hungry caterpillar comes out and starts munching.

Or just wipe the stems every five days vigorously with a damp cloth and wipe away the eggs. An Auburn University researcher found this tip in a farming book from the 1890's, when even now-ancient remedies like BT were still half a century in the future! Wiping with BTK or insecticidal soap should be even better.

Once the season is underway, carefully inspect each vine once a week; don't wait for wilting! If you see a hole near the soil line and that distinctive greenish frass (bug poop) that the borers push back out of their comfy new home, slit the vine with a razor blade and find the caterpillar inside. We will now flash forward to you later heaping compost-rich soil over the damaged part of the vine. (Remember—no laughing like The Joker!)

Or inject the attacked vine with BTK. Or beneficial nematodes; these microscopic garden helpers love to prey on tasty caterpillars, and the moist inside of the vine will protect the nematodes as they go a hunting. You'll find garden syringes sold for injecting nematodes and BTK at some garden centers and by mail order.

Some where I read to use ashes on the stems.... hoping to find more on that technique. I purposely kept a pail of ashes, though I have been using them as fertilizer for the ROMA tomatoes. Ah, good thing we use real wood for BBQing!!

MIgardender has a WONDERFUL pictorial showing the moth, the eggs AND the larvae!!!! He suggests strong smelling plants to mask the odor of the squash, like basil and mints. He uses peppermint on Q tips posted around the plants. AND sells a product as well.
https://migardener.com/prevent-squash-vine-borer-effectively-organically/

 

[Arielle2]

https://articles.extension.org/pages/65684/biology-and-management-of-squash-vine-borer-in-organic-farming-systems

Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer in Organic Farming Systems
Organic Agriculture April 29, 2019
SavePredicting Insect Development Using Degree Days. In Wisconsin, base-50 degree–days (DD50) are used to predict adult squash vine borer emergence, which is estimated to be around the time when 1000 (DD50) degree–days have accumulated (Delahut, 2005). Using information collected in a life history study in South Carolina (Canhilal et al., 2006), the duration of the pupal stage of squash vine borer was calculated to require 745 DD50 in rearing rooms maintained at 77°F. Depending on how much development an individual has to complete in the spring, first generation adult emergence can be expected between approximately 750 and 1000 accumulated DD50. Base 50 degree–days are also known as growing degree–days (GDD) and seasonal GDD accumulations may be available through your state Cooperative Extension system.

Female squash vine borers lay small (1/25 inch) disk-shaped, reddish-brown eggs at the base of plants or vines. Eggs take 9–11 days (~245–300 DD50) to hatch (Canhilal et al., 2006), and larvae burrow into stems within hours of hatching (Welty, 2009). Larvae are wrinkled, whitish worms with a brown head capsule (Fig. 2).

Figure 2. Squash vine borer larva. Figure credit: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series, Bugwood.org.

Two overlapping generations of squash vine borer occur in the south, and one—and possibly a partial second—generation occurs in the north, depending on the accumulated degree days during the growing season. Larvae feed for approximately 25–27 days (~660 DD50) (Canhilal et al., 2006) and when fully developed (about 1 inch long), leave the plant to pupate 1-6 inches deep in the soil. New adults emerge 22–52 days later in areas where enough heat units accumulate (~745 DD50) (Canhilal et al., 2006). A second generation of adults could be expected to emerge around 2430–2680 accumulated DD50. In the north a second generation would be less damaging in the field because it occurs so late in the season, when crops are nearly mature, but could be damaging in late plantings in the south or in season-extension structures in the north.

Diagnosis
Wilting of the entire plant, in the case of bush type squash, or one or more vines, in the case of vining type cucurbits, is the most noticeable sign of infestation. Diseases such as bacterial wilt or Fusarium wilt can cause similar symptoms. The primary feature for distinguishing squash vine borer from the two diseases is frass (insect excrement), which resembles wet sawdust, accumulating at the entrance to the larval tunnel (Fig. 3).

Figure 3. Squash vine borer larval tunnel, with accumulated frass. Figure credit: Alton N. Sparks, Jr., University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.

Examine the base of wilted plants or vines for frass or cut the stem on the diagonal to find larvae, tunneling damage, and frass accumulations (Fig. 4). If Fusarium wilt is to blame, the vascular tissue in the cut stem may appear reddish or brownish. For more information on Fusarium wilt see: Fusarium Diseases of Cucurbits. For more information on distinguishing squash vine borer damage from bacterial wilt see: Notes from the Pumpkin Patch in South Charleston.

Figure 4. Squash vine borer at base of damaged squash plant. If damaged plants are split open, the white, grub-like caterpillar can be found. These caterpillars show distinct external segmentation. Figure credit: Alton N. Sparks, Jr., University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.

Management
Cultural practices
Disrupting mature larvae or pupae in the plants or soil by tilling in crop debris soon after harvest is the primary cultural practice for preventing a buildup of squash vine borer. This can be particularly important for crops such as zucchini or summer squash where growers often make succession plantings, and abandoned plantings may be left standing because of busy summer harvest schedules. Making the effort to till under abandoned plantings will help prevent buildup of damaging populations. This practice can also help moderate powdery mildew epidemics by eliminating sporulating tissue, and providing a window for a weed-smothering mid-summer cover crop. For more information on cover cropping see the eXtension articles on cover crops.

Varietal preference
Most commercial varieties of cucurbits are one of three different species; Cucurbita pepo, which includes most summer squash, most pumpkin, and many long-keeping winter squash varieties; C. moschata, which includes butternut squash and some pumpkin varieties; and C. maxima, which includes Hubbard, Buttercup, Kabocha, and Jarrahdale types. The University of Illinois rated the attractiveness of 12 varieties of cucurbits and found that those that were C. maxima were most susceptible. C. pepo were intermediate, and C. moschata were least susceptible to damage from squash vine borer (Grupp, n.d.)



Table 1. Attractiveness of cucurbit cultivars to egg-laying by squash vine borer (5 = most attractive, 1 = least attractive).
Variety or Type Rating Scientific Name
Blue Hubbard (Hubbard Type) 5 C. maxima
Boston Marrow (Hubbard Type) 4 C. maxima
Golden Delicious (Hubbard Type) 4 C. maxima
Connecticut Field pumpkin 4 C. pepo
Small Sugar pumpkin 4 C. pepo
White Bush Scallop 3 C. pepo
Acorn 3 C. pepo
Summer Crookneck 2 C. pepo
Dickinson Pumpkin 2 C. moschata
Green striped cushaw 1 C.mixta
Butternut 1 C. moschata

While susceptibility to squash vine borer will not be the determining factor in your variety selection, knowing a variety's relative susceptibility can help you target your management efforts to the varieties at highest risk of infestation.

Perimeter Trap Cropping
If your main crop is a less-preferred variety, you can use the difference in varietal susceptibility to attract the bulk of egg-laying onto a more attractive crop planted around the perimeter of the field. Research at the University of Connecticut has shown squash vine borer reductions of 88% in main crops of zucchini or summer squash when a perimeter trap crop of Blue Hubbard squash is used (Boucher and Durgy, 2003). The trap crop can be either treated with an effective insecticide (see chemical control below) to prevent borer infestation, or destroyed after the peak egg-laying period is over to kill borers in the trap crop. For more information on perimeter trap cropping, see: Perimeter Trap Cropping for Yellow and Green Summer Squash.

Mechanical control
These techniques are only suitable for very small plantings. Examine stems during peak egg-laying and crush or remove eggs before hatching. If infestations are caught early in vining type plants, larvae may be removed by slitting the stem longitudinally near the entrance hole with a fine blade and covering the wounded stem with soil to promote new root growth (Welty, 2009).

Biological Control
The stage most susceptible to natural enemies is the egg stage, which is attacked by parasitic wasps. Larval and adult ground beetles can attack larvae of squash vine borer, but do not appear to cause significant mortality (Welty, 2009). Several species and strains of entomopathogenic nematodes have been tested against squash vine borer in South Carolina (Canhilal and Carner, 2006). Nematodes were either applied to the plant stem and adjacent soil with a backpack sprayer, or injected into the main stem. Results were variable, but in some trials Steinernema carpocapsaeor S. feltiae applied to the stem and soil provided control similar to a conventional insecticide. The injection method was generally less effective than the spray application. For more information about using entomopathogenic nematodes see: Insect-Parasitic Nematodes for the Management of Soil-Dwelling Insect Pests

Chemical control
Before applying any pest control product, make sure to include what you might want to use and how you intend to use it in your organic system plan and get your certifier's approval. (Caution: the use of an unapproved material can result in the loss of certification.) Always check with your certifier before purchasing or using a new product or material to ensure that it is permitted for use in your organic farming system. For more information, read the related article, Can I Use This Input On My Organic Farm?.

Spray timing is critical for effective chemical control of squash vine borer because the larvae begin to tunnel into the stem within hours of hatching from eggs (Welty, 2009), and once inside are protected from the application. Insecticide residues must be present at egg hatch so larvae contact or feed on residues as they enter the stem. Moth flights (and egg-laying) may be predicted by degree-day accumulations as described above or monitored by using pheromone traps. Small wire cone traps, nylon mesh Heliothis traps, and Unitrap bucket traps have been found to be most successful for monitoring squash vine borer (Jackson et al., 2005). Traps and lures may be purchased from Great Lakes IPM or Gemplers.

Several insecticidal active ingredients approved for organic production are labeled for use against squash vine borer, including azadirachtin (neem), neem oil, kaolin clay, geraniol, thyme oil, pyrethrins, and spinosad. Of these, efficacy information is currently available only for spinosad, and the formulation used in the trial was not the one approved for organic production. This trial, conducted in Connecticut, showed that four weekly applications of spinosad applied during the moth flight resulted in control levels similar to a conventional pyrethroid insecticide. Reductions in average number of squash vine borer per plant ranged between 67% for a 0.5 oz/A a.i. (active ingredient) rate and 87% for a 1 oz/A a.i. rate (Boucher and Durgy, 2002).

Stem injections of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) are frequently recommended for squash vine borer management, especially for organic gardeners. Trials in South Carolina compared spray application and stem injection of commercial formulations of Bt with a conventional insecticide and an untreated control (Canhilal and Carner, 2007). The injection and spray application methods produced similar results, and the Bt treatments provided control similar to that of the conventional insecticide. Note that Bt does not appear on the list of active ingredients currently EPA-labeled for use against squash vine borer.

Summary
Because squash vine borer is only a sporadic pest in large-scale conventional production, it has received relatively little research attention. Attention to post-harvest crop destruction will help prevent economically damaging levels from building up. Application of approved insecticides to the base of plants can be effective for current-season control while employing cultural practices to reduce economically damaging populations. Efficacy trials are needed for most of the labeled products approved for organic production.

References and Citations: