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Arielle2
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california based group promoting the growing of all manner of fruits, AND TEACHING. Geared toward California type climates.
https://crfg.org/
https://crfg.org/
Raising and Growing Our Organic and Not- So-Organic Foods
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Arielle2
Songster
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- #63
Arielle2
Songster
Basic grafting info....in great detail !
https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/grafting-and-budding-fruit-trees/
ITems suggested by this source fo grafting.
When to graft
It is best to graft in the spring, from the time the buds of understock trees are beginning to open, until blossom time. The usual time is April or early May.
Tools and materials needed
All grafts should be covered with a protective coating immediately after completing the graft.
Electrician's tape is an excellent material that will bind and protect graft unions. Choose a brand that is elastic and amply adhesive. A good tape for the purpose will stick well to itself. Do not stretch this tape too tightly or it may crack or weather. Better brands will last throughout the first summer, after which the tape is no longer needed.
Asphalt water emulsion is now widely used as a protective coating on graft unions. It is of pasty consistency and can be applied with a brush. It is preferable, however, to smear it on thicker with a small paddle.
https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/grafting-and-budding-fruit-trees/
ITems suggested by this source fo grafting.
When to graft
It is best to graft in the spring, from the time the buds of understock trees are beginning to open, until blossom time. The usual time is April or early May.
Tools and materials needed
- Budding knife
- Grafting knife
- A fine-tooth saw for cleft grafting
- Pruning shears
- Dormant scions (cultivar labeled)
- Tying material such as grafting tape, adhesive tape, electrician's ber tape or rubber strips
- Asphalt water emulsion compound for covering grafts
- A light hammer for bridge grafting
- A cleft-grafting chisel and mallet, or a heavy knife or hatchet can be used for a small job
All grafts should be covered with a protective coating immediately after completing the graft.
Electrician's tape is an excellent material that will bind and protect graft unions. Choose a brand that is elastic and amply adhesive. A good tape for the purpose will stick well to itself. Do not stretch this tape too tightly or it may crack or weather. Better brands will last throughout the first summer, after which the tape is no longer needed.
Asphalt water emulsion is now widely used as a protective coating on graft unions. It is of pasty consistency and can be applied with a brush. It is preferable, however, to smear it on thicker with a small paddle.
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Arielle2
Songster
From the above mentioned source, post 63
Methods of grafting
The whip graft
Figure 3. The whip graft is usually used for grafting root stocks and scions but can also be used for grafting small branches.
The whip graft is used mostly on young apple and pear trees when the branches are relatively small (not more than 1/2-inch in diameter) and the understock is about the same diameter as the scion of the new cultivar.
Cut – Cut off a branch of the understock, leaving a stub at least a foot long. Make a straight, slanting cut about 1 1/2inches long on both the scion and the stock (see A and C in Figure 3). Make the cut straight and even – one stroke with a sharp knife will do it. For the tongue, make a straight draw cut (not split), beginning near the top and cutting about the full length of the level (B and D).
Union – Match the two parts together (E). Unless the scion and stock are the same size, be sure the scion is in contact with the inner bark on one side. If the toe of either the stock or scion extend beyond the heel of the other, cut if off evenly.
Tying and covering – Bind tightly with tape, then carefully cover the union and binding material with grafting compound.
This type of graft is difficult for the beginner but is used extensively by experienced operators. It lends itself to the tape method of binding. Tape serves to seal the wound and bind the parts together.
While other types of grafts depend on the bark slipping well, the whip graft does not. In fact, it is best if you make this graft before the narrow tongue of wood.
Aftercare – Remove wrapping as soon as the scion has started to grow to prevent girdling of the tree.
The cleft graft
Figure 4. The cleft graft is the one to use on large branches
Figure 5. In this example of a cleft graft, three stages in the growth of a branch from a scion are shown
Figure 6. Trouble ahead in the next storm. Don't let two leaders compete
The cleft graft is used for topworking older established apple and pear trees, either on the trunk of a small tree or on the side branches of a larger tree. It is best adapted to branches 1 to 2 inches in diameter. The grafts are made within 2 to 3 feet of the trunk or main branches and preferably not more than 4 to 6 feet from ground, or new top of tree will be too high.
Cuts – Select a place free from knots and cut off the stock with a saw. Cut the cleft (avoid splitting if possible) with a grafting chisel, large knife or hatchet. After a few trials you will learn the proper depth of cleft. In horizontal branches, the cleft should be sidewise, that is, not perpendicular, to reduce breakage from birds and storms.
With a sloping cut about 1/4 inch above the upper bud, cut the scions to include three buds, and to a blunt wedge about 1 1/2 inches in length with one side slightly thicker than the other (see A and B in Figure 4). If the scion wedge is cut to a sharp point there is danger of the bark peeling. Also a sharp scion wedge' will not fit the cleft as well (C).
Union – Open the cleft slightly with a grafting tool or screw driver. Insert a scion on each side, with the inner bark of stock and scion in contact. Have the thick side of the scion outward (B).
Keep in mind that the bark of the larger stock is thicker than the scion bark, so the scion should not be flush with the stock. A very slight tilt will assure a contact, at least where the cambium layers cross (D).
Tying and covering – There is no need to tie, unless the stock is small and does not bind well. Cover the unions with grafting compound and be sure the cleft is covered its full length (E).
Aftercare – Scions that are growing vigorously will need attention to prevent breakage by birds, ice and storms. Either tie the scion to a supporting brace (see B in Figure 5), or pinch back the tips before growth becomes excessive. For additional support, circle all the shoots from one stub with twine (A).
During the first season, let all scions and the shoot growth from below the graft grow undisturbed. However, do not permit this understock growth to shade out the scions. The second spring, select the most suitable scion as the permanent branch and consider the others as spares. Leave the spare scions on to assist in healing over the stub, but cut them back to a few buds on each (see B). The third spring, severely cut back the spare scions again. In the fourth season, or when crowding is noted, cut off all of the spare scions as seems necessary (C).
The modified cleft graft
Figure 7. Modified cleft graft
Instead of trying to master the whip graft or side graft, use a simple kind of cleft graft on small understock. Stock (see B) about the same size as the scion (A) may be split and a wedge-shaped scion inserted.
Should the stock be larger than the scion, be careful to set the scion to one side instead of on center (C). In this way the cambium of stock and scion will make contact.
Wrap this graft union (D) carefully with a good grade of rubber tape. As the graft grows the tape stretches and eventually deteriorates.
Very large trees are generally poor subjects for cleft grafting, so when grafting their large branches, a slightly different method is ordinarily used.
Carefully saw off the branch undercutting it first to avoid tearing the bark. You may need to recut the stub to get it smooth. Saw the branch to receive the scions, instead of splitting it.
Make two saw cuts about 4 inches deep at right angles to each other across the end of the stub, making a + shape. Then fit the scions into the four places made by these cuts.
The side graft
Figure 8. In the side graft, the cut goes across the grain to reduce splitting.
Although the side graft is adapted to a wide range of branch sizes (1/4 to 3/4 inch diameter), its use is generally restricted to branches that are too large for the whip graft yet not large enough for the cleft graft. As the name suggests, the scion is inserted into the side of the stock, which is generally larger in diameter than the scion.
Cuts – Select a smooth place on the understock branch at least a foot from the trunk. Make a slanting cut at a narrow angle almost to the pith (core of the branch) (see B in Figure 8). Cut the scion to a short, sharp wedge (about 1 inch) with one side thicker than the other (see A).
Union – Bend the branch slightly to open the cut. Press the scion in so the cambium layers of the stock and scion meet at one side (C).
Tying and covering – Tying is unnecessary if the stock binds well, but you may have to tie small materials if the scion is not held firmly. Cut surfaces should then be covered with grafting compound (E).
Aftercare – In about two weeks, cut off the stock above the union (D) using sharp shears in order to avoid disturbing the scion. Then cover the cut surface with grafting compound (E).
If the graft has been tied, cut the binding shortly after growth starts; this will prevent girdling. In the first season, you may allow some shoot growth from below the graft, but do not permit this growth to shade the scion growth. After the first season, all growth should be cut off, except that of the graft.
Inspect grafts during the growing season to guard against faulty covering or binding. If shoots are attacked by fire blight, cut them 6 inches below the visible symptoms.
Budding
Figure 9. In budding, a single bud does the work of a scion.
Budding is a form of grafting in which a single bud is used as the scion rather than a section of stem. It is the most commonly used method for fruit tree production in the nursery, but can also be used for topworking plum, cherry, apricots, and peach as well as young apple and pear trees. (Cherry, plum, apricot, and peach are not easily cleft grafted or whip grafted.)
Budding is done in the summer, usually from July 15 to August 15, when the bark of the stock slips easily and when there are well-grown buds. The first step is to cut bud sticks of the desired cultivar from strong shoots of the present season's growth (see A in Figure 9). These buds should be mature, as indicated by a slightly brownish color.
Clip off the leaves as soon as the bud sticks are cut, leaving about 1/2 inch of the leafstalk for a handle. Discard the soft tips of the bud sticks. Wrap the bud sticks in moist burlap, moss or paper to prevent drying out.
Branches from the size of a lead pencil up to 1/2-inch diameter may be worked by this method. The bark of larger branches is too thick for satisfactory budding.
Cut – On the branches of the stock, about 15 inches or more from the trunk, make a T cut just across the bark (C). Then, with a knife blade or bark separator, lift the corners and carefully loosen the bark.
Bud with wood attached
Cut a bud from bud stick (A) which includes a thin piece of attached wood (B). Start the bud under the flaps of bark and lead it down by the handle (D and E).
Tying – Use rubber strips, electrician's tape, or adhesive tape to tie the bud. Wrap and tie tightly, but be sure you do not cover the bud (F).
Aftercare – Cut the tie before it binds too tightly – that is, in two or three weeks. Cut on the side away from the bud. Rubber strips need not be cut. The bud should remain dormant until the following spring. Cut off the stock above the bud as soon as the bud starts growing.
Do not permit any shoot growth.
After the second year, remove all extra growth from the stock, that is, keep only the bud grafted shoots. When two or more buds grow, all can be used, but one is usually enough to produce a new branch.
Bud with wood removed
Figure 10. Bud with wood removed
As illustrated in Figure 10, cut from A well under the bud to B. Remove the knife and rock the blade just through the bark at B. Grasp the bark between your thumb and finger and pinch the bark with attached bud (C) free from the wood (D). If the bud stick is fresh and in good condition, you will be successful after a few tries.
Buds which have the sliver of wood removed have a complete cambium surface exposed to meet the cambium of the stock and sometimes result in better growth, but they are not rigid enough to handle easily. Buds with wood attached are easier to handle and usually give good results. (See above, for "Tying" and "Aftercare" of the bud.)
Methods of grafting
The whip graft
Figure 3. The whip graft is usually used for grafting root stocks and scions but can also be used for grafting small branches.
The whip graft is used mostly on young apple and pear trees when the branches are relatively small (not more than 1/2-inch in diameter) and the understock is about the same diameter as the scion of the new cultivar.
Cut – Cut off a branch of the understock, leaving a stub at least a foot long. Make a straight, slanting cut about 1 1/2inches long on both the scion and the stock (see A and C in Figure 3). Make the cut straight and even – one stroke with a sharp knife will do it. For the tongue, make a straight draw cut (not split), beginning near the top and cutting about the full length of the level (B and D).
Union – Match the two parts together (E). Unless the scion and stock are the same size, be sure the scion is in contact with the inner bark on one side. If the toe of either the stock or scion extend beyond the heel of the other, cut if off evenly.
Tying and covering – Bind tightly with tape, then carefully cover the union and binding material with grafting compound.
This type of graft is difficult for the beginner but is used extensively by experienced operators. It lends itself to the tape method of binding. Tape serves to seal the wound and bind the parts together.
While other types of grafts depend on the bark slipping well, the whip graft does not. In fact, it is best if you make this graft before the narrow tongue of wood.
Aftercare – Remove wrapping as soon as the scion has started to grow to prevent girdling of the tree.
The cleft graft
Figure 4. The cleft graft is the one to use on large branches
Figure 5. In this example of a cleft graft, three stages in the growth of a branch from a scion are shown
Figure 6. Trouble ahead in the next storm. Don't let two leaders compete
The cleft graft is used for topworking older established apple and pear trees, either on the trunk of a small tree or on the side branches of a larger tree. It is best adapted to branches 1 to 2 inches in diameter. The grafts are made within 2 to 3 feet of the trunk or main branches and preferably not more than 4 to 6 feet from ground, or new top of tree will be too high.
Cuts – Select a place free from knots and cut off the stock with a saw. Cut the cleft (avoid splitting if possible) with a grafting chisel, large knife or hatchet. After a few trials you will learn the proper depth of cleft. In horizontal branches, the cleft should be sidewise, that is, not perpendicular, to reduce breakage from birds and storms.
With a sloping cut about 1/4 inch above the upper bud, cut the scions to include three buds, and to a blunt wedge about 1 1/2 inches in length with one side slightly thicker than the other (see A and B in Figure 4). If the scion wedge is cut to a sharp point there is danger of the bark peeling. Also a sharp scion wedge' will not fit the cleft as well (C).
Union – Open the cleft slightly with a grafting tool or screw driver. Insert a scion on each side, with the inner bark of stock and scion in contact. Have the thick side of the scion outward (B).
Keep in mind that the bark of the larger stock is thicker than the scion bark, so the scion should not be flush with the stock. A very slight tilt will assure a contact, at least where the cambium layers cross (D).
Tying and covering – There is no need to tie, unless the stock is small and does not bind well. Cover the unions with grafting compound and be sure the cleft is covered its full length (E).
Aftercare – Scions that are growing vigorously will need attention to prevent breakage by birds, ice and storms. Either tie the scion to a supporting brace (see B in Figure 5), or pinch back the tips before growth becomes excessive. For additional support, circle all the shoots from one stub with twine (A).
During the first season, let all scions and the shoot growth from below the graft grow undisturbed. However, do not permit this understock growth to shade out the scions. The second spring, select the most suitable scion as the permanent branch and consider the others as spares. Leave the spare scions on to assist in healing over the stub, but cut them back to a few buds on each (see B). The third spring, severely cut back the spare scions again. In the fourth season, or when crowding is noted, cut off all of the spare scions as seems necessary (C).
The modified cleft graft
Figure 7. Modified cleft graft
Instead of trying to master the whip graft or side graft, use a simple kind of cleft graft on small understock. Stock (see B) about the same size as the scion (A) may be split and a wedge-shaped scion inserted.
Should the stock be larger than the scion, be careful to set the scion to one side instead of on center (C). In this way the cambium of stock and scion will make contact.
Wrap this graft union (D) carefully with a good grade of rubber tape. As the graft grows the tape stretches and eventually deteriorates.
Very large trees are generally poor subjects for cleft grafting, so when grafting their large branches, a slightly different method is ordinarily used.
Carefully saw off the branch undercutting it first to avoid tearing the bark. You may need to recut the stub to get it smooth. Saw the branch to receive the scions, instead of splitting it.
Make two saw cuts about 4 inches deep at right angles to each other across the end of the stub, making a + shape. Then fit the scions into the four places made by these cuts.
The side graft
Figure 8. In the side graft, the cut goes across the grain to reduce splitting.
Although the side graft is adapted to a wide range of branch sizes (1/4 to 3/4 inch diameter), its use is generally restricted to branches that are too large for the whip graft yet not large enough for the cleft graft. As the name suggests, the scion is inserted into the side of the stock, which is generally larger in diameter than the scion.
Cuts – Select a smooth place on the understock branch at least a foot from the trunk. Make a slanting cut at a narrow angle almost to the pith (core of the branch) (see B in Figure 8). Cut the scion to a short, sharp wedge (about 1 inch) with one side thicker than the other (see A).
Union – Bend the branch slightly to open the cut. Press the scion in so the cambium layers of the stock and scion meet at one side (C).
Tying and covering – Tying is unnecessary if the stock binds well, but you may have to tie small materials if the scion is not held firmly. Cut surfaces should then be covered with grafting compound (E).
Aftercare – In about two weeks, cut off the stock above the union (D) using sharp shears in order to avoid disturbing the scion. Then cover the cut surface with grafting compound (E).
If the graft has been tied, cut the binding shortly after growth starts; this will prevent girdling. In the first season, you may allow some shoot growth from below the graft, but do not permit this growth to shade the scion growth. After the first season, all growth should be cut off, except that of the graft.
Inspect grafts during the growing season to guard against faulty covering or binding. If shoots are attacked by fire blight, cut them 6 inches below the visible symptoms.
Budding
Figure 9. In budding, a single bud does the work of a scion.
Budding is a form of grafting in which a single bud is used as the scion rather than a section of stem. It is the most commonly used method for fruit tree production in the nursery, but can also be used for topworking plum, cherry, apricots, and peach as well as young apple and pear trees. (Cherry, plum, apricot, and peach are not easily cleft grafted or whip grafted.)
Budding is done in the summer, usually from July 15 to August 15, when the bark of the stock slips easily and when there are well-grown buds. The first step is to cut bud sticks of the desired cultivar from strong shoots of the present season's growth (see A in Figure 9). These buds should be mature, as indicated by a slightly brownish color.
Clip off the leaves as soon as the bud sticks are cut, leaving about 1/2 inch of the leafstalk for a handle. Discard the soft tips of the bud sticks. Wrap the bud sticks in moist burlap, moss or paper to prevent drying out.
Branches from the size of a lead pencil up to 1/2-inch diameter may be worked by this method. The bark of larger branches is too thick for satisfactory budding.
Cut – On the branches of the stock, about 15 inches or more from the trunk, make a T cut just across the bark (C). Then, with a knife blade or bark separator, lift the corners and carefully loosen the bark.
Bud with wood attached
Cut a bud from bud stick (A) which includes a thin piece of attached wood (B). Start the bud under the flaps of bark and lead it down by the handle (D and E).
Tying – Use rubber strips, electrician's tape, or adhesive tape to tie the bud. Wrap and tie tightly, but be sure you do not cover the bud (F).
Aftercare – Cut the tie before it binds too tightly – that is, in two or three weeks. Cut on the side away from the bud. Rubber strips need not be cut. The bud should remain dormant until the following spring. Cut off the stock above the bud as soon as the bud starts growing.
Do not permit any shoot growth.
After the second year, remove all extra growth from the stock, that is, keep only the bud grafted shoots. When two or more buds grow, all can be used, but one is usually enough to produce a new branch.
Bud with wood removed
Figure 10. Bud with wood removed
As illustrated in Figure 10, cut from A well under the bud to B. Remove the knife and rock the blade just through the bark at B. Grasp the bark between your thumb and finger and pinch the bark with attached bud (C) free from the wood (D). If the bud stick is fresh and in good condition, you will be successful after a few tries.
Buds which have the sliver of wood removed have a complete cambium surface exposed to meet the cambium of the stock and sometimes result in better growth, but they are not rigid enough to handle easily. Buds with wood attached are easier to handle and usually give good results. (See above, for "Tying" and "Aftercare" of the bud.)
Last edited:
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- #65
Arielle2
Songster
QUIZ TIME.......
What is the name of this type of graft??????
What is the name of this type of graft??????
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Arielle2
Songster
The name of this type of graft????
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- #67
Arielle2
Songster
More views.
Modified cleft graft.
Modified cleft graft.
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- #68
Arielle2
Songster
Put in an order for root stock G.222 20 count, and 8 scions. Hard to pick from a limited number of 12---lol , made choosing easier. Forgot to pick out the one I have been searching for and the reason for the order. Spartan. Maybe next year, and graft it to another apple rather than a rootstock.
Black berries and strawberries should arrive soon. I just read blackberries not to go with 'raspberries. But cant find the reference to reread it. My understanding from a a different source was do not put blackberries with BLACK raspberries, other colors like red and gold and purple is fine. Apparently the black raspberries are more suspetable to diseases that can transfer to the blackberries.
Great planning and planting info for black berries. Nourse Farms in Whately, Massachusetts.
https://www.noursefarms.com/how-to-grow/blackberries/
Black berries and strawberries should arrive soon. I just read blackberries not to go with 'raspberries. But cant find the reference to reread it. My understanding from a a different source was do not put blackberries with BLACK raspberries, other colors like red and gold and purple is fine. Apparently the black raspberries are more suspetable to diseases that can transfer to the blackberries.
Great planning and planting info for black berries. Nourse Farms in Whately, Massachusetts.
https://www.noursefarms.com/how-to-grow/blackberries/
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Arielle2
Songster
Remember that how a plant performs can vary by growing location. But these look promising!
https://anoregoncottage.com/triple-crown-thornless-blackberries/
From the blogger, An Oregon Cottage
AUGUST 23, 2016
5 REASONS TO GROW TRIPLE CROWN THORNLESS BLACKBERRIES
Make room in your yard for Triple Crown Thornless Blackberries (at least 1 but more is better!) and you will have access to some of the most amazing berries around.
Triple Crown Blackberry has become our family’s favorite blackberry – and not just because it’s thornless (though we do love the ease of harvest). It has a LOT more going for it and has *gasp* dethroned our beloved Marionberry as the most amazing berry to grow.
I planted 3 bushes in an 8-ft. row three years ago just because they were thornless. Really – I didn’t know anything about the Triple Crown variety, but I wanted to replace some out-of-control super thorny blackberries that refused to die completely even after 3 years of being covered (sometimes with plywood!). I thought if I planted thornless berries, I’d always be able to tell if the rogue berry was showing again because it would have thorns. And it worked – when any small thorny shoot comes up it is easy to tell it’s not supposed to be there.
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But then, we started realizing that the berries on these thornless bushes were SO very good. And some of them were super-sized berries. And they produced a long time. By year three, those 3 little bushes produced enough blackberries to fill all our fresh-eating desires (including desserts like refreshing berry parfaits and big crumb berry crisps) plus 10 quart bags of frozen berries. That’s when I knew I needed to share this discovery with you! Some links in this article are affiliate links and if you click on them I will receive a small commission at no cost to you – thanks for your support!
Where to Buy Triple Crown Thornless Blackberries (click to go to page listings)
Basic Growing Information
5 REASONS TO GROW TRIPLE CROWN THORNLESS BLACKBERRIES
1. They produce over a long period. Most of the growing guides say a 4-5 week harvest, which is a couple weeks longer than many berries, but our plants produce almost 2 months! Of that, 4 weeks is the “main” harvest with large bowls filled every 2-4 days. After that, they keep producing smaller bowls full of fruit as the berries continue to ripen.
In the photo above you can see the berries that have been picked, those that are ready to be picked now, redder berries to the right that will ripen in a week and even green berries that will ripen in a couple weeks.
2. They are easy to pick. Uh, obviously since “thornless” in is their name. But if you’ve grown up picking any berries at all, you will realize the absolute joy it is to see the “perfect” berry hanging just out of reach…but then stick your hand in there anyway because – no thorns. There are no out-of-reach berries here!
3. They are compact and easy to maintain. The canes are very sturdy and when you get long canes in early spring and again in mid-summer (that don’t have fruit on them), like the canes in the photo above, you just cut them back to the height of the other canes (tip-pruning). In spring, these then grow lateral shoots, making a compact berry ‘bush.’ This makes them perfect for smaller backyards – you could even grown them next to a house.
These canes never get out-of-control like some other vining berry canes we know and love:
These are our Marionberry plants, a berry that is pretty much an Oregon legend. They have a complex flavor that I’ve always thought no other berry could come close to – until Triple Crown came into our lives. And Marionberry’s super-thorny, really long vines need a lot more attention – and I always end up scratched. I still love Marionberries and since they produce in June, they help us harvest blackberries all summer, but if we ever have a smaller space, I won’t be able to grow them anymore.
4. The berries can grow HUGE. The plants produce all sizes of berries, but some are just gigantic, like the bottom berry above. One end of our row gets more water than the other end, so the berries more adequately watered are consistently bigger. And let me tell you, finding – and eating – a berry that size never gets old.
5. They are super flavorful. Like I mentioned, I didn’t think any berry could compare to Marionberries, but the taste of these berries are amazing. The firmer berries can be sweet-tart, while the older berries that are just starting to turn “dull” are more fully sweet, but we like them all. There’s a lot of depth to the flavor and everyone we’ve shared them with (and that’s a lot, because I love to tell everyone about these!) thinks the same. Trust me on this.
I’ll leave off with this photo taken in early August:
All the stages of berries are illustrated here, from flower to already harvested. This mean weeks of delicious, huge, easy-to-pick berries are in your future – if you plant them.
So guess what I want you to do?
(Tip: the deals on Amazon are pretty good, actually – I bought ours online and they did great. You just want to make sure there is a money-back guarantee if they don’t make it the first few months)
TELL ME – WHO ELSE GROWS THESE BERRIES? DO YOU LIKE THEM AS MUCH AS WE DO?
Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links and by clicking on them you help support AOC at no extra cost to you – thanks so much! Plus you can trust I’ll only share what I love. (You can always read our entire disclosure page here.)
https://anoregoncottage.com/triple-crown-thornless-blackberries/
From the blogger, An Oregon Cottage
AUGUST 23, 2016
5 REASONS TO GROW TRIPLE CROWN THORNLESS BLACKBERRIES
Make room in your yard for Triple Crown Thornless Blackberries (at least 1 but more is better!) and you will have access to some of the most amazing berries around.
Triple Crown Blackberry has become our family’s favorite blackberry – and not just because it’s thornless (though we do love the ease of harvest). It has a LOT more going for it and has *gasp* dethroned our beloved Marionberry as the most amazing berry to grow.
I planted 3 bushes in an 8-ft. row three years ago just because they were thornless. Really – I didn’t know anything about the Triple Crown variety, but I wanted to replace some out-of-control super thorny blackberries that refused to die completely even after 3 years of being covered (sometimes with plywood!). I thought if I planted thornless berries, I’d always be able to tell if the rogue berry was showing again because it would have thorns. And it worked – when any small thorny shoot comes up it is easy to tell it’s not supposed to be there.
But then, we started realizing that the berries on these thornless bushes were SO very good. And some of them were super-sized berries. And they produced a long time. By year three, those 3 little bushes produced enough blackberries to fill all our fresh-eating desires (including desserts like refreshing berry parfaits and big crumb berry crisps) plus 10 quart bags of frozen berries. That’s when I knew I needed to share this discovery with you! Some links in this article are affiliate links and if you click on them I will receive a small commission at no cost to you – thanks for your support!
Where to Buy Triple Crown Thornless Blackberries (click to go to page listings)
- Amazon
- Stark Brothers online
- Burpee online (this is where I ordered mine from a couple years ago)
- Gurney’s online
Basic Growing Information
- Triple Crown blackberry is named for its three attributes; flavor, productivity and vigor. It’s also disease resistant and grows huge berries.
- Grow in zones 5-9, though they have insufficient cold hardiness for many northern regions except in tunnels.
- The recommended spacing is 5 ft apart (ours are only 3-4 ft. apart and obviously do well).
- They like slightly acidic, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade.
- Very sturdy canes; considered semi-erect because they produce some longer, new non-fruiting canes mid-summer – just cut them to 4-5 ft. when they get long (for established shrubs). This is called “tip-pruning.”
- Immediately after fruit harvest, remove all canes that fruited to the ground. In late winter to early spring, remove any canes damaged by winter and thin the remaining canes to 4 or 5 strong, well-spaced canes plus trim the laterals thereof. Plants generally perform best when staked.
5 REASONS TO GROW TRIPLE CROWN THORNLESS BLACKBERRIES
1. They produce over a long period. Most of the growing guides say a 4-5 week harvest, which is a couple weeks longer than many berries, but our plants produce almost 2 months! Of that, 4 weeks is the “main” harvest with large bowls filled every 2-4 days. After that, they keep producing smaller bowls full of fruit as the berries continue to ripen.
In the photo above you can see the berries that have been picked, those that are ready to be picked now, redder berries to the right that will ripen in a week and even green berries that will ripen in a couple weeks.
2. They are easy to pick. Uh, obviously since “thornless” in is their name. But if you’ve grown up picking any berries at all, you will realize the absolute joy it is to see the “perfect” berry hanging just out of reach…but then stick your hand in there anyway because – no thorns. There are no out-of-reach berries here!
3. They are compact and easy to maintain. The canes are very sturdy and when you get long canes in early spring and again in mid-summer (that don’t have fruit on them), like the canes in the photo above, you just cut them back to the height of the other canes (tip-pruning). In spring, these then grow lateral shoots, making a compact berry ‘bush.’ This makes them perfect for smaller backyards – you could even grown them next to a house.
These canes never get out-of-control like some other vining berry canes we know and love:
These are our Marionberry plants, a berry that is pretty much an Oregon legend. They have a complex flavor that I’ve always thought no other berry could come close to – until Triple Crown came into our lives. And Marionberry’s super-thorny, really long vines need a lot more attention – and I always end up scratched. I still love Marionberries and since they produce in June, they help us harvest blackberries all summer, but if we ever have a smaller space, I won’t be able to grow them anymore.
4. The berries can grow HUGE. The plants produce all sizes of berries, but some are just gigantic, like the bottom berry above. One end of our row gets more water than the other end, so the berries more adequately watered are consistently bigger. And let me tell you, finding – and eating – a berry that size never gets old.
5. They are super flavorful. Like I mentioned, I didn’t think any berry could compare to Marionberries, but the taste of these berries are amazing. The firmer berries can be sweet-tart, while the older berries that are just starting to turn “dull” are more fully sweet, but we like them all. There’s a lot of depth to the flavor and everyone we’ve shared them with (and that’s a lot, because I love to tell everyone about these!) thinks the same. Trust me on this.
I’ll leave off with this photo taken in early August:
All the stages of berries are illustrated here, from flower to already harvested. This mean weeks of delicious, huge, easy-to-pick berries are in your future – if you plant them.
So guess what I want you to do?
(Tip: the deals on Amazon are pretty good, actually – I bought ours online and they did great. You just want to make sure there is a money-back guarantee if they don’t make it the first few months)
TELL ME – WHO ELSE GROWS THESE BERRIES? DO YOU LIKE THEM AS MUCH AS WE DO?
Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links and by clicking on them you help support AOC at no extra cost to you – thanks so much! Plus you can trust I’ll only share what I love. (You can always read our entire disclosure page here.)
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Arielle2
Songster
Caring for Thornless Blackberries
Related Articles
Thornless blackberries are perennial plants with biennial growth and fruiting habits. Blackberry plants grow in a spreading shrub habit and are classed as either erect or semi-trailing. The tall, woody canes of thornless blackberry plants produce green foliage and fruit. Yields can be increased and fruit quality improved with proper care, which includes training and pruning.
Soil and Location
Thornless blackberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. They require rich, moist, soil and full sun exposure to thrive. Thornless blackberries prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7. Plant new plants in early fall or early spring in well-drained soil that contains no less than 2 percent humus or organic material. Thornless blackberries prefer sandy loams amended with coarse sands or clays. As vigorous growers, thornless blackberries need a good amount of space, so space plants about 5 feet apart. They are not deeply rooted plants, so cover new plants with only about 4 inches of soil.
Feeding and Watering
Thornless blackberries require about an inch of water per week to stay healthy. In dry conditions, increase watering if the soil is dry. Thornless blackberry plants should be perpetually mulched with about 4 inches of organic material such as bark, sawdust or straw. Apply mulch between late fall and early spring, when soil is moist. Mulching encourages growth of the fibrous blackberry root system. After the first year of growth, you can add fertilizer around the time of bloom and again after harvest. Use a total of about 10 pounds of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-20-10, or 5 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of plant row. Apply half the fertilizer at the first application and the rest at the second.
Training and Trellising
Thornless blackberries grow to about 5 feet tall with an equal spread. Supporting your blackberry plant with a trellis allows air and sunlight to reach all parts of the plant. There are a variety of trellis systems that work, but a good basic design uses wire stretched between posts that are set into the ground about 20 feet apart. For semi-trailing varieties such as "Logan" or "Waldo," attach one wire 3 feet up the pole and another 5 feet up. Attach a single wire about 30 inches from the ground to trellis erect varieties such as "Navaho" or "Arapaho." Begin training the plant to climb the trellis by tying new shoots to the wire when they reach about 4 to 6 feet long. Do not bunch shoots together. If you don’t wish to trellis your plant, trim the tops of new canes during the summer months, limiting growth to about 3 to 4 feet.
Pruning
After harvest, prune old or dead canes from your thornless blackberry plant. Make the cuts near the crown and clean up any debris from the soil. To prevent the spread of disease, burn or discard all old or dead plant material. Prune damaged or weak canes as well, leaving at least four to eight new shoots on each cane. Remove the tips of the current season’s growth to encourage lateral branching. In the spring, before new growth forms, prune lateral branches back to about 12 inches to encourage larger fruit production. Erect varieties of thornless blackberries, such as "Cherokee," produce root suckers, which grow from the crown of the plant. Prune these when they reach about 1 foot in length so that they don’t steal nutrients from the rest of the plant.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/caring-thornless-blackberries-42288.html
Related Articles
- How to Prune a Thornless Blackberry Bush After Fruit Harvest
- The Best Time of Year to Trim Blackberry Vines
- How to Propagate a Blackberry Vine From a Cutting
- How to Grow Thornless Blackberries
Thornless blackberries are perennial plants with biennial growth and fruiting habits. Blackberry plants grow in a spreading shrub habit and are classed as either erect or semi-trailing. The tall, woody canes of thornless blackberry plants produce green foliage and fruit. Yields can be increased and fruit quality improved with proper care, which includes training and pruning.
Soil and Location
Thornless blackberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. They require rich, moist, soil and full sun exposure to thrive. Thornless blackberries prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH ranging from 6.5 to 7. Plant new plants in early fall or early spring in well-drained soil that contains no less than 2 percent humus or organic material. Thornless blackberries prefer sandy loams amended with coarse sands or clays. As vigorous growers, thornless blackberries need a good amount of space, so space plants about 5 feet apart. They are not deeply rooted plants, so cover new plants with only about 4 inches of soil.
Feeding and Watering
Thornless blackberries require about an inch of water per week to stay healthy. In dry conditions, increase watering if the soil is dry. Thornless blackberry plants should be perpetually mulched with about 4 inches of organic material such as bark, sawdust or straw. Apply mulch between late fall and early spring, when soil is moist. Mulching encourages growth of the fibrous blackberry root system. After the first year of growth, you can add fertilizer around the time of bloom and again after harvest. Use a total of about 10 pounds of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-20-10, or 5 pounds of ammonium nitrate per 100 feet of plant row. Apply half the fertilizer at the first application and the rest at the second.
Training and Trellising
Thornless blackberries grow to about 5 feet tall with an equal spread. Supporting your blackberry plant with a trellis allows air and sunlight to reach all parts of the plant. There are a variety of trellis systems that work, but a good basic design uses wire stretched between posts that are set into the ground about 20 feet apart. For semi-trailing varieties such as "Logan" or "Waldo," attach one wire 3 feet up the pole and another 5 feet up. Attach a single wire about 30 inches from the ground to trellis erect varieties such as "Navaho" or "Arapaho." Begin training the plant to climb the trellis by tying new shoots to the wire when they reach about 4 to 6 feet long. Do not bunch shoots together. If you don’t wish to trellis your plant, trim the tops of new canes during the summer months, limiting growth to about 3 to 4 feet.
Pruning
After harvest, prune old or dead canes from your thornless blackberry plant. Make the cuts near the crown and clean up any debris from the soil. To prevent the spread of disease, burn or discard all old or dead plant material. Prune damaged or weak canes as well, leaving at least four to eight new shoots on each cane. Remove the tips of the current season’s growth to encourage lateral branching. In the spring, before new growth forms, prune lateral branches back to about 12 inches to encourage larger fruit production. Erect varieties of thornless blackberries, such as "Cherokee," produce root suckers, which grow from the crown of the plant. Prune these when they reach about 1 foot in length so that they don’t steal nutrients from the rest of the plant.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/caring-thornless-blackberries-42288.html
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