Rooster comb turning purple/blue??? HELP

KooKoe

Songster
9 Years
Nov 14, 2010
173
4
101
My rooster has been under the weather for a few dayys. quite hoarse sounding and now the tips of his comb are turning purple. he has no other symptoms. what could this be?
 
I wanted to post this info.so people will check for other problems such as FUNGAL. There seems to always be an assumption its viral related. Blue Comb can also be Yeast Related-Fungal. There are some things you should check because I have been dealing SPECIFICALLY with a Crop Fungal situation. My Roosters legs will get slightly red but More Important his Comb Turns Blue.

AT FIRST it was 50%. As I continued treating it regressed to only the tips & back side of Comb. TWO THINGS YOU SHOULD OBSERVE. 1. BE SURE TO GENTLY CHECK THE CROP ESPECIALLY THE BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER. PROCEED TO FOLLOW THAT UP TO THE TOP RIGHT CORNER. YOU WANT TO "GENTLY" PALPATE WITH YOUR FINGERS(TRY NOT TO PINCH). IF YOU FIND A LUMP THAT SEEMS SEMI HARD OR A THICKENING IN THE CROP LINING THEN ITS FUNGAL. 2. BE SURE TO CHECK THEIR FECAL. THE YEAST WILL BE WHITE LIKE THEIR UREA BUT IT HAS MORE OF A STRINGY LOOK OR A WHITE STRINGY APPEARANCE. NORMAL UREA LEAVES A SORT OF CHALKY LOOK. CROP FUNGUS -YEAST IS CONTAGIOUS. WHEN THEY DRINK THEY TEND TO REGURGITATE THEIR WATER A BIT ALONG WITH THEIR FOOD "IF" ITS CROP FUNGUS. THEY WILL ALSO PICK UP PELLET & DROP IT ESPECIALLY THE LONGER PIECES. ANOTHER GREAT SIGN YOU HAVE THIS ISSUE IS CHECK TO SEE IF THEY HAVE BREAST TISSUE!!! THEY MAY STILL HAVE MUSCLE ON THEIR LEGS BUT THEIR BREASTS DISAPPEAR. THE YEAST-FUNGUS LITERALLY EATS & STORES THE CARBS/SUGAR.

When the fungus content passes to the Intestines it causes swelling & this is when the Comb turns Blue. There are 2 typical times this will happen. The first is while eating/drinking & for the first 5-10min. Then usually it will start regressing. The other time I notice this is usually when the Crop is completely empty & its Hot outside. IF the Hen or Rooster has not drank the Heat will start dissolving the mass & then you have the Fungal content sitting at the ctr. of the Crop. There will be some that will work its way out into the Intestines & then they turn Blue again.

Crop Fungus is a Bear to Treat. I have posted some threads under Yeast or Fungal. You may contact me with your findings & I will try to assist you. The reason I say this is because each situation is different. The Time of Year(weather),the size of the mass,etc. I prefer to know specifics. It has taken me "2 YEARS" to FINALLY get the treatment right due to variables & I HAVE A MEDICAL BACKGROUND. I EVEN TOOK MY HENS TO AN AVIAN VET & TRIED DRUGS SUCH AS ITRACONAZOLE /NYSTATIN. MY VET MORE OR LESS SAID "IT CAN'T BE FUNGAL OR THESE DRUGS WOULD HAVE CURED IT & I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO FOR YOU ANYMORE(OF COURSE SHE WOULDN'T TURN AWAY MORE $$$ IF I WANTED TO PURSUE IT). WE HAD ALREADY DONE CULTURES SO WE ALREADY KNEW IT WAS FUNGAL. I CAN'T BELIEVE AN AVIAN VET OF 30YRS. DIDN'T TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE STRAIN OF FUNGUS & LOCATION. ITRACONAZOLE WAS THE BEST BUT THERE ARE OTHER FACTORS SUCH AS PROPER PH. THIS IS A COMPOUNDED DRUG. THEY ALSO USE ADDITIVES SUCH AS FLAVORING,STEVIA,ETC. IF THE COMPOUND IS NOT MIXED CORRECTLY THEN YOU GET DIPS.

ANYWAYS BE SURE TO CHECK FOR THESE THINGS BECAUSE YES IT IS DUE TO A LACK OF OXYGEN/STRESS BUT IT MAY NOT BE VIRAL. MOST START TREATING WITH ANTIBIOTICS & IN MOST CASES THIS IS BAD. THE ONLY ONE I HAD SOME SUCCESS WITH IN THE VERY BEGINNING WAS "INJECTIONS" OF LA200. THE REASON FOR THAT WAS BECAUSE THE LA KILLED OFF "ALL" THE BACTERIA BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY LA 200 INJECTIONS (INJECTING TETRACYCLINE AT HIGHER DOSES) HAS A DRYING OUT AFFECT. THE BAD PART IS YOU ZAP THE GOOD BACTERIA OUT .
FUNGUS NEEDS A FEW THINGS TO SURVIVE. THE TOP 3 ARE SUGAR(CARBS) WATER & AIR. SALT IS BAD ALSO BECAUSE IT RETAINS THE WATER.
AS I STATED FEEL FREE TO CONTACT ME. I WILL SAY IF ITS A VERY MILD CASE TRY GETTING SOME KIEFER.
I SUGGEST THE "PLAIN ORGANIC GREEN VALLEY 99% LACTOSE FREE" IT SHOULD HAVE AROUND 7-8GRAMS OF SUGAR "PER CUP SERVING" THE LACTOSE FREE IS VERY IMPORTANT. LACTOSE TURNS TO SUGAR.
IF YOU CAN'T GET THIS BRAND THEN LOOK FOR THE LOWEST SUGAR POSSIBLE & LACTOSE FREE.I WILL SAY THIS AGAIN "PLAIN"!!! YOU CAN ALSO CHECK THEIR INTESTINES. IF ITS INTESTINAL RELATED THEY USUALLY DO NOT LIKE TO BE PICKED UP-PRESSURE IN THAT AREA. THERE ARE OTHER THINGS THAT OBVIOUSLY CAN CAUSE INTESTINAL SWELLING BUT AT LEAST YOU CAN NARROW IT DOWN.

MY HEN AVOIDS WATER DURING THE DAY UNLESS SHE LAYS. THEN SHE WILL DRINK RIGHT AFTER WHERE AS MY ROOSTER IS MORE WEAK WHEN IT STARTS TO GET TO WARM.

MY HEN IS MUCH BETTER AT IT THEN MY ROOSTER.. GRUB EATING(PINCHER BUGS & BLACK BEETLES ARE A +) & GRASS EATING(NOT WET) WILL BE VERY CRUCIAL FOR THEM & MINIMAL GRAIN(ORGANIC IS BEST) NO ADDITIONAL SCRATCH FEED THE GRAIN ALREADY HAS TO MUCH DAM CORN IN IT!.
"IN THE EVENING ONLY" START WITH GIVING HIM OR HER"COLD" WATER!!. LET THEM DRINK SOME. I USUALLY ALLOW HIM TO DRINK & FILL 50%. THE COLD WATER CAUSES THERE TO BE AN EXCHANGE. COLD REDUCES SWELLING WHICH RELEASES THE FUNGUS WHICH CONTAINS BAD BACTERIA/SUGARS) BUT AS THE WATER WARMS IT WILL TRY & SUCK UP WATER AGAIN. I WAIT ABOUT 5MIN AFTER GIVING HIM COLD WATER & THEN OFFER PELLET WHICH I ADDED 1/4 TSP. OF KIEFER MIXED IN WELL!!! DON'T BLOB IT IN 1 AREA. THIS ALL DEPENDS ON SIZE OF ROOSTER/HEN. TOO MUCH GOOD BACTERIA CAUSES INTESTINAL UPSET WHICH EQUALS STRESS.
NOW YOU SEE WHY ITS BEST TO CONTACT ME IF YOU FIND THIS CONDITION. MY HEN IS BIGGER THAN MY ROOSTER SO SHE GETS 1/4(THIS HAS VARIED SLIGHTLY). MY ROOSTER IS MUCH SMALLER SO HE ONLY GETS AROUND 1/8. THERE ARE 2 REASONS FOR THIS TO BE DONE AT NIGHT. 1. THE HEN/ROOSTER ARE AT REST WHICH IS THE LEAST AMT. OF STRESS. 2. THERE IS NO HEAT. MY ROOSTER WILL DRINK,THEN EAT,THEN DRINK AGAIN UNTIL HIS CROP IS BULGING FULL TO THE VERY TOP!!!

BY DOING IT IN THIS FASHION THE KIEFER HELPS KILL OFF SOME OF THAT BAD BACTERIA BEFORE IT REACHES THE INTESTINES!!! I TRIED MORE IN THE BEGINNING & COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHY I WAS ON THIS ROLLER COASTER RIDE. IF THE KEIFER IS GIVEN WITHOUT ENOUGH WATER ITS TOO RICH. YOGURT HAS WAY TOO MUCH SUGAR & IS NOT AS GOOD AS KIEFER!!!!
MUCH MORE THAN I WANTED TO PUT HERE BUT IF YOU HAVE BEEN GOING ROUND & ROUND WITH BLUE COMB THEN THIS MAY BE YOUR PROBLEM. MY DAM AVIAN VET COULDN'T GIVE ME AN ANSWER WHEN I HAD ASKED WHY ALL OF A SUDDEN THEIR COMBS WERE GETTING BLUER & BLUER. SHE DIDN'T RELATE THE FUNGAL TO IT & ALL SHE SAID WAS"USUALLY ITS A LACK OF OXYGEN OR VIRAL!

ONE LAST THING THAT CAN TELL YOU IF ITS STRESS RELATED(INTESTINAL DISTRESS) OR VIRAL BUT DON'T LAUGH.
THIS TECHNIQUE REALLY HELPED MY HEN WHEN SHE WAS LAYING. IT WAS TAKING HER SO LONG & SHE TURNED SO BLUE BUT WHEN I START DOING THIS IT STARTED TO DISAPPEAR. WORKS WITH THE ROOSTER ALSO BUT IT HAS TO BE IN THE EVE TYPICALLY WHEN HES ON HIS ROOST.
TAKE YOUR FINGER & "GENTLY" STROKE DOWNWARD FROM BELOW THEIR EAR DOWN THE WATTLE. THE BEST WAY I CAN DESCRIBE IS AS IF YOUR ARE STROKING(CARESSING) YOUR CHILDS HAIR BEHIND THEIR EAR. MY ROOSTER LIKES IT BUT HES PICKY ABOUT HOW FAR DOWN THE WATTLE I GO. MY HEN LIKES IT BELOW THE EYE & DOWNWARD ALSO. YOU WILL KNOW WHEN YOU GET IT BECAUSE THEY WILL START TO CLOSE THEIR EYES. FOR THE HEN THIS WILL ALLOW THEIR INTESTINES TO RELAX & LET THE EGG MOVE OUTWARD. THIS ALSO WORKS WELL WITH MILD CASES OF PERITONITIS.
 
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I don't really need a warm coop at the moment. it's mid summer here and it's been 32 degrees celcius here for weeks now. We have summer rainfall so that's a bit of an issue at the moment. They are dry at night when they roost.

as for the culling, I have to agree, that was a bit harsh. I suppose for a serious farmer that kind of action is okay, and totally the right thing. for a pet who is adored, I would first exhaust all other options and if my beloved roo was suffering, only THEN would I even consider such a thing.

I can't imagine this property without that roo. he is the boss around here. without him there would be anarchy!!!!!

MADIBA

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I have no idea why I call them SHickens????? almost like the word chooks I suppose. I just always called em that.
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I am a bit of a loon, so don't mind me.....
 
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That's a little drastic since the condition can sometimes be quite temporary. My incredibly wonderful roo has had occasional purple comb (usually tip) issues through the years but is the absolute picture of good health now some 9 years after I first found him and began to care for him. He is also so very caring with any hens who have ever had the good fortune to know him.

JJ

Not one thing in the world drastic about it. If you want strong, vigorous and health fowl then CULLING is the ONLY answer. The harder you cull the better your birds are going to be: plan and simple.

If you are not interested in culling (fast and hard) then for the sake of the rest of us, Don't Breed Them. If you are keeping pets, then it is a different story entirely. I don't keep pets. I keep heritage and ancient breeds of chickens including several breeds that needed extensive work.
 
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those certainly are fine birds!

And as for the culling, I WANT to hear every-one's opinion. all the things you mentioned are very true and thoughts that I have had too. I think it all depends on what your purpose for the chickens are. We need folk like you who breed good strong healthy blood lines and in order for you to do that, you have to be strict. that I totally understand. Heck, if I were breeding like you, I too would have very strict rules about something like that. But for me, I am only keeping my chickens for pets and eggs. so in a case like that, I think it's okay to give the 'faulty' ones a chance.
I encountered the same moral dilema when it came to CRD. I was wondering if CRD birds should be culled to prevent further spread of the disease. Not only in one's own flock, but for the sake of ALL chickens out there. I'm still on the fence about that one. I'm not sure. from what I have learned, here in South Africa, you would have to go a long way to find a CRD free chicken, and from what I've learned about CRD, it's only a matter of time before any healthy birds will be infected?
I had lunch with an Egg farmer yesterday. He said he doesn't cull his CRD CHICKENS AT ALL. I was surprised to learn this because I thought that would be the first place to cull.

UPDATE ON MADIBA: Well, he's been in good health! His crowing is back to normal and he's stil terrorizing the property's inhabitants. Yesterday I noticed his comb going blue again. He was supervising one of my hen's egg laying and as he marched up and down infront of the nest, his comb got a blue tinge. In less than an hour though, the blue tinge went away?? I'm thinking it may be his heart and times when he stresses, the comb turns blue. Who knows...anyway, he's a happy bunny other wise, and so am I.
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CRD................... very low mortality rate; also, it is in most backyards in America, at least.

When culling here are the general rules I follow (as it concerns disease):

1. If it even appears to be genetic: CULL.
2. If it is a management issue: kick myself and straighten up.
3. If it is viral or bacterial: depends. I ask myself several questions:
a. Will they be carriers?
b. Does every bird on the yard already have it?
c. Will this affect fertility?
d. Can this be passed to chicks?

JJ, made some good comments. However, I have a totally different view.

Let's say you have 3 birds. All are exposed to the same disease. One dies, one gets sick and recovers, and one seems never to have been sick. Which one is the better bird? According to JJs theory it would be bird number 2. I TOTALLY DISAGREE. It is the bird that though exposed to the disease but never showed any signs of illness. THAT IS THE BIRD TO BREED: one whose immunity was strong enough to resist disease.

Now, if you are raising pets; all this doesn't matter, right? WRONG! The reason some breeds of dogs that were once the paragon of strength and health are now weak is because people stopped culling! They are just pets they said. It doesn't matter anymore. So, now the pet owners have enormous vet bills because they are raising dogs with inherited weaknesses. If the dog breeders had been MORE concerned with the BREED instead of MONEY they would have CULLED!

If you want to keep a weakling that is your business; JUST DON'T BREED THEM. Show more concern for the Breed than that!
 
most say on here it's lack of oxygen when the comb turns blue or purple What all have you been doing for him? Maybe try some electrolytes or poultry drench in his water.
 
I battled terribly to get medication for him, but in the end I found Terramycin. He has been on Terramycin since monday and seems to be doing alot better. But his comb was fine the whole day today and then about an hour ago, started turning blue on the tips. I also dusted for feather mites on Monday evening...
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