Sick chicken, cheesy poop, prolapse when pooping

Jciarmom

In the Brooder
Jul 4, 2017
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I need help! My 13 month old chicken, who I suspect does not normally lay eggs, has been sick. I noticed she was prolapsed when trying to poop a few days ago. I separated her, brought her inside and am keeping her in a dark cage. She isn't able to get much poop out (is straining, not being very successful), and when she does it was whitish/yellowish with greens. I have given her one to two Epsom salt baths per day, given her a little bit of scrambled egg to eat. This morning she seems to be breathing a bit heavy. I'll post a picture of her last night's poop if I can. Not eating much, she at least has been making those quiet cooing noises last night and this morning, but she was quieter in the beginning. Her belly is big and somewhat firm
 
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Greetings Jciarmom,

I have experience in treating hens with, both cancer/tumor or egg peritonitis.

There is hope for a remission in both conditions. But, be aware that in hens, because of their cyclical hormones, they will likely go through this again and again.

A note of caution:
Your hen's condition is a bit more complicated because of the prolapse. Also, the gurgling and coughing, are signs of respiratory collapse, maybe due to a large tumor pressing.
Worst case scenario:
She may die within the next 24 hours. If she starts to sleep, with her body going flat, wings relaxed, these are signs the body is shutting down. Have a large towel ready, in case she starts to flail. You can quickly wrap her, and hold her during the death spasms. Fluid will drain from her mouth.

Other considerations:
Eventually, a day will come, when they can no longer heal.
You may come to a point when you may need to euthanize the hen, here are some reasons to euthanize, otherwise the hen can just live out her days in your care.

For instance if the hen has any of the following symptoms:


  • labored breathing to the point where they are gasping
  • can no longer walk
  • they injure themselves (rupture of the belly, broken leg, rupture an egg internally, etc.)
But, if you are willing to do the work at it, I have a treatment plan that has been very successful.

First forget the oregano oil, it is not substantial enough to protect the hen from infection during their healing process. But is excellent for crop issues.

Here is my treatment plan:
Caring for the hen with ascites can be as much or little as your time and resources allow.

Handling the bird to medicate or feed manually - use a towel to wrap the bird, then support the feet with one hand, set the bird on your lap, with their feet between your thighs. The hen's chest and rear will rest on your thighs. Keep the hen calm be talking softly and stroking the ears or cheeks.
Handling the bird for bathing/soaking - place the bird's chest on your forearm and slide your hand under the belly for support, hold the hen close to you, as it will try to flap its wings. Or, you can tie a long scarf around the hen to hold the wings. Always support the hen's chest with your hand while bathing.

Treatments:
Epsom salt soaks, 10-15 minutes, 1 to 3 times a week will comfort and help to detox the hen. You are already doing this, great.
"The Rub - Arnica Cream" is best, but you can use other brands of Arnica cream. Apply each evening, on the belly, around vent and any bald spots, helps reduce pain, swelling and soothes.
40 mg. Aspirin, every 12 hours, to reduce ascite swelling, reduce pain or discomfort. (Use low dose 80 mg. tablets, then split with a pill splitter. Food and water should follow to buffer the intestines.) (stop if the hen has a bleeding cut) Course is 10 days.

Antibiotic, a broad-spectrum antibiotic each day should be administered. Because the hen's immune system is weak, evident by the presence of ascites, in the case of a tumor, an antibiotic will protect her from secondary infection, and in the case of EYP, it will take care of any infection that is already brewing. The course is 10 days.

Environment:

The hen may always be a little swollen with ascites, even after recovery. But, quality of life can be increased by providing accommodations.

We placed little ramps and tree stumps around the yard to make it easier for the hen to follow the flock. Exercise is important for these hens.

The hen will not be able to fly up on to the perch, so if you want her to perch with the flock, you'll have to help her up. A safety net under the perch will be needed to prevent falling off. Then, you'll have to help the hen down each morning.

Rupture of the belly is possible and is lethal. This usually happens when the hen jumps up or down from high places.

It's safer for the hen to sleep on the floor of the coop, with cover overhead so she doesn't get pooped on. A small covered dog crate is good for this. Or, lower the perches to no more than 15 inches above the floor.

Diet:

If the hen goes off feed, and has no appetite for any solid foods, you'll have to feed her with a syringe. She'll need 40-50 mL, a day, of a liquid meal replacement. I prefer to feed a Hemp Protein liquid meal, as Hemp Protein has healing qualities, as well as providing nourishment. I also incorporate Manuka Honey to boost the healing properties of the hemp meal replacement. I will send you my formula if you would like it. Kaytee baby bird meal replacement is a meal replacement you can buy at a pet shop. You can also make your own by pulverizing chicken feed in a spice/coffee mill, then sifting in a large screen strainer, then a small screen strainer. Mix with purified water, don't use well water or tap, the chickens vital organs are already stressed.

But if the hen is still eating on her own, I offer the following:
Besides feed (when ill a mash is better, dry and wet), cooked grains (brown rice, barley, oat groats), hash browns cooked in coconut oil, cooked finely diced meats, cooked frozen mixed vegetables (green beans, cut up), diced juicy fresh fruit. Offer things that will supply nutrition and that the chicken will eat. Always have fresh water available. You should administer a dose of electrolyte solution, full stength, one a day, for the first two days, if the hen is weak. Also some vitamins if the hen has not eaten much.

Prognosis:
There are different reasons why a hen's body will develop ascites. It is the body's way of ridding toxins. Why there are toxins, is usually not known, until the hen has died and a necropsy is done.

A hen can live on another year or more, or quickly die in spite of all your efforts. Cancers can go into remission. Egg Yolk Peritonitis has a small chance of healing if antibiotics are given, early. Internal laying can also have remission as the body absorbs the egg. But ultimately, a hen with reproductive issues will succumb to the condition without a radical intervention, like implants or even spaying.


I hope and pray all goes well for your hen.

If nothing else, this will be a good lesson in compassionate care, healing treatments, and the life cycles of nature.

God Bless :)



 
So I found a reasonable vet and took Luna there today. They removed 150 cc's of fluid from her abdomen, and her breathing is easier now. Vet says it's likely cancer or broken/internally laid or some other egg issue, neither has a good prognosis. When my 11 year old daughter, a cancer survivor, heard cancer as a possibility, she said through tears "you didn't give up on me when I had cancer". How could I put her down after that? So we are giving antibiotics and hoping that she will get better. If she doesn't, I'll bring her back to the vet, as I don't want her to suffer needlessly.
 
The heavy breathing is often due to a build up of fluids (ascites) or a mass in the abdominal cavity putting pressure on the lungs and air sacs. If she has ascites, then draining her may give her some short term relief but whatever is causing the ascites will most likely eventually become fatal. If you cup your hand and feel between her legs and then compare to a similar breed healthy bird you should be able to feel if she has abdominal swelling. Ascites hangs low between the legs and they often start to walk with a wide stance. Salpingitis (infected impaction of the oviduct) tends to cause a more solid swelling just below the vent. The bird will usually exhibit soiled butt feathers because poop can no longer drop free of the body due to the swelling under the vent.
 
Just saw this, so first, great informative post by @Hen Pen Jem!
I agree with the assessment on the oregano, I've used both leaf and oil, but it has never been helpful with a bird with this degree of illness. I wish you the best, but know that not every bird with this degree of illness can be saved, you can only try. I always do the best I can for them, some rally, sadly many do not. :hugs
 
I'm very sorry for your loss. :hugs
If you are up to it, and curious you can do an informal necropsy and post pictures here, and maybe get some better answers on what may have been ailing her.
I can give you links, or you can search for instructions. It's not difficult really, except maybe emotionally. If you don't think you can, I understand. You can also send birds to a lab, which is sometimes a good idea, especially when a virus is suspected.
Again, I'm really sorry.
 
How does her abdomen feel - soft, hard, squishy, fluid filled, bloated, swollen, etc.?
Is she crop emptying overnight?

The poop I see quite a bit of urates and what could be a bit of egg matter - is that what you are calling cheesy?
If she has not been laying for quite a while, then she may be laying internally or have a reproductive disorder. Salpingitis, Egg Yolk Peritonitis, cancer or tumors are common in laying hens. Any of these can cause some of the symptoms you describe.
 
I agree with @Wyorp Rock in that it sounds like a reproductive issue that will unfortunately probably not end well. The fact that such a young bird has not been laying eggs regularly but clearly has a very red comb which indicates that she is ovulating means that either those eggs are being laid internally and dropping into her abdominal cavity or have become infected in her oviduct and are causing a blockage of "lash egg" material which she is straining to pass.
Can you tell us what you feed your flock including main feed (brand) and treats? Sometimes heavier breeds like Buff Orps are prone to becoming fat if their diet is just slightly too high in carbs and that can certainly lead to prolapse and other issues like internal laying or salpingitis and ascites (water belly) as well as Fatty Liver Haemorrhagic Syndrome and many of these conditions are fatal long term. It is very difficult to know that a bird is fat or obese because of all those feathers and most people don't even consider it can be a problem. I'm not saying your bird is carrying too much fat but it is something to be aware of with heavier breeds particularly and be very disciplined about keeping treats to a minimum.
 

Yes, that is typical poop for a hen with a reproductive problem.

It will return to normal with consistent and correct care. My hens that have had ascite related illness, usually recover in about 7 to 14 days. The time for recovery depends on the severity of symptoms, the general health of the hen before illness, and the weight. Age does not seem to be a factor.

But, it is time consuming to heal them. They'll require nursing care and rehabilitation, before returning to the flock. :)
 
Greetings Jciarmom,

One last thought for today...do check the hen's crop in the morning. It should be empty. If it feels soft and doughy, it may account for the gurgling she had.

It is common for a sick chicken's crop to empty very slowly, thus, causing a souring of the contents. This can also make the hen feed sickly. The contents can be regurgitated, or watery vomit can pour out of the crop, causing coughing. A foul smell is not always an indicator of sour crop, but if your hen does have a foul smelling mouth, she may have a souring crop.

You may want to administer an anti-fungal every 12 hours, till you are sure her crop is emptying.

God Bless :)
 

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