"Winter Survival "

[U_Stormcrow]

oh, and much of the beta glucans and immune response studies are coming out of Korea and China, where most of the (loosely) weight gain/condition studies are older, and originate in the EU. Generally over the last 20-25 years or so, for both. Full text is rarely available for free, but the summaries are often decent enough to give you an idea of the general findings and the study size.

 

[Minister Marc C]

Not certain I want to be part of this "group" any longer.
All ANYONE wants to do is ARGUE like a bunch of kids.
Good luck with your flocks -- I'm outa here. Sheeeesh.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Beta Glucans and chickens (since I offered, and am not claiming any particular personal expertise) -

I quickly skimmed these:

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7267545/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9469757/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9181616/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31267769/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30995865/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20709977/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19180808/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32988533/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21076097/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32560684/

You are welcome to skim my sources. There are, of course, more like those, but they tended to say much the same things, I felt it an adequate overview - particularly as I have no specific interest in making my own feed, or offering treats to my birds beyond what they free range. Also, I only have a few days of "winter", each year.

 

[McChooky]

View attachment 2897235Will our chickens survive the winter. . .?

(Brace yourselves) --- it turns out ~ They CAN -and- They WILL !!


Despite our efforts and desire to control everything,
“chickens” are able to survive the winter months.
Truth is, chickens are VERY well equipped to keep themselves warm
(because), after all, they (are) “woodland birds”.

Chickens have downy under feathers (fluff), trapping warm air against
their body. The outer feathers keep the cold air from penetrating.
If the chickens are on a perch, they will cover their feet with the belly feathers.

Do not add heat lamps ! It’s simply not necessary.
A Chickens average body-Temp is 106 F. (41.1 C) --

What about the comb and wattles?
Won’t they be exposed and possibly have frostbite?
Not if the coop is well built, has ventilation at the top and is relatively
draft free. (The coop should not be air tight).
In fact that would definitely lead to frost bite. The coop needs ventilation
to carry the warm moist air up and out of the coop. Otherwise the moist air
will lie on the surface of the combs, leading to frost bite.
Frost bite looks like black blemishes on the chicken’s comb.

Our coop consists mainly of 2 parts:
A nesting box where they lay eggs, which sits on top of a 6 ft. long,
metal frame, wooden top folding table, with lean-to style sides on 4 sides -
a ramp going up to the top of the table, and a gap for them to access
underneath. This gives em a place to go when it rains or when its
very windy / blustery. There is a food tray in there, and a layer of wood
shavings, dried grass / hay - and places to perch.
And when it's windy, wet or blustery cold, they are in there !

If you are wondering ‘why’ you have less eggs in the fall & winter --
It's just part of their seasonal-cycle.
Chickens lay less in the fall and winter for a reason.
Starting in late summer, as the days begin to shorten,
your chickens lose feathers in the annual molting process.
If the chickens have eaten enough ‘insects’ or other protein sources,
the feathers will be almost fully regrown.

Adding extra lights and so forth disrupts their natural cycle.
Artificial lighting holds the chickens back from getting a natural break.
Your hens (may) still be recovering from the “big-molt” ~ (rebuilding the feathers).
Even though they may look smooth and glossy on the outside,
the annual molt can take a toll on the inside.
This is why egg production is still off. Left to their own time table,
and with good nutrition, your hens will gradually regain the protein
and calcium reserves that they need to produce eggs.

Unless they are ill, egg production will naturally pick up again.
You will notice this generally (after) the Winter solstice.
The amount of daylight is a determining factor, don’t misunderstand.
They take notice of everything and they (will) take notice of the natural sun light
shining. When hens will notice the gradual increase in daylight,
egg production will increase again.

Make SURE you check their “WATER”(especially) in the winter!!
Water is a necessary nutrient all year long. Check it EVERYDAY.
Especially if you live where the winter months are extra-cold,
and below freezing.

Make sure that your flock has a source of fresh water through out
the day. This can be a little challenging, especially when temperatures
drop well below freezing. There are a number of founts designed to keep
the water above freezing. Submersible water heaters,
heated bases for metal waterers and electric heated bowls are all helpful,
“if” you have electric power in the coop. (And we don’t).

We generally just keep an eye on their water.
At night they are hunkered down and asleep. Come day-break,
they get fresh water. During the winter our outside hose is in storage.
When it’s below freezing (even below zero), we tote water from the house
out to the pen /coop.

Remember: They ARE feathered, “woodland Birds” -
well equipped by a “competent designer” (GOD).
They’ve lived a long time year after year,
generation after generation - without interference (from us) -
without “us” putting “shoes” and “sweaters” on them -
without us tying little knit “hats” on their little feathery heads !
They simply DON’T REQUIRE that sort of interference from “us” !

FOOD ~ WATER ~ SHELTER. Easy peasy, 1,2,3.
Feed and water birds more often when it’s below freezing.
Energy needs increase in winter. Animals expend a considerable
amount of energy to stay warm and will eat more feed.

This is a 5 x 6 raised coop I made out of pallets for 6 chickens this spring. My hens roost 18" off the floor inside on a 2" x 6" wide roosting bar that lies face down. The roosting bar is T shaped so they don't have to roost side by side when its hot ( the same width and length as the coop)The top of their heads are below the lowest portion of the vents when they're sitting down and when they stand up the top of their heads are still below the lowest portion. Cold fresh air enters the coop in front and back and warm air and gases escape out the top taking moist air with it (which keeps feathers dry). I covered all the vents and openings with 1/2" hardware cloth instead of 1/8" because its stronger but I'm concerned it may cause a draft in windy conditions .Wondering do I need to cover the 1/2" hardware cloth with smaller mesh? If so I have some 1/4" hardware cloth left. Thanks!

 

[DillyRouen]

Well this was quite the wild ride.

Some takeaways from this...

1. He started off kind and helpful, then became the argumentative one. Blaming everyone else at the same time. I'm assuming the minister isn't used to having people question him?
2. Just because others are posting different information, and with links, doesn't mean they're arguing. This is a place for education and learning.
3. I hope he doesn't think that chicken wire is safe to use as a fencing for his birds? Chicken wire is meant to keep birds in, not predators out. I do however like his use of logs as the structure/ beams for the run though.
4. I think I'm just going to stick to using nutritionally complete feed, scratch grains, and soldier fly larvae, and some greens for my babies. But this post was an absolute wealth of information!

 

[3KillerBs]

Strange how feathers make people automatically think of warmth but rarely consider that they may help keep a creature cool.

I suspect that's why -- up to a point -- Brahmas do surprisingly well in heat.

 

[Sheri460]

View attachment 2897235Will our chickens survive the winter. . .?

(Brace yourselves) --- it turns out ~ They CAN -and- They WILL !!


Despite our efforts and desire to control everything,
“chickens” are able to survive the winter months.
Truth is, chickens are VERY well equipped to keep themselves warm
(because), after all, they (are) “woodland birds”.

Chickens have downy under feathers (fluff), trapping warm air against
their body. The outer feathers keep the cold air from penetrating.
If the chickens are on a perch, they will cover their feet with the belly feathers.

Do not add heat lamps ! It’s simply not necessary.
A Chickens average body-Temp is 106 F. (41.1 C) --

What about the comb and wattles?
Won’t they be exposed and possibly have frostbite?
Not if the coop is well built, has ventilation at the top and is relatively
draft free. (The coop should not be air tight).
In fact that would definitely lead to frost bite. The coop needs ventilation
to carry the warm moist air up and out of the coop. Otherwise the moist air
will lie on the surface of the combs, leading to frost bite.
Frost bite looks like black blemishes on the chicken’s comb.

Our coop consists mainly of 2 parts:
A nesting box where they lay eggs, which sits on top of a 6 ft. long,
metal frame, wooden top folding table, with lean-to style sides on 4 sides -
a ramp going up to the top of the table, and a gap for them to access
underneath. This gives em a place to go when it rains or when its
very windy / blustery. There is a food tray in there, and a layer of wood
shavings, dried grass / hay - and places to perch.
And when it's windy, wet or blustery cold, they are in there !

If you are wondering ‘why’ you have less eggs in the fall & winter --
It's just part of their seasonal-cycle.
Chickens lay less in the fall and winter for a reason.
Starting in late summer, as the days begin to shorten,
your chickens lose feathers in the annual molting process.
If the chickens have eaten enough ‘insects’ or other protein sources,
the feathers will be almost fully regrown.

Adding extra lights and so forth disrupts their natural cycle.
Artificial lighting holds the chickens back from getting a natural break.
Your hens (may) still be recovering from the “big-molt” ~ (rebuilding the feathers).
Even though they may look smooth and glossy on the outside,
the annual molt can take a toll on the inside.
This is why egg production is still off. Left to their own time table,
and with good nutrition, your hens will gradually regain the protein
and calcium reserves that they need to produce eggs.

Unless they are ill, egg production will naturally pick up again.
You will notice this generally (after) the Winter solstice.
The amount of daylight is a determining factor, don’t misunderstand.
They take notice of everything and they (will) take notice of the natural sun light
shining. When hens will notice the gradual increase in daylight,
egg production will increase again.

Make SURE you check their “WATER”(especially) in the winter!!
Water is a necessary nutrient all year long. Check it EVERYDAY.
Especially if you live where the winter months are extra-cold,
and below freezing.

Make sure that your flock has a source of fresh water through out
the day. This can be a little challenging, especially when temperatures
drop well below freezing. There are a number of founts designed to keep
the water above freezing. Submersible water heaters,
heated bases for metal waterers and electric heated bowls are all helpful,
“if” you have electric power in the coop. (And we don’t).

We generally just keep an eye on their water.
At night they are hunkered down and asleep. Come day-break,
they get fresh water. During the winter our outside hose is in storage.
When it’s below freezing (even below zero), we tote water from the house
out to the pen /coop.

Remember: They ARE feathered, “woodland Birds” -
well equipped by a “competent designer” (GOD).
They’ve lived a long time year after year,
generation after generation - without interference (from us) -
without “us” putting “shoes” and “sweaters” on them -
without us tying little knit “hats” on their little feathery heads !
They simply DON’T REQUIRE that sort of interference from “us” !

FOOD ~ WATER ~ SHELTER. Easy peasy, 1,2,3.
Feed and water birds more often when it’s below freezing.
Energy needs increase in winter. Animals expend a considerable
amount of energy to stay warm and will eat more feed.

This may be a silly question, but this is my first winter with my flock of 5. I do not keep water and food inside their coop, it's in their fenced in run area. We're supposed to have temps in the teens and single digits for the next couple of days, should I move some food and water into the coop? Or is it still okay for them to come out and eat and drink, and will they? So far my experience has been that they prefer to be in the run regardless of the weather, wind, cold, rain, etc. I always think they'll go hang out in the coop in bad weather, but I rarely see them do that, maybe since we have a covered portion of the run and they can get out of some of the weather. Thanks in advance!

 

[3KillerBs]

This may be a silly question, but this is my first winter with my flock of 5. I do not keep water and food inside their coop, it's in their fenced in run area. We're supposed to have temps in the teens and single digits for the next couple of days, should I move some food and water into the coop? Or is it still okay for them to come out and eat and drink, and will they? So far my experience has been that they prefer to be in the run regardless of the weather, wind, cold, rain, etc. I always think they'll go hang out in the coop in bad weather, but I rarely see them do that, maybe since we have a covered portion of the run and they can get out of some of the weather. Thanks in advance!

If the food and water are under the cover they should be fine there.

Is there a windblock for that portion of the run?

 

[Sheri460]

If the food and water are under the cover they should be fine there.

Is there a windblock for that portion of the run?

It is under the covered portion. I do have a wind block but it's in a different corner, maybe I'll move their food to that spot. I hadn't thought of that. Thank you!

 

[McChooky]

Last week it ended up snowing 8 inches and it got down to 8 degrees outside and my girls were just fine. They started to walk out of the coop in the morning when I opened the coop door (still 8 degrees) and then they saw the white ground, looked around, and walked back into the coop. It was a bit comical. They never got off the ramp. I set their food and water inside the coop for a few hours, then they decided to venture out. I put straw down on the ground under the covered portion of the run (where there was little snow) and they seemed happy as could be. But they did not go near the snowy side of the run. The second day, I cleared them a path where they could see the green grass underneath and wherever the path was, they walked, so they came out of the run and into the yard for awhile eating grass, but they didn't venture into the snow at all. It was so funny watching them walk on the path only.

It was 7 degrees a couple nights ago and been bitter cold ever since but my chickens don't seem to mind. I have noticed they're searching for the sunniest spot in the run to hang out but because they don't get wet they don't mind the cold. Even their bedding is dry but frozen