Building new coop in old cow barn

[Fillymj]

Personally, I think turning the corner and adding that 5 additional feet would definitely increase the comfort level for your initial flock and leave you a little breathing space to accommodate a few additions. The other thing I noticed and wanted to mention....in Dobielover's article she initially had her roost closer to the poop board and she said the ones on the roost gave the ones walking down the line a peck in the head. So she raised it a little (I want to say to 13?) and I remember thinking was that enough to make a diff??? But she said it solved the issue. I wanted to remember that for my own coop.
Ahhhh....coop talk.....it's so exciting!!
That handrail is FANCY....I never thought of using a handrail.

Your idea to lengthen the roost is a good one. Going to have to reread other posters designs on their roasts. Know some have 8” and no problems. Kind of worried only having 11.5 in front. Might need to length that out several inches.

Going to have the poop trays so wanting everything comfortable for me to clean.

 

[rosemarythyme]

The handrail looks like a good size and shape for chickens.

I'm not a fan of heaters but if it's for occasional use like a sudden drop to -30 degree (without windchill) for several days then I don't think that's necessarily a bad idea. The chickens would probably be fine without it, but I get that it's worrying if temps plummet and/or get to -20, -25 or more.

 

[Fillymj]

The handrail looks like a good size and shape for chickens.

I'm not a fan of heaters but if it's for occasional use like a sudden drop to -30 degree (without windchill) for several days then I don't think that's necessarily a bad idea. The chickens would probably be fine without it, but I get that it's worrying if temps plummet and/or get to -20, -25 or more.

Glad the rail looks good.

Will install heater but don’t know if I will use it. 0 and below is bitter cold though.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Will install heater but don’t know if I will use it. 0 and below is bitter cold though.

Not necessarily: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/how-cold-is-too-cold-check-this-out.1345546/ Not saying you should deliberately push the envelope, but healthy adult birds with good shelter can survive some amazing temperatures.

 

[pennyJo1960]

As long as there is ventilation there is no need for heat...
Lack of ventilation is what causes frostbite.. your very correct to use hardware cloth
over the openings Amazon also carries the hardware cloth in longer lengths

 

[Fillymj]

Not necessarily: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/how-cold-is-too-cold-check-this-out.1345546/ Not saying you should deliberately push the envelope, but healthy adult birds with good shelter can survive some amazing temperatures.

Will study this more. Don’t know what I am doing and the experienced folks here would know what is best.

 

[Fillymj]

As long as there is ventilation there is no need for heat...
Lack of ventilation is what causes frostbite.. your very correct to use hardware cloth
over the openings Amazon also carries the hardware cloth in longer lengths

Good to know. Would you go 16 or 14 gauge? Or something else?
Should have plenty of ventilation.

 

[Acre4Me]

Looks good! Ventilation is important. You have windows, but won’t always be able to use them if they provide a draft or breeze on the roosts in cold weather. Perhaps upper wall ventilation or livestock fan to pull out the air. Also can have roof vents.

we sometimes get pretty cold here. We have heat, but it doesn’t turn on unless it gets below 15F (programmable). I figure it's not really heating the coop up, it’s taking the bitter edge off. The coop is well Ventilated, so even with the heat it is only a bit warmer than outside. This year temps were mild, then dropped to -10F, quickly, so I was glad we had the heat in there since they hadn’t really gotten acclimated to winter by then. Since you have an electrician handy, add the heat, maybe a programmable Thermostat. The one I have has a plug forheat and a plug for cooling (can connect to a ventilation fan), with programmable upper and lower limits for each. These units are sold many places (got mine on Amazon) and are popular with home brewers and mushroom growers.

if they are already adding electric, add a plug for future outdoor electric fence if you think you’ll need it and a plug for water in the winter - you’ll need something to keep it from freezing. We also added an outdoor rated timer to add light in fall/winter on a schedule, but that’s personal preference.

good luck

 

[Ted Brown]

We have an abundance of everything. Coyotes, opposums, skunks, fox, raccoons, hawks,falcons, bald eagles, etc....

it’s the way mink & weasel can get through the tiniest of holes that worries me.

Rough plans are to trench down 24” by run for wire for diggers, cover entire run with wire and roof on top.

Coop windows, ceiling to wall cover edges 2’, long 8’ viewing/ventilation window wire.

Found online from fence wire.com 16 gauge, black vinyl coated, welded wire mesh 0.5 x 0.5 for $295.00 for 4’ x 100’ to me that seemed like a good price. Maybe I am wrong.

Is this strong enough to repel all of the above? Have a source for 14 gauge which will be more but if need be will get it. If I have to will electrify it.

1/2" by 1/2" HC is small enough to keep both mink and weasel out. I know that 19 gauge properly installed will repel raccoons, I have had them hanging off HC covering windows on the front of my Woods coop, bowed it out somewhat but did not break or come loose.

Of your list of critters above raccoons are the most intelligent, persistent, strong, and have claws that are human like. If you can repel them the rest of your list will also be excluded.

 

[pennyJo1960]

Okay this is 1/2 inch https://www.amazon.com/Openings-Hot...id=1580084519&sprefix=hardware,aps,273&sr=8-4