Fluffy Butt Acres: Stories of our flock

[BY Bob]

This is what I contend with, every time I leave the house:
View attachment 3547567

How do you keep those steps so clean?

 

[rural mouse]

You did a much better job trimming him. I would love to see a video of that some day.

Mr P screaming, Marty attacking, and Kelly (while holding screaming bird and clippers) "Marty calm down! You're next!"

 

[ChicoryBlue]

@Pastel The Rooster
This isn't the best of pictures, but I will try to explain this. I build it more as a breeding hut, but I am using it as my broody pen. (for purposes of this post, kindly ignore the cute chicken in teh foreground!)View attachment 3544883View attachment 3544887

So, you can't see all of this pen, but this is how it is built:

I used 2 2x4x8, both cut at 3' for the base (so, it is 5'X 3'. I then used a bunch of 2X2s, you might want to use 2x3 or 2x4 if predators are large...but I used 2x2x8 because this usually is inside my large run, and 2x2x8 are much cheaper than 2x4x8

Cut 2 more 8' long boards at 3'. This will be the top framing of the pen/broody hut. Now, you have to decide how tall you want it. Probably 2' tall is fine (mine is 30" tall...but 2' is fine, and would probably be easier to reach in from the top & is a better use of your lumber,)

Take 2 8' pieces of lumber and cut each into 4 - 22" pieces from it (if using 2' fencing, need it to overlap top and bottom boards by 1" to secure in place). Keep the 8" left-overs. Use 4 of these pieces - one for each corner. Screw to bottom frame, then place top framing on them, and screw that together. ( you now have a rectangular 'solid' that is 5' long, 3' wide' and, in actuality, just over 2' tall. Decide how much of one end you want to be a secure 'nest box area' (? maybe 2' x 3'? Place another set of your 22" pieces, one on each side, that distance from the back and screw top and bottom into place.. One of the remaining 22" pieces, place about 1' back from the front on one side (this will be the 2nd side support for a pop-door.

Take one more 8' piece of lumber, and cut 2 -3' pieces from it, and one 22" - place one 3' piece across the broody hut (i.e. from left side to right side - parallel to back bottom board) even with the 2 uprights that are about 2' along the sides. This will be the front support for the 'nest box' area floor.. Screw into place on both ends. Place the second one between the TOP side boards parallel to the back - right above the one you just screwed in place on the bottom (so, 2' in from the back)

Cut a piece of plywood that is 2' X 3', screw into the base of your broody hut in the back - this should line up with your back cross piece, your front cross piece of the nest box area, and your sides of the bottom of your broody hut. Screw this into place. Then cut some plywood that is about 18" high. One that is 3' long (the back of your nest box in your broody tractor) and 2 that are 2' long ( the two sides of your broody tractor. Screw the 3' piece to the outside of the back of your tractor, with the bottom just overlapping the bottom base support. Then screw the 2 - 2' long pieces of plywood on the INSIDES of the nest box area - 1 on each side

Now, take that last 22" piece, and put it about 1' in from one side of your new nest box area (toward whichever side you want the top to open from) and screw it at top and bottom to the front cross rails that forms your nest box area. Cut a piece of plywood that is a FULL 2' high by 2' wide, screw that to the 2' opening on the front of the nest box area - to the side support and the 22" support you just screwed in place.

Take the 2 left-over 8" pieces of board, cut each end at a 45 degree angle, and screw in place on opposite corners (i.e. left front (side) and right rear (side) at the bottom. This diagonal piece, though small, will give a bit more rigidity to your structure.)

Now, 3 more things to 'build'

Pop-door. Definitely use small lumber for this (i.e. 2x2) cut 2 pieces 11.5 inches long ( assuming you made the pop-door framing 12" wide), and cut 2 pieces @: 22" -( 2x the dimensions of the lumbar you are using + .5"). (If you are using 2x2 for this, it is actually 1.5 inches wide, then you will cut these 2 pieces 22" - (2x1.5) - .5 = 22- 3 = 19 - .5 = 18.5 " long

[side note - I am having you make the framing for the pop door 1/2 inch narrower and shorter because you need a bit of clearance for the door to open smoothly - this allows 1/4" each side, 1/4" top and bottom clearance]
screw these together. 11.5 in boards will be the top and bottom of the pop door, the 18.5 will be the uprights.

You will do the EXACT SAME THING for the pop - door to the nest box area.


Now, for the pop door to the nest box area, cut a piece of plywood that fits over the framing ( but does NOT extend beyond it)

For both pop-doors, add hinges to them.

For the pop door to the nest box, screw the hinges to the bottom of the door opening ( so pop door folds out and down for a ramp. Add whatever type of closure you want. a hook and eye, 2 metal frames a slide bar can fit into, a barrel bolt...whatever.

Now, secure fencing wire all the way around your new broody hut. Start to the side of the outside pop door, go all the way around the broody hut ( yes, even over the plywood areas - as there should be about 4-5" at the top that is open ( for ventilation) ALL THE WAY AROUND - this will make it secure. Stop when you get to the other edge of the external pop door. Cut a piece of wire to attach to the outside of the pop door, Screw hinges to side of pop door and side of framing on broody hut.

Last thing to builds is the actual top of broody hut. I suggest that the entire top opens. If you do this, cut 2 2x2x8s at 3', screw together add hinges to one of the long sides. Attach to side of broody hut Decide what you will use for roof.. (plywood with tar paper? metal roofing panels? Depending on what you will use, you may need to cut a couple more 3' long cross pieces. I also suggest cutting 8 - 8-10" long peices of wood, cut ends at 45 degree angles, and screw them into each corner of roof that opens, to keep roof square (4 of the pieces). You can also screw the remaining 4 to the top corners of the broody hut itself, to keep it square, and to also keep the roof from falling in if it warps a bit.

So, trying to describe all this - it makes it sound like a lot of work. however, IF you have the wood, it really isn't too bad - I made one!.

These last things are completely optional - but I SO love them, that if you can do this, it will make moving it a breeze.

1) Attach 2 old/repurposed lawn mower wheels to the back. They should extend a few inches below the bottom framing of the broody hut.

2) Attach 2 eye bolts on either side of the front bottom framing of the broody coop. (eye BOLTS, not eye screws - eye screws will pull out.)

3) If you have them, attach some old skis to the bottom of the broody coop upturned points extending beyond the front of the broody coop

This will give your Willow a 2X3 'nesting' area to sit on the eggs and to then raise the kids that is completely secure and draft free at chick level, but also provides ventilation. (note, you will still need to park it in the shade in hot weather). Drop the pop door to the nest box area, and they all also have the remaining 3x3 space to run around on the ground, and it is enough space to put their food and water. When the 'littles' are big enough to explore outside the safe broody hut, you can open the outside pop door...then lock them into the broody hut if you can't be watching them...and lock all inside the nest area for night time so they are completely safe.

Note that with this set-up, the roof area over the nest box part MUST be water-proof. The roof over the remaining part of the broody hut can be either more fencing, or solid roof to protect from rain.


Okay - again - it isn't as bad as all the explaining makes it seem. It is moveable, and provides enough space for a momma and her babies, and the open sides (fencing) of the 'run' part of the broody hut will allow a see-no-touch so your babies get introduced to the rest of the flock in a safe way.

Added bonus: it also makes a great isolation hut or injured & recuperating housing in a pinch! At 15 sq. feet, it is enough for short term for 1 adult bird (or two if they are injured and not running around - but only short term!)

Sorry I don't have better pictures. I'll try for some tomorrow - but it is supposed to be torrential down pour. (Thanks RC. I thought we had already gotten our weekly allotment -1.25",,,you didn't need to send your storm on up to us - though the ducks will be happy!)

Bookmarked, thanks, BG!

 

[Ponypoor]

You did a much better job trimming him. I would love to see a video of that some day.

I will do this next time I trim him. He screams like he is being murdered

 

[Ponypoor]

Mr P screaming, Marty attacking, and Kelly (while holding screaming bird and clippers) "Marty calm down! You're next!"

You know that Marty has been hunting the chicks and pecking them since they started running with the flock.

But the other day when I was trimming Martina and she was screaming like her Dada, well Marty was coming at me trying to attack me!

She is a bossy beast with the others, but heaven help me when I am making them scream blue murder! She is ready to attack me to help them

 

[BY Bob]

Here is Willow's brood house. It still needs a door, and some bedding, but other than that it is all done.
It is a old kitchen cabinet, with plenty of nesting space. It has a metal roof so that water does not seep into the nesting space.
The run is looped over the top, so that no one can fly out. The wire is attached to a piece of wood that is buried.
The wire is secured to the coop by zip-ties.
There will be straw or shaving in the nest box.
There will be access to food and water at all times, and once the chicks are a few weeks old, they will be let out to mingle with the others.
This whole structure, hoop run and all, is inside of the chickens run.
The door frame is a strong but bendy tree branch. The bottom of it is dug into the ground, and the tip is curved to match with the hoop run.
The door frame is secured with zip ties.
The actual door will be made out of wire and will have some sort of lock system.
Hopefully it will be done tomorrow so that Willow can go in there.
View attachment 3547634

I side hope she takes too it!

 

[rural mouse]

Monday mugs...guess who....

Of course the littles! (They put themselves in these places; I removed them sometimes)

Tuff (hopped up in the coop, stayed put while I walked outside: this keeps up, may need to consider rename of Jack or Sparrow or Mr(s) Cotton)

Enigma

Zulu, Shan, and Enigma's profile

Zulu and Tuff

Chia

Bit of a curious one isn't she (assuming at the moment)

"Mama" is warm...Chia, Enigma, and Shan

Havoc is my sun worshipper, so less inclined to pose.

 

[BY Bob]

UNH Extension service advise on Bumblefoot

Youtube video of non surgical bumblefoot treatment

Please do start treating right away! The longer it goes untreated, the worse it gets and the less likely you are to cure it.

The UNM bulletin mentions treating with anti-biotics, but I am not sure about that. I know that there are resistant Staph bacteria - maybe @BY Bob would know IF you should, and with what if it is a 'yes'

If you are not going to remove the core and pack it with antibiotic ointment you could try an oral antibiotic. It is an infection and if you don't help, it could kill the chicken. @Kris5902 had a rooster with a terrible bumblefoot infection that I worried has turned anaerobic. Do not shy away from surgery if it is getting worse. Sometimes i think they actually need the help that surgical removal provides.

If you want antibiotic treatment advice feel free to PM me @Pastel The Rooster

 

[BY Bob]

Sad news:
Today being Fathers day, I was cooking baking bread and the kids were up at our pond with their dad catching and releasing fish. Usually we go out to check on the chickens several times a day but today I only got a chance to go out once to collect eggs, change the wee ones water and we brought them a cool treat. All looked fine till I went to count, all the bigs accounted for. One of the littles was missing. I found a trail of feathers into the corner we had reinforced against the gd rats . Brownie has a minor eye injury I will address in the morning, I assume she got it trying save Fable.

Idk when this happened which is driving me crazy. All the babies still sleep in the tote. I went out tonight well after dark and stuck them all up on the roosts. They were quite unhappy with me but I feel like they may be safer up there then on the ground. I really hope they stay up there and don’t jump down.

I am really at a loss, and I am heartbroken and angry all at the same time. I think I am going have use poison. I made it much much much harder for them to eat the chicken feed so now they are going after my chickens instead.

Oh no! How terrible! I'm so very sorry.

 

[Ponypoor]

Hello! Back again after a bit of vacation. The neighbor took care of the chickens and I came home to healthy happy chooks. Except Eenie seems to be going broody! Not sure what to do about it since this is my first time. The neighbor was diligent in picking up eggs so she has nothing to hatch. I wouldn't mind her hatching a few, but all 3 girls share one box. They won't touch the other 2 boxes. I have one girl laying brown eggs and thought maybe I can gather just the others and leave the brown for her to hatch. Could that work? It's that or try to break the broodiness I guess. But how can I get the other girls to use those other boxes?

You can try moving her to another more quiet safe area, I have a couple nest boxes for this, and also a huge animal crate. I would move her with a couple of ‘sacrifice’ eggs to see if she will sit on them, then if she does, swap them out for the ones you want to hatch.

If she won’t move then block that box so the others don’t bother her.

Don’t forget to put a mark on the eggs just in case the others gift her some other eggs! Not a problem if you block off the nest access to others. Also make sure to put the eggs in all on the same day so they all hatch the same day.

Good luck!