Fluffy Butt Acres: Stories of our flock

[ChicoryBlue]

Sometimes birds eat feathers just because I'm not saying they don't need more protein but there's more than one reason for feather eating: boredom, curiosity, stress, illness... Some birds, like grebes, eat feathers to help with digestion. When my girls were young I caught them eating feathers a few times but they were otherwise healthy and growing normally. I wonder if they were using the feathers as grit, because at that time I don't think we were providing them with any.

Thank you for this. It is interesting about feathers and digestion, too, thanks!

I try to mix feed together (chickens, dog, cat...) when changing things just to give them time to get used to it before the old is entirely gone.

I also leave the heat until they're no longer using it, then leave it another week. I don't know how they feel, so am trusting each one to take care of that themselves.

Yep, I am mixing too, and making the heat pad take up less space, as last night I thought they couldn't get away from it enough.

- 20% is a good level of protein. I think some would say above 24% is probably a bit high, although others say 'too much' protein is more a 30% sort of thing. There seems to be consensus that 20% is great. I feed 20% protein but of course the Princesses supplement with bugs and I give them scraps which are often lower protein. So mine get +/- 20%.
- You really don't need medicated feed. Again, views differ, but many would say you don't need it ever and just treat if they get a problem. Others say give very young chicks medicated when they first encounter the great outdoors. Anyway, by now, yours really don't need medicated feed and as medicated feed works by blocking one of the B vitamins, you may even be better off without medicated so they don't get any deficiencies.
As I said, not an expert, but my 2cents worth.
I feed Kalmbach 20% non-medicated - the feather one when everyone is laying as it has extra calcium, and the flock one during winter when they stop.

If I mix the gamebird 24% and regular chick starter/grower (non-medicated) 18%, then I should get 21%.
I have changed my mind and will likely try non-medicated for chicks next time. I've solved the water issues that were giving the vet ideas about coccidiosis as Annie's ailment (the fecal floats by me were negative, and ultimately so was the vet's test). I agree it could cause unintentional nutritive problems, though it's supposed to be just mildly inhibiting for thiamine. Maybe in certain individuals it isn't minor. These general things like "it's fine to give medicated feed" don't account for outliers in nutrition needs. Isabel's weird seemingly neurological situation is swaying me on this, it can't be helped with inhibiting some thiamine. Maybe she needs more, who knows?

View attachment 4178128

This picture is pretty amazing, it has such a 3-D look!

I know that Chick-Fil-A has a gaping hole in his head, and it’s hard to look at him sometimes. But love is love, and he needs all the love he can get. His little life hasn’t started out so well. But now he’s coming around a bit. He’s trusting me enough to eat from my hand.

Firefly Update

https://www.yahoo.com/news/more-fir...Hac42UCpaZyT3D6uy6zZAF8XYQbGVVFg59Is4WaUHG-Hu


Tax
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They will actively seek the cat out now if the other big ones are around. It's like they know Lady Featherington doesn't care for the cat and won't come near it by choice.

This behaviour is very cool. The picture took me aback, frankly. It didn’t look real, Èowyn is huge! It appears as if the Phyllistines are in front of a photo studio backdrop picture!
Caption: “Livestock Guard Cat (these are not bantam chickens)”

 

[TX Chick Noob]

Firefly Update

https://www.yahoo.com/news/more-fir...Hac42UCpaZyT3D6uy6zZAF8XYQbGVVFg59Is4WaUHG-Hu


Tax
View attachment 4178201

That photo is AMAZING. I love it, and I agree please submit it for POW.

And just in case, because I haven’t read everything after that post yet, SHRA tax.

Can’t remember if I posted this yet. Sometimes the lavenders are a little TOO friendly.

I wonder if they are hopping on me the same way they would hop on Coco, the hen who brooded them?

 

[ChicoryBlue]

I feel like they are a little overdue to switch off of medicated feed. I would not worry about it.

Yes, they would be, and I've kept in mind your mention of this before, trying to think it through. By my (possibly screwy) thinking they weren't exactly overdue because real exposure itself to the wild was delayed, though they did have some outside dirt with them in the brooder relatively early on (other contributing factors: Hazel sick, Isabel's fainting spells).

Is it chick age conferring resilience by certain weeks of age, or length of exposure to the local coccidiosis strains (I had read two weeks) conferring a level of immunity gained, that is the guideline here? It's not clear to me.
But as RC mentioned, there is the school of thought which throws all that out and says do without and treat if they get sick.
@RoyalChick @rural mouse @TOMTE @bgmathteach

 

[featherhead007]

I just love to sit in the air conditioning with my cock. Only problem, is my cock is really loud, when he crows in the house!
I don’t mind really except for when he is close to my ear.

My cock:

 

[ChicoryBlue]

I think you are absolutely fine to take them off of medicated feed at this point. There are so many opinions when it comes to feed that it’s difficult to know what is the ultimate best thing and frankly I am unsure it exists. I think watching and adapting to the needs of the flock as they mature and then age is probably the best we can do and you’re doing exactly that!

Instead of advice I will share what I do as others have and you can do what feels best for your feathered Dino’s.
I keep corid on hand, I don’t do medicated feed at all. Brooder raised chicks get chick starter usually Kalmbach 18% starter grower. Broody raised chicks get the Kalmbach all flock 20% the same as I use with everyone else. This is my preference idk if calcium is truly harmful to roosters the evidence is thin but I figure I have the all flock option available so that’s what I do.

I have raised feather heavy birds like the E Orps on the 20% and they did very well on it. I had no issues at all.

I have read a few threads that seem to indicate some of the older breeds like SFH and other heritage breeds like your beautiful Buckeyes can benefit from a bit more protein then the 16% typically considered to be sufficient. That said this is more experience based knowledge than scientific paper knowledge. I do think you’re completely safe at 24% I would be hesitant to go beyond that though personally.


We have so many this year, it’s like nature’s light show out there at night.

Thank you for this! I have Corid powder on hand, and am thinking I'll try non-medicated in the future.
Well at least they've been getting 18% and will be getting a little more now.
The big girls are getting Kalmbach 20% Full Plume Feather Feed, a layer feed. Somehow, oyster shell and egg shells on the side wasn't enough. I see Hazel (Buckeye) and Diane (Buff Orp, not "heritage" type) both regularly eating both even now. I had so many issues with thin shells with Hazel and the other Buckeyes; I was constantly popping calcium citrate into them and then calcium citrate powder in yogurt. Nutrena Feather Fixer and this feed from Kalmbach (which I can get very fresh from the local True Value store) solve it.

 

[ChicoryBlue]

My 2 cents: I think what the Feed store person was referring to: I have read that the hybrids/high egg layer breeds have been bred for a better conversion rate, so do not need as high of a protein level. However, the heritage breeds (i.e. un 'enhanced') need the higher protein levels. ( such as 'red star' versus 'barred rock/buff orpingtons). Note that many of the so-called 'heritage breeds' are somewhat enhanced in their breeding, but not to the extreme that say, Leghorns or the hybrids. (There is definite data on conversion rates - i.e. how many lbs of feed needed for 1lb. of bird weight - and breeds such as leghorns and cornishX have a much higher efficiency rate than, say, TRUE heritage BR or Orpingtons). I create my own 'all flock' because I can't get any organic locally. I use a 16% soy free layer, 17% poultry grower, and 21% turkey grower and mix to get about a 19% proteen level. (I don't just use the turkey grower and soy free layer as the turkey grower had a different % of the essential proteins than chicken feed......)

So, in a nutshell, my 2 cents is that I think many non-production breeds need a higher protein level. I also supplement during high protien need times (spring 'flush' & molt time). I also mix my own scratch and the ratios of that mix vary by season as well. More BSFL/mealworms & more nuts (mostly walnuts - yes, I know, expensive!) during those times.

All that said - I have absolutely no relevant studies to prove this need.

Edit to add: I can't find what I read previously (10+ years ago?, but this is what I came across when looking for that

Hmmm, I didn't know velociraptors dust bathed as well. Clearly this was the 'shake-off point

Great catch being able to get a photo of that!

Thanks, BG! My ideas about Buckeyes protein comes from the Livestock Conservancy I think.

I agree...that's interesting about "conversion rates". Aren't they trying to find the least amount of feed one can give them and still "get" whatever the aim is, eggs or meat? So we're left to figure out how to optimize for what we think is going to be their "best selves"...

There's the high-production breeds versus the true old-line Heritage breeds...and then our hybrid breeder "improvements" and hatchery lines. Who knows what's in the mix there? Telling and ironic, though understandable, is that the Livestock Conservancy writes that the Buckeye was undergoing "improvements" in the 1970's (I think) to make it more popular, and they lauded this in the effort to preserve the breed.

 

[featherhead007]

I had Elsa in the house for company last night. This morning, she’s finishing the ear of corn that she started last night:

 

[BY Bob]

This behaviour is very cool. The picture took me aback, frankly. It didn’t look real, Èowyn is huge! It appears as if the Phyllistines are in front of a photo studio backdrop picture!
Caption: “Livestock Guard Cat (these are not bantam chickens)”

You will note that at times they want the cat to move and encourage her to do so. But overall, they have become good companions.

 

[TX Chick Noob]

Happy Caturday! I finally got a picture of Orange Kitten. Such a sweet kitty.
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Such an adorable kitty! Lovely diluted orange color.

Am I seeing things or does Cardhu's blue chick have the beginnings of a crest?View attachment 4178050

What a cute little crest!

Brooder raised chicks get chick starter usually Kalmbach 18% starter grower. Broody raised chicks get the Kalmbach all flock 20% the same as I use with everyone else. This is my preference idk if calcium is truly harmful to roosters the evidence is thin but I figure I have the all flock option available so that’s what I do.

OMG, this made me suddenly realize something. I have two roosters now! Do I need to switch to a lower calcium feed when they are all grown? Right now, because of the different age chicks mixed in with the adults, I have been feeding a mix of:

Nutrena non-medicated chick feed (18% protein, Calcium minimum 0.80%, maximum 1.30%) and

Nutrena Feather Fixer (used to be . 18% protein, now 20%, Calcium minimum 3.25%, maximum 3.75%)

I have always fed at least 18% protein in any feed I have used, I never liked the 16% feeds. And I always keep oyster shell calcium and occasional egg shells available. Have a few hens who still lay the ossacional thin shell, but not many.

My primary feeds used to be either:
Nutrena Hearty Hen (18% protein, Calcium minimum 3.7%, maximum 4.7%), or
the Feather Fixer (used to be . 18% protein, now 20%, Calcium minimum 3.25%, maximum 3.75%).

Which one I used depended on which one was the freshest when I would pick it up at Tractor Supply or the local feed store. I have several hens who seem to have molting issues or are being picked on because they always have areas of thin/missing feathers).

When I am ready to stop mixing in the chick starter (about 6 more weeks because of the lavenders), should I go to Nutrena All Flock instead (20% protein, Calcium minimum 1.4%, maximum 1.9%)??? I like the higher protein, but worry about more thin eggshells. But also don’t want my two Roos to have issues from the calcium in the other feeds.

Side note, I tried the following food for the bantams when they were smaller:
Nutrena Silkie & Ornamental Chick Starter Grower 24% Micro Clean Crumb (24% protein, Calcium minimum .75%, maximum 1.25%)
But even though the little micro pellets were supposed to be made for bantams with smaller beaks, I found my smallest ones seemed to have trouble and were not eating it. Which was too bad, it was such a nice clean feed with no “dust”. They make a layer version (22% protein, Calcium minimum 2.6%, maximum 3.6%), but I have never seen it locally. Which is too bad, looks like a great feed for any size hen, with those nice clean pellets.

 

[drstratton]

Thank you so much! This is truly appreciated

You're welcome!