Fluffy Butt Acres: Stories of our flock

[bgmathteach]

Haven't gotten those yet anyway. I have to double check my hardware cloth, but I might have enough on hand if I 'seam' it, but won't do that until after I get the window built. How far apart should the scews/washers be?

Depends on hardware cloth. Is it 1/2 " x 1/2" 19 guage? If so, I tend to put them about 8-10 " apart - but allow for ones right on the corner...and adjust based on that. Larger (i.e. heavier - but smaller #, say 16 gauge, or 14 gauge)gauge can be slightly further apart. I do tend to be conservative...my brother-in-law watched me working one time when he happened to stop by on his way to somewhere else and said 'you are putting those too close - space them out more'. LOL fine - you build it for me, then! (he is a carpenter - but lives quite a ways away...no way he is going to build me anything!)

Example: If your door is 30" wide, put one at each corner ( about 1" in from edge), then I would evenly space 2 more..so they will end up being roughly 9" apart.
For the pop door, it is smaller . but for the side (top to bottom), I would use at least 3 screws. one top left, one bottom left, one centered between. Ditto for the other side. If your door is bigger than what I am thinking - you can do more - but 3 would be the fewest # of screws I would use for affixing the plywood to the frame for that.

Note: It will also depend on just how tight you are able to pull the hardware cloth. I tend to use a heavier gauge, and am doing it all by myself, so sometimes have trouble pulling the 'waves' out of the wire from it being rolled (i.e. getting it to lay perfectly flat) - especially near the end of the roll/center, where it was rolled more tightly. I end up having to place the screws closer together then to keep the wire flat against the wood. (I would so love a fence puller and a good workbench to work on to pull things tight!!!!!)

 

[bgmathteach]

No it’s totally a she. Named Ozzy. Deal with it.

Oh, no, Ozzy is fine for whatever - I thought you said 'he' and I was thinking - hmmm, looks pullet like to me"

 

[featherhead007]

I put 3-5 coats (depending on if you brush or spray. Brushing is cheaper (spray cost lots more$), and thicker. ) It depends on temps and humidity, but 24 (?+ if humid or cooler) hours between coats. Less time after first coat as that gets absorbed quickly. I would, as a precaution, do a 4th brush coat on the edges of the plywood, as that is so thin that it is hard to get a good 'bead' on without making drips - and you definitely want that protected so the plywood doesn't start to warp and peel apart (layers wise).

As far as how often...as long as it isn't touching the ground directly (which your door shouldn't be), then once every 4-5 or so years (or longer - I have a mobile broody hut that needs it now - and is ...hmmm... 7 or 8 years old, maybe 9??? Probably should have done it last year...but life give you some curve balls!) - with a bit of light sanding prior for good adhesion. This is, of course, assuming good coverage in the first place. I would check it next spring to be sure there aren't any 'weak spots' and do a touch up. if it looks good - you should be fine - barring any smashing it and exposing a spot of wood - in which case, a quick touch up is in order - for a number of years.

As far as cutting, assembling, THEN spar urethaneing......I would put one full coat on everything THEN assemble, so all the cut edges of the wood are treated, then do additional coats...these additional coats can seal the 'gap' between the plywood and 2X2s, too, eliminating the issue around mites (I will intentionally do a 'heavy brush' along the adjoining edge to create a 'bead' of urethane, if you will, on the last coat. It helps to seal out moisture that may get in, and to seal out mites. Mice can still get in if they chew....but given your construction, it shouldn't be an issue with a 1.5" overlap of plywood over 2X2s. Given your extreme cold, I would do plywood on both sides of the door for insulation.

If you are able to find an old storm window...I would be inclined to use that in the door. This would allow for light but no wind in middle temps or in 'it is freezing, we really, really want to stay in the coop today, mom' open 'shutters' but closed window; or open shutters and open window in summer. Or overnight in cold, windy winter, closed window, closed shutters for better insulation/protecting from wind/cold.

All my 2 cents. I am kind of self taught/learned from mistakes. Doesn't mean my strategy is best...or works for every situation....

I definitely agree with @ChicoryBlue regarding corner bracing (or diagonal bracing) of the door. It will work fine for a bit, but eventually will sag and not close properly without some sort of bracing - even with solid plywood overlay. Given the pop door - you could do 1 of 3 things:
1) Corner bracing as @ChicoryBlue mentions, and move the pop door to the middle bottom of the people door. It could then hinge up (if not enough space for it to hinge sideways without issues) and use an eye hook with a spring so it doesn't get knocked down if someone decides to roos on it.

2) Corner bracing, but forgo the bracing in that one lower corner so the pop door 'fits'. Personally, if you go with this option, I would use the left frame-out (when viewing your sketch) as a full upright bottom to middle of people door, with cross-frame at top where pop door 'ends' (this means you would have 3 full uprights on the bottom half of door - far left, far right, and left of pop door)

3) Use a diagonal bracing for the bottom half of door. - again, ging by your sketch....lower left to upper right, that should allow enough space for pop-door on lower right. I know you aren't fond of angle cuts...but doing this with the TOP bracing for the pop door extending all the way over to the diagonal (which means a diagonal cut on one end of that frame-out), then the left upright frame-out of pop door would go bottom of door to that just mentioned piece that would make the top of the pop door frame-out.

Just an FYI: When I first started doing bracing, I didn't have a good saw for cutting 45 degree angles. I used some scrap 2X4 (from a pallet) and cut (after measuring) a roughly 45 degree corner off the end - either end. IT didn't have to be perfect, as the precut top and side of the 2X4 formed the perfect 45 degree angle...my cut just made it a short piece. This can then be screwed right into the corner of your doors as is, with no muss, as it will be perfect! Down side is you only get 2 of those per board (1 each end), but if you have a free pallet - who cares! The rest of the wood can be used for a slightly raised garden bed or something where if you cut to square off the end and it doesn't come out perfect - it doesn't really matter. Also great for using as roosts - again, if the end isn't perfectly square - the chickens don't care!!!

Just note - if you do this, there isn't a huge amount of wood - I would pre-drill the holes with a bit a little smaller than the screw shaft so you don't split the corner piece. Even though these corner braces are quite small - I have found they do make a huge difference in sturdiness of the door long term, and are a relatively easy solution for no way to cut diagonal pieces at 45 degrees accurately.

I hope all this makes sense without drawings to accompany.....

 

[Sylvester017]

Speaking of hatcheries and what is this…my Tuesday pic: View attachment 4180312
So confused…straight comb, gray-ish not yellow legs, supposed to be a brown layer from Cackle. I received four, although some are more black and less gold. At first I thought Black Laced Red Wyandotte Pullets, but then I was like, no. Comb and leg color are wrong. Maybe Gold Laced Orpingtons? I could post in the what breed is this but figured I’d just ask you all first. I can post additional pics if it helps.

A mix w/ EE in her? A good puzzle for @rural mouse ?

 

[featherhead007]

I’m opening up my church in the morning, because a painter will be prepping and painting our kitchen . It has needed it for years. I asked if he did artworks aka chicken portraits. Nope he’s not that kind of painter. Oh well, never hurts to ask.

 

[Sylvester017]

I'll have to look that up. One of the best trees we have for honey are our black locust.
We put a frame in without foundation, in the hopes that they will fill it with honey and we can enjoy it with the wax. Saw some nectar in it today during our inspection!
View attachment 4180408

Tax, but not least!
A cuddle puddle with a splash...lol
View attachment 4180409

Sapote tree ~ my folks had the green skin white flesh very sweet fruit. Beautiful tall full tree too.

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White/Sue Belle​

Native to Eastern Mexico and Central America, this evergreen tree’s fruit has a reputation for causing drowsiness. Trowing well throughout Southern California, the White Sapote’s fruit ripens 6 to 9 months after its first blooms. The custard-like flesh has a flavor similar to that of a banana.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_sapote

 

[Sylvester017]

Baby chick ASMR

So-o-o-o-o CUTE

 

[drstratton]

Sapote tree ~ my folks had the green skin white flesh very sweet fruit. Beautiful tall full tree too.

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White/Sue Belle​

Native to Eastern Mexico and Central America, this evergreen tree’s fruit has a reputation for causing drowsiness. Trowing well throughout Southern California, the White Sapote’s fruit ripens 6 to 9 months after its first blooms. The custard-like flesh has a flavor similar to that of a banana.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_sapote

Thank you so much for sharing this.
Sadly this will not grow in our zone, it gets too cold here. It sounds delicious and I hope to try it sometime.

Tax - bedtime

 

[Sylvester017]

Haha, this one got a lot of wow reactions.

For context, I passed out at my desk in Houston Texas after recess waaaaay back in third grade from heat exhaustion. Woke up in the nurse's office covered in wet towels and ice packs. No a/c in schools back in the day. (1962-3)

I've never been able to tolerate heat, especially humid heat, which is why I live in the mountains now. I have no shame in announcing that I'm a weenie!

TeeHee! Good ole days in a farm community school & what was A/C in those days?! My 1st grade was in the late 1940's where the individual school desks were square-ish prisons & ink wells were still inbedded

 

[Marie2020]

Sapote tree ~ my folks had the green skin white flesh very sweet fruit. Beautiful tall full tree too.

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White/Sue Belle​

Native to Eastern Mexico and Central America, this evergreen tree’s fruit has a reputation for causing drowsiness. Trowing well throughout Southern California, the White Sapote’s fruit ripens 6 to 9 months after its first blooms. The custard-like flesh has a flavor similar to that of a banana.

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_sapote

They sound delicious. We don't get that kind of fruits in UK