@Shadrach:

This:
I can't remember but does their nest box jut out like the Cluckle Hut? I did that for space considerations. I was able to do nests without taking away floor space. I did not need any headroom for laying eggs and so the roof is low enough that Mrs BY Bob can open it and get the get the eggs. It's much easier to do a flip roof than a drop wall. The nest box on the big coop is essentially an extension with a lid. So that's why.
and:
I use sheet plywood for floors/walls roof. It allows for more space WITHOUT having a plywood seam on the floor. My coops are all 4' wide because of this.

Also, it allows me to easily raise the nest boxes up some ( width of 2x4 on edge + plus a 1x4 front to nest box) from coop floor level so they don't kick bedding material into clean nests...but still easily keep them below roost level so they don't roost/sleep in them...again, without losing floor space.

Most of my permanent coops have a footprint of 4x8.......but the coop proper is generally 4x4 & raised at 2.5 - 3 ft. (both depending on coop) with the full 32 sq. feet under able to be super protected/wrapped in winter. Makes clean-out and reaching chickens in coop easier, less total space for chickens to heat in winter.

Square footage for coop space is small by BYC standards (only 1.5-2 sq. feet per bird), but they have well over the 10 sq. feet of run space per bird when not free ranging..and they are only in coop proper for sleeping/laying...with plenty of additional really protected space in winter to hang out in & be in sun.

Pics of my first coop. (sorry, needs repainting:oops:)
I unapologetically love this general design and am working on my 3rd of this style. (with minor tweaks, such as not quite as steep a roof, and more ventilation - the 2 non-painted boards are temporarily covering ventialtion ports as the hardware cloth needs to be replaced. )
 

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