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Wait until she takes Aurora's advice goes up there and tosses them off. Then the fun will really begin!Third night on the same rafters inside the coop part of the Chicken Palace. Also they went straight there rather than spending 15 mins surveying options.
Hopefully they have settled on that being home for now.
Bernadette definitely considered trying to join them, or maybe she was thinking of going up there to throw them off their rafter, but she thought better of it in the end.
Yes, thought of that and have been keeping it for later consideration after seeing how it all works. The downside is it means making the end that holds the weight effectively thinner.Very clever!
Did you consider cutting a slot in the end of the board and fitting the crossbar of the wire frame in that slot? I did that with the roost in my dog crate so it would be stabile but removable.
Look at that shimmer!They sure are
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I really don't think weight is your issue at all.Yes, thought of that and have been keeping it for later consideration after seeing how it all works. The downside is it means making the end that holds the weight effectively thinner.
No, I said the SMALLER welded wire. I was under the impression that you were going to wrap the 1/2 x 1/2 welded wire over that area for safety. I thought getting the carabiner through both the run framing AND the additional welded wire would be the sturdiest/safest. If you are okay with it being attached to just the run framing welded wire, that is fine.Not sure about your first sentence, because I am able to get the carabiner through the welded wire fence now...Do you mean since I am able?
Yes, the S style carabiner. I believe it will actually work easier - one end clipped to the eye bolt, the other to the fencing/welded wire. It will be easier to attach/detach and still have a fairly tight tolerance - tighter tolerance than a standard carabiner.The link didn't work directly but copied goes to stainless steel S-Biner style carabiners, that's what you're talking about? I have never used them.
I think that there will be enough flex built into that set-up that it won't be an issue, unlike the ridged door. Enough flex to hook/unhook, without so much flex that the 2x2 cross-bars will pull out of the wire mesh of the run.I'm not sure how twisted or flexed it is right now compared to how it might be later on. In other words, what standard am I constructing to right now?
No, I said the SMALLER welded wire. I was under the impression that you were going to wrap the 1/2 x 1/2 welded wire over that area for safety. I thought getting the carabiner through both the run framing AND the additional welded wire would be the sturdiest/safest. If you are okay with it being attached to just the run framing welded wire, that is fine.
Yes, the S style carabiner. I believe it will actually work easier - one end clipped to the eye bolt, the other to the fencing/welded wire. It will be easier to attach/detach and still have a fairly tight tolerance - tighter tolerance than a standard carabiner.
I think that there will be enough flex built into that set-up that it won't be an issue, unlike the ridged door. Enough flex to hook/unhook, without so much flex that the 2x2 cross-bars will pull out of the wire mesh of the run.
That said, it was just a thought - try out what you have a see if it works or if it has too much flex and the 2x2 slats move too much. If not, go with that!