Ok guys I need some maths checked.

Went out to let the chooks out this morning and found babies roaming the yard.....did I not get something latched securely? How did you guys get out? Everything closed and latched....bottom of people door has been trying to fall apart. Babies figured out how to get out through it.

Came home from work with a tape measure. Will be picking up 2 x 2s and OSB tomorrow.

Here's the sketch
View attachment 4179931I'm looking at door frame, clad in osb (and sealed with something weather proof that won't harm the birds, suggestions on that would be appreciated). Adding a bird door in the door, lower right. Turning the upper half into a window (inside covered with hardware cloth, what size washers and screws to hold it securely). The window has a door that closes into it for winter protection.

I'm calculating 36 feet 8 inches of 2 x2 for all the framing. 7/16 inch OSB for the cladding. At 96 x 48 inches, will 1 sheet be enough to clad both sides of the door?

Planning on filling spaces with foam insulation. Long term thought: when can replace the coop with some sort of shed (double doors for cleaning), can move this one to it for daily access.

Edit: measures based upon 1/4 inch gap on each side of doors for movement and 1.5 inch width on the 2 x 2s. Also, what size screws to fasten 2x2s and what size for the OSB? And getting 36 feet 8 inches for total 2x2 length

@BY Bob @bgmathteach @RoyalChick @Ponypoor
If I am reading your sketch correctly, yes.

So, bottom of door only - both sides clad . 29" by 29" (all the way to the outside edge of 2x2s.)

If you are having any cladding on the top (i.e. window is't full upper half of door), then I am missing something and need more info.

So, allowing for a bit of loss when cutting....30" x30" times 2 gives you 60" by 30", with some left over (18" top & side of osb). Just food for thought - 18" would make a nice deep broody nest........... :D

What I use and LOVE for things exposed to the elements: Spar urethane (I use the oil based - lasts longer than the water based). It is non-toxic when dry - but I wouldn't put it on until dry due to the fumes. Use multiple coats - can't 'over protect'!
 
- I have several windows that are hardware cloth covered - I use fender washers - I think they are 3/4" but I can check in the morning.
I use AJC fender washers - these specific ones have a center hole small enough to catch deck screws, but big enough to hold hardware cloth well. (the carton will say "AJC' or "ALB', etc. note sure of the exact dimensions, but I would guess they are 1" wide/diameter.
 
My uncle put a hive under my folks' Sapote tree ~ an already super sweet custardy fruit. Beautiful honey... & my folks chewed the honeycomb WITH the honey altogether?
I'll have to look that up. One of the best trees we have for honey are our black locust.
We put a frame in without foundation, in the hopes that they will fill it with honey and we can enjoy it with the wax. Saw some nectar in it today during our inspection! 💗
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Tax, but not least!
A cuddle puddle with a splash...lol💞
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The window is hardware cloth on the inside, but has a hinged door that I can close to keep the wind out/warmth in during the winter, so that part....still clad so I can insulate it, I think... and so when it's open, the inside side is weather protected.... would a sheet and a half be enough?
If you are willing to have the window clad with double doors (think like window shutters) and latching in the middle - you could do it with one sheet....but, of course, you would need a bit more 2x2s for this
 
I was thinking so the window can be open all summer, so the inside is exposed to the weather and to keep the insulation from being exposed, but as a mite/mice haven I'm re thinking that. I think I want the bird hatch to open inward, so can latch to the inside of the big door.

The window....as a Dutch door, I would still have to double frame it so I can close it in the winter, yet leave it open at night in the summer.

Bracing....If I don't clad the inside and use something thinner than the OSB to lighten the weight, will it still warp? What would be sturdy enough that a predator can't simply lean against it and bust through?
I was going to go with 2 x 4s on edge, making the door the depth of the 4 (3.5 inches), then in taking measurements, realized the door stop is too shallow and I really don't want to move it, too. I also don't want to angle cut the corners....Will see what price differences there are between the x2s and x4s. That's also going to affect screw length.... hmmmm...


What about caulk/sealant? Long term weather resistant, not going to harm the birds.... if I have to let it cure for a week to be safe, I'll do that in favor of being weather safe.
Will 2X3s fit the door depth? 2x2s can warp so easily (ask me how I know) especially with a somewhat heavy door. Not a big difference in price between 2x3s and 2x4s here, about 50 cents per 8 footer - but cutting/ripping a 2x4 in half is NOT a good option, either - and it still makes it kind of thin (only a hair bigger than 2x2s) once ripped - IF you are able to rip them straight.

I would strongly suggest angled corners (45 degrees) instead of butting the framing if you are able. I do understand, though, if you only have a hand held circular saw it is near impossible to make an accurae cut, so it diesn't work (again, ask me how I know!)
 
I was going to go with 2 x 4s on edge, making the door the depth of the 4 (3.5 inches), then in taking measurements, realized the door stop is too shallow and I really don't want to move it, too. I also don't want to angle cut the corners....Will see what price differences there are between the x2s and x4s. That's also going to affect screw length.... hmmmm...


What about caulk/sealant? Long term weather resistant, not going to harm the birds.... if I have to let it cure for a week to be safe, I'll do that in favor of being weather safe.

I would not make it the depth of the x4 but lay the 2x4 on it’s flat - I used 3/8” OSB and 1.5” wood deck screws - they have a coating which helps protect against rust.

I forgot to take photos - been a rough few days here - finished hay Sunday and I have been really sore and exhausted, struggling with work. I hope to have an early night tonight.

But here is one of the doors I made for inside - you can easily make it for external use - paint it to keep it weather proof.

In this case I sandwiched chicken mesh between two sheets of 3/8” plywood.

I started by cutting the openings for the top and bottom since this was an inside door I made the openings as large as I could and keep the structural strength of the sheet of plywood.

You could easily use 2x2s to frame out the door. And any openings. You could even use fibreglass panels as a window. I would use plywood front and back even with the 2x2s if you can swing it. I don’t know what the cost of wood products are your way but here is quite expensive.

To fasten the two sides together I used clamps to keep them tight while I used the wood screws I put them alternating on both sides to hold as the door is thinner and I didn’t use 2x4 or 2x2 framing.

You can use a good wood glue (I use gorilla glue brand) to fasten the framing to the plywood along with the wood screws. I didn’t use wood glue on this door due to the wire between the two sides.

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Remember to measure twice and cut once!
 

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