Fluffy Butt Acres: Stories of our flock

[BY Bob]

Isabel eyes, seem okay. If you see something let me know. Bits collect on the rims, that changes all the time.
View attachment 4179711
View attachment 4179712
View attachment 4179713

Her friend Picaboo, my impression is she always comes around when anything is happening with Isabel or whenever she is separated, Picaboo will go hang with her. So she was right here when I took these pics
View attachment 4179714
View attachment 4179718

They look fine to me.

 

[BY Bob]

She means business!

Always

 

[featherhead007]

They haven't started laying yet but they will be decent layers. Phyllis laid 3 to 5 eggs a week.

I miss Phyllis.

 

[featherhead007]

I think I need a chicken to watch TV with...

They make great company. But I hope you like Animal Planet!

 

[bgmathteach]

Meet Ozzy! Been trying to decide on a name for this guy.
View attachment 4180346

How old is Ozzy? Are you sure it is a 'he'? I would love to see a better pic of side (so can view saddle/tail feathers better.)

REgardless, as @RoyalChick said: Pretty Chicken

 

[Ikslo]

How old is Ozzy? Are you sure it is a 'he'? I would love to see a better pic of side (so can view saddle/tail feathers better.)

REgardless, as @RoyalChick said: Pretty Chicken

No it’s totally a she. Named Ozzy. Deal with it.

 

[ChicoryBlue]

I was thinking so the window can be open all summer, so the inside is exposed to the weather and to keep the insulation from being exposed, but as a mite/mice haven I'm re thinking that. I think I want the bird hatch to open inward, so can latch to the inside of the big door.

The window....as a Dutch door, I would still have to double frame it so I can close it in the winter, yet leave it open at night in the summer.

Bracing....If I don't clad the inside and use something thinner than the OSB to lighten the weight, will it still warp? What would be sturdy enough that a predator can't simply lean against it and bust through?

Been thinking on this while in town all day on errands and appointments. How beefy is your coop building to begin with? Maybe you should try to match it with more beefy lumber for a sturdy door than 2x2’s, which are like a porch screen door in strength essentially, not really made for security. Strength in wood is directly related to how thick it is in each direction.

Maybe best is to put a window and a pop door between real studs elsewhere. Is that a possibility?

Now DH and I are debating screws & washers holding HC in thin plywood but with a wood backing, versus bolts & washers & nuts right into plain plywood, but he’s envisioning at least 1/2” and preferably 5/8” plywood, which is very stiff and less likely to bend/warp. He says you could make a solid door just of thick plywood, and it would be heavy but if you used serious hinges and latches it would work well. And that no holes in it would be best for predator protection.
Will think more on this.

 

[Mother of Chaos]

To me, muggy means being stuck in a shower room with no escape, full of steam and heat. But worse, because the sun is beating down.

Haha, this one got a lot of wow reactions.

For context, I passed out at my desk in Houston Texas after recess waaaaay back in third grade from heat exhaustion. Woke up in the nurse's office covered in wet towels and ice packs. No a/c in schools back in the day. (1962-3)

I've never been able to tolerate heat, especially humid heat, which is why I live in the mountains now. I have no shame in announcing that I'm a weenie!

 

[BY Bob]

That is a very purposeful walk - more like a march! Is she doing inspections?

Places to be, things to do.

 

[bgmathteach]

How long does it take for the fumes to go? And how often do you have to recoat?

I got 5 8foot 2x2 and 2 sheets 4x8 plywood 3/8 inch thick, and screws to assemble. Haven't gotten other hardware or sealant...the lumber yard/hardware store closed 5 min after I placed the order, so I figured get stuff cut and assembled tomorrow, then start sealing stuff, then attach hardware.

I put 3-5 coats (depending on if you brush or spray. Brushing is cheaper (spray cost lots more$), and thicker. ) It depends on temps and humidity, but 24 (?+ if humid or cooler) hours between coats. Less time after first coat as that gets absorbed quickly. I would, as a precaution, do a 4th brush coat on the edges of the plywood, as that is so thin that it is hard to get a good 'bead' on without making drips - and you definitely want that protected so the plywood doesn't start to warp and peel apart (layers wise).

As far as how often...as long as it isn't touching the ground directly (which your door shouldn't be), then once every 4-5 or so years (or longer - I have a mobile broody hut that needs it now - and is ...hmmm... 7 or 8 years old, maybe 9??? Probably should have done it last year...but life give you some curve balls!) - with a bit of light sanding prior for good adhesion. This is, of course, assuming good coverage in the first place. I would check it next spring to be sure there aren't any 'weak spots' and do a touch up. if it looks good - you should be fine - barring any smashing it and exposing a spot of wood - in which case, a quick touch up is in order - for a number of years.

As far as cutting, assembling, THEN spar urethaneing......I would put one full coat on everything THEN assemble, so all the cut edges of the wood are treated, then do additional coats...these additional coats can seal the 'gap' between the plywood and 2X2s, too, eliminating the issue around mites (I will intentionally do a 'heavy brush' along the adjoining edge to create a 'bead' of urethane, if you will, on the last coat. It helps to seal out moisture that may get in, and to seal out mites. Mice can still get in if they chew....but given your construction, it shouldn't be an issue with a 1.5" overlap of plywood over 2X2s. Given your extreme cold, I would do plywood on both sides of the door for insulation.

If you are able to find an old storm window...I would be inclined to use that in the door. This would allow for light but no wind in middle temps or in 'it is freezing, we really, really want to stay in the coop today, mom' open 'shutters' but closed window; or open shutters and open window in summer. Or overnight in cold, windy winter, closed window, closed shutters for better insulation/protecting from wind/cold.

All my 2 cents. I am kind of self taught/learned from mistakes. Doesn't mean my strategy is best...or works for every situation....

I definitely agree with @ChicoryBlue regarding corner bracing (or diagonal bracing) of the door. It will work fine for a bit, but eventually will sag and not close properly without some sort of bracing - even with solid plywood overlay. Given the pop door - you could do 1 of 3 things:
1) Corner bracing as @ChicoryBlue mentions, and move the pop door to the middle bottom of the people door. It could then hinge up (if not enough space for it to hinge sideways without issues) and use an eye hook with a spring so it doesn't get knocked down if someone decides to roos on it.

2) Corner bracing, but forgo the bracing in that one lower corner so the pop door 'fits'. Personally, if you go with this option, I would use the left frame-out (when viewing your sketch) as a full upright bottom to middle of people door, with cross-frame at top where pop door 'ends' (this means you would have 3 full uprights on the bottom half of door - far left, far right, and left of pop door)

3) Use a diagonal bracing for the bottom half of door. - again, ging by your sketch....lower left to upper right, that should allow enough space for pop-door on lower right. I know you aren't fond of angle cuts...but doing this with the TOP bracing for the pop door extending all the way over to the diagonal (which means a diagonal cut on one end of that frame-out), then the left upright frame-out of pop door would go bottom of door to that just mentioned piece that would make the top of the pop door frame-out.

Just an FYI: When I first started doing bracing, I didn't have a good saw for cutting 45 degree angles. I used some scrap 2X4 (from a pallet) and cut (after measuring) a roughly 45 degree corner off the end - either end. IT didn't have to be perfect, as the precut top and side of the 2X4 formed the perfect 45 degree angle...my cut just made it a short piece. This can then be screwed right into the corner of your doors as is, with no muss, as it will be perfect! Down side is you only get 2 of those per board (1 each end), but if you have a free pallet - who cares! The rest of the wood can be used for a slightly raised garden bed or something where if you cut to square off the end and it doesn't come out perfect - it doesn't really matter. Also great for using as roosts - again, if the end isn't perfectly square - the chickens don't care!!!

Just note - if you do this, there isn't a huge amount of wood - I would pre-drill the holes with a bit a little smaller than the screw shaft so you don't split the corner piece. Even though these corner braces are quite small - I have found they do make a huge difference in sturdiness of the door long term, and are a relatively easy solution for no way to cut diagonal pieces at 45 degrees accurately.

I hope all this makes sense without drawings to accompany.....