Fluffy Butt Acres: Stories of our flock

[Candiru09]

Marans get the nickname "mareanies" because they tend to boss others around. Mine haven't seemed that mean? Top of the pecking order for sure but they don't like, chase the others for no reason. They aren't super friendly but they will crowd the fence for treats.
Honestly, the majesty marans (barred rock marans cross) are SO soft. Shep, and now Squatch, have the feather shred gene and it makes their feathers kitten-soft. I can usually get a quick pet in when I shine the light at night for Squatch to go to bed, it's our little bedtime ritual.

I have a majesty Maran as well and I agree; They are very soft!
Mine absolutely despises being picked up though so I don't pet her very often. She's rather weird as she won't try to escape being picked up but as soon as you pick her up she struggles with all her might and demands to be put down!

 

[bgmathteach]

Noirans are a hybrid fro Hendrix Genetics

https://layinghens.hendrix-genetics.com/en/contact-us/Distributors/

Not to be confused with any other Hendrix’s

Noirans info

https://layinghens.hendrix-genetics.com/en/our-brands/special-layer-breeds/noirans/

I notice the 'livability' pretty much only goes to 18 months (80 weeks = 1.53 years) - why not let us know how long they live on average??? Taylored to production farms, not backyard operations where they are also somewhat or completely pets, too?. It worries me that they are hybrids with the intention of 'improving layability'

I agree with @RebeccaBoyd , BCMs are very easy going, sweet, heavy birds. The Cuckoo Marans are a bit less sweet (? a bit more 'saucy?), but I have liked them as well. BUT my BRs are even keeled, really good foragers, and also don't take #$%@...but again, aren't bullies, either.

BCMs are heavier than Cuckoo, also...heavier than production BR, but have a bit smaller frame than the heritage BR.

i do have a bit of a concern with @featherhead007 getting BCMs, though. Given they are heavier, they would have trouble getting high up into his loft roosts...he might need to put up a couple of lower roosts with either a ramp or 'stepping roosts' where they could systematically hop higher and higher to get up off the floor (they shouldn't roost too high, though - they are heavy and if too far off the ground, it will be very hard on their legs landing from a significant height.

That said - Alex, if you are able to accommodate the roosting, they are very pleasant birds

 

[RoyalChick]

I am still pondering the cat tree for chickens. I am thinking of anchoring a 4x4 vertically about 6” in front of the big 6x6 that you can see here where Mr. Chips is standing. I have a couple of good length 4x4s in my scrap lumber collection.
Then I could do branches out on either side using 2x4s (have plenty of those too).
There are a few issues one of which is my realization that my flyers will use it as a launching pad to go up to the rafters. And for those I would have to block access into my storage area which is behind that shingle wall. Not impossible but awkward to access.
In the foreground of that picture I can arrange some tree stumps and I can forage in the woods for some good sized branches as well.

 

[ChicoryBlue]

I am still pondering the cat tree for chickens. I am thinking of anchoring a 4x4 vertically about 6” in front of the big 6x6 that you can see here where Mr. Chips is standing. I have a couple of good length 4x4s in my scrap lumber collection.
Then I could do branches out on either side using 2x4s (have plenty of those too).
There are a few issues one of which is my realization that my flyers will use it as a launching pad to go up to the rafters. And for those I would have to block access into my storage area which is behind that shingle wall. Not impossible but awkward to access.
In the foreground if that picture I can arrange some tree stumps and I can forage in the woods for some good sized branches as well.

View attachment 4244897

Thinking about this more, but first thoughts - why not put the cat tree post further than 6” away from the other post (and those blocks at the base) so that a full grown chicken can pass between them so the post itself becomes a good dodge item. Like 10”?

There’s a reason you don’t want to use that actual weight-bearing support post, right? You want something you can change out and remove?

Crazy idea - you could attach perches directly from the big post to a board on the shingle wall, maybe even build out cantilevered perches from that.

You could tack inch aviary netting up on the roof rafters and over the hooman wall, that would keep the airflow going. Knotted netting (not flimsy bird netting) is easy to see, important feature with whatever you use.

 

[featherhead007]

Noirans are a hybrid fro Hendrix Genetics

https://layinghens.hendrix-genetics.com/en/contact-us/Distributors/

Not to be confused with any other Hendrix’s

Noirans info

https://layinghens.hendrix-genetics.com/en/our-brands/special-layer-breeds/noirans/

Not to be confused with Jimmy Hendrix either I suppose ?

 

[bgmathteach]

There are a few issues one of which is my realization that my flyers will use it as a launching pad to go up to the rafters. And for those I would have to block access into my storage area which is behind that shingle wall. Not impossible but awkward to access.

You could tack inch aviary netting up on the roof rafters and over the hooman wall,

I really like this idea !!!!!- it would still give plenty of airflow, and would only serve to restrict their access to the rafters - which you don't really want them to go there anyways. A large enough Aviary netting to tack up across the entirity of the chicken palace on the underside of the rafters....or, tack it to the wall just under the rafters at that wall...out to the next rafter, then up to the roof - just to keep them out of that particular set of rafters so they can't get into the people/servant quarters.

 

[RoyalChick]

Thinking about this more, but first thoughts - why not put the cat tree post further than 6” away from the other post (and those blocks at the base) so that a full grown chicken can pass between them so the post itself becomes a good dodge item. Like 10”?

There’s a reason you don’t want to use that actual weight-bearing support post, right? You want something you can change out and remove?

Crazy idea - you could attach perches directly from the big post to a board on the shingle wall, maybe even build out cantilevered perches from that.
View attachment 4244914

You could tack inch aviary netting up on the roof rafters and over the hooman wall, that would keep the airflow going. Knotted netting (not flimsy bird netting) is easy to see, important feature with whatever you use.

The reason not to attach branches to the structural vertical is that they would then only be 6” from the hardware cloth wall and I felt like they would be less likely to fly up to it with less space and certainly would find it hard to get up if they happened to be in the wall side.
One of the issues I am wrestling with is access to that overhang under the shingle wall. It is one of the few areas in the Chicken Palace that is tough for me to get to. One of the few design choices I regret.
I need to be able to get there without too much dismantling.
If a chicken went there to die for example. Or, as actually happened, the rats used it as they access to the cavity under the storage room floor.
With the rats I hung dog panels off that vertical beam so the chickens couldn’t get to the area and that is where I tried trapping and baiting the rats (neither of which worked of course!).
The reason for the 6” was to make a small gap that a small hen/pullet could fit through but a big roo couldn’t. I can make it more but 10” would be big enough for anyone. The supports between the structural vertical and the cat tree vertical would be bits of 2x4 and would be like little perches for little pullets/hens to be safe on.

 

[ChicoryBlue]

The reason not to attach branches to the structural vertical is that they would then only be 6” from the hardware cloth wall and I felt like they would be less likely to fly up to it with less space and certainly would find it hard to get up if they happened to be in the wall side.
One of the issues I am wrestling with is access to that overhang under the shingle wall. It is one of the few areas in the Chicken Palace that is tough for me to get to. One of the few design choices I regret.
I need to be able to get there without too much dismantling.
If a chicken went there to die for example. Or, as actually happened, the rats used it as they access to the cavity under the storage room floor.
With the rats I hung dog panels off that vertical beam so the chickens couldn’t get to the area and that is where I tried trapping and baiting the rats (neither of which worked of course!).
The reason for the 6” was to make a small gap that a small hen/pullet could fit through but a big roo couldn’t. I can make it more but 10” would be big enough for anyone. The supports between the structural vertical and the cat tree vertical would be bits of 2x4 and would be like little perches for little pullets/hens to be safe on.

Understood. I also like things I can take apart easily enough, you never know!

I can’t think of a design choice rats wouldn’t be able to overcome if it involves dirt / real ground, or even wood they can chew. Even if you permanently closed that area off or built it that way, then you’d be doing demolition to get to it. Could you put HC panels under there that prevents a chicken getting very far in at least?

I think a larger hen needs escape room too, but I agree 10” is too large. I found 6” too narrow for Buckeyes and Orpington shoulders, even as young hens. 8” might be better.

But I thought the idea was to create places they could go that inhibited mounting, not necessarily places a roo can’t fit by himself?

 

[Ponypoor]

Not to be confused with Jimmy Hendrix either I suppose ?

Yep them there other Hendrix

 

[Ponypoor]

I am still pondering the cat tree for chickens. I am thinking of anchoring a 4x4 vertically about 6” in front of the big 6x6 that you can see here where Mr. Chips is standing. I have a couple of good length 4x4s in my scrap lumber collection.
Then I could do branches out on either side using 2x4s (have plenty of those too).
There are a few issues one of which is my realization that my flyers will use it as a launching pad to go up to the rafters. And for those I would have to block access into my storage area which is behind that shingle wall. Not impossible but awkward to access.
In the foreground of that picture I can arrange some tree stumps and I can forage in the woods for some good sized branches as well.

View attachment 4244897

Ooooo yep forgot about the rafters!