Very interesting ! Thank you for the discussion.
Since you use eos, not sure if you can find it easily in the US, I use ravintsara (the cineol chemotype of cinnamonum camphora) for respiratory issues.

I would add Vitamin K, the antidote to all anticoagulant rodent poisons (which are the only type used here). Comes in useful if a hen eats a poisoned mouse !

I have two possibly "sensitive" questions. I'm not asking for opinions on whether it's a good thing or not as it would lead us into an endless debate 😊. I would however be very interested and grateful if some of you have scientifically valid information.

First, as you probably know in my country it's impossible to have antibiotics for animals at home. The vet will only prescribe the exact number of pills you need for the animal you brought. Now, I'm fully aware no other substances have the same antibacterial effects as antibiotics and I am not in the least discussing this. My question is whether any of you have scientific information on products that could be interesting to use for their antibacterial action when you don't have antibiotics, even if they are far less efficient? I use oregano essential oil in some specific cases but it's very strong and I would certainly not give it to a very sick chicken, or to a chick.

(How do people handle this in my country? Well either they go to the vet or they use natural mixture of products available commercially. This is also true for AG operations, where the use of antibiotics is a last resort for layers, and forbidden for meat poultry. )

My second question is in regard to CBD. We were very late approving it's use for medical reasons compared to some of the US states, just last year. I understand that for humans, it's also used as a confort treatment for anxiety. Do any of you know if this is also the case for animals, and more especially for our chickens, or has it's use only been validated as a pain killer ?

I would find it very useful to have something that could help the chickens with stress as it has such a serious impact on their health.

Thank you all and hope you have a great Monday !
Bob's vet put me on to colloidal silver. I thought it was a lot of nonsense but then did some research and there is a fair bit of evidence for it as both anti-bacterial and anti-viral.
This is just one article - when I looked into it I found many others.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7167925/

Surface infections are usually reasonably easy to treat without drugs. Dry, air, sun and removing debris are all effective. That can be true even for quite serious infections if they are localized and not spread around the body.
Same is true for abscesses - open them and get out the gunk and make sure they fill in from the base and not close over - in mammals that is usually all easy because the pus is liquid and drains out on its own or with the aid of a small strip of gauze. It is much harder in chickens because the pus is solid - that is what bumble foot is - an abscess in the foot.

Once an infection is established in the blood stream or in an internal organ that you cannot access it is down to antibiotics or luck.

The only other example I can think of are infections in the intestines. Some of those can be treated by helping good bacteria crowd out the bad ones. That is what all the yoghurt/kefir/ACV stuff is all about.

There is also a thread on BYC about using Chinese Skullcap (a herb) as an anti-viral - again there seems to be a fair bit of data on it in a range of viruses including Marek's. Dosing is hard to understand though.
 
I was thinking the exact same thing - the cost of a protracted war against rats may not be as economical as paying for dry ice shipping.

So far, after the first rat infestation I have got away with getting rid of the junk they were nesting in. The ones I destroyed I managed to get with the RatZapper by leaving it out and with bait for several days and then switching it on for a couple of nights and then moving it and doing the same thing.
I also used my cameras to figure where they were coming and going.
Noted this Saturday, and was furious. They are everywhere!

I hope they get tangled in that twine and throttle themselves!
image.jpg
 
Hello! Back again after a bit of vacation. The neighbor took care of the chickens and I came home to healthy happy chooks. Except Eenie seems to be going broody! Not sure what to do about it since this is my first time. The neighbor was diligent in picking up eggs so she has nothing to hatch. I wouldn't mind her hatching a few, but all 3 girls share one box. They won't touch the other 2 boxes. I have one girl laying brown eggs and thought maybe I can gather just the others and leave the brown for her to hatch. Could that work? It's that or try to break the broodiness I guess. But how can I get the other girls to use those other boxes?
Haha, I came back from vacation a bit less than a week ago, and Willow also went broody. First time having a broody chicken aswell! We are in this together!!
Maybe to get the others to use the other nest boxes put fake eggs or golf balls in the boxes.
 
Very interesting ! Thank you for the discussion.
Since you use eos, not sure if you can find it easily in the US, I use ravintsara (the cineol chemotype of cinnamonum camphora) for respiratory issues.

I would add Vitamin K, the antidote to all anticoagulant rodent poisons (which are the only type used here). Comes in useful if a hen eats a poisoned mouse !

I have two possibly "sensitive" questions. I'm not asking for opinions on whether it's a good thing or not as it would lead us into an endless debate 😊. I would however be very interested and grateful if some of you have scientifically valid information.

First, as you probably know in my country it's impossible to have antibiotics for animals at home. The vet will only prescribe the exact number of pills you need for the animal you brought. Now, I'm fully aware no other substances have the same antibacterial effects as antibiotics and I am not in the least discussing this. My question is whether any of you have scientific information on products that could be interesting to use for their antibacterial action when you don't have antibiotics, even if they are far less efficient? I use oregano essential oil in some specific cases but it's very strong and I would certainly not give it to a very sick chicken, or to a chick.

(How do people handle this in my country? Well either they go to the vet or they use natural mixture of products available commercially. This is also true for AG operations, where the use of antibiotics is a last resort for layers, and forbidden for meat poultry. )

My second question is in regard to CBD. We were very late approving it's use for medical reasons compared to some of the US states, just last year. I understand that for humans, it's also used as a confort treatment for anxiety. Do any of you know if this is also the case for animals, and more especially for our chickens, or has it's use only been validated as a pain killer ?

I would find it very useful to have something that could help the chickens with stress as it has such a serious impact on their health.

Thank you all and hope you have a great Monday !
Oh and here hormones and antibiotics are forbidden for use in poultry products.

Which makes me laugh when I see the Ads for Maple Leaf Prime Chicken, selling the point that they don’t use antibiotics, to the consumer.

I wish someone would do up and Advertisement busting statements like that!
 
Put a couple of eggs in the other boxes.

You can try moving her to another more quiet safe area, I have a couple nest boxes for this, and also a huge animal crate. I would move her with a couple of ‘sacrifice’ eggs to see if she will sit on them, then if she does, swap them out for the ones you want to hatch.

If she won’t move then block that box so the others don’t bother her.

Don’t forget to put a mark on the eggs just in case the others gift her some other eggs! Not a problem if you block off the nest access to others. Also make sure to put the eggs in all on the same day so they all hatch the same day.

Good luck!

Thanks for the responses. Now I'm a bit worried I may have 2 broody girls! For a visual aid, here's my set-up.
20230619_095241.jpg

It took me ages to get them to lay in the bottom! They were laying in the high traffic areas by the pop door. We had to lay boards all over the coop and hang the bottom curtain to get them there. As you see, the top boxes are only used by the occasional mouse!
20230619_095257.jpg


But, all 3 have always used the bottom. Now both Eenie (the red one) and Sheba (the black one) are in there! We caught Sheba in there once at night before our trip, but she was out a bit yesterday. Eenie was in when we got home and remains there, though she got up and shuffled around when I lifted the curtain.
20230619_095317.jpg

I suppose I could put a box next to the other on the floor. I have tried putting eggs in the other boxes before and they still ignored them.

If I do block off the nest, how does she got food and water?

I don't really want two sitting eggs. I guess if it doesn't resolve, I'm going to have to try to break one of them. Or would they share? If I left say 6 eggs, would they both raise chicks from a shared nest? Or fight?

I'm unprepared for this. LOL
 

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Haha, I came back from vacation a bit less than a week ago, and Willow also went broody. First time having a broody chicken aswell! We are in this together!!
Maybe to get the others to use the other nest boxes put fake eggs or golf balls in the boxes.
😆 I have had them in since day one and tried real eggs too. Nothing.
 
I don't really want two sitting eggs. I guess if it doesn't resolve, I'm going to have to try to break one of them. Or would they share? If I left say 6 eggs, would they both raise chicks from a shared nest? Or fight?
In my experience, it really depends on the hens. I have 2 DC that co-brood, and @Ponypoor 's silkies co-brood. However, I have had others that, when the chicks first hatch, will attack another's chicks if they get too close to 'her chicks'.
 

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